4 door model with 4.3l engine. I bought the vehicle and drove it home. Started at least 6 times the day I got it. 3 Days later, I try to start it and it turns over fine but does not start. I am going through basic stuff. Looking around engine. See nothing out of place. I get Carb Cleaner, it will start and runs good until cleaner is burned off. I press the valve for the fuel pressure and it gives a squirt. I go reprime, cannot hear the pump due to the dinging from the dash (Waiting on fiancee to get here right now). Prime and I get squirts from the test valve so fuel is getting there. This is the model where I believe the injectors are in the air manifold? So I cannot easily reach them to test with an ohm meter. I do have some tools but not an auto mechanic. Any tips on what I should check or look for? Full time college student so I cannot afford to go nickle and diming myself at this point. Just need it to run. Lol. Like everyone does who has a car.
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In the under hood fuse / relay box there is a yellow 20 amp fuel pump fuse - there is also a fuel pump relay (owners manual very helpful) .. In a QUIET environment - get in blazer and shut door - turn key on and let ding dong stop - now *temporarily* turn key to the start position and let go - listen carefully - you should hear the fuel pump relay click off in 2 seconds .. IF relay is operational - â–ªï¸replace in tank fuel pump module and fuel filter!!â–ªï¸
(*Each time* key is turned to start then released - you should hear relay click off!)
Thanks pushrod. Looks like I will have to drop the tank. I hear no usual hums but the relay clicks are there (somewhere around the glovebox). Fun times ahead...lol. I am going to try a jumper connection before undertaking that though. Just to be sure.
Pushrod... still a no go. Replaced pump. Pressure is back. Replaced battery, distributor, and rotor as a preventative measure.Starts but then it dies withing a few seconds. Here is a vid: https://youtu.be/Gtl5beZak9Q
The *security system* is turning off injector pulse - that’s why it is starting then dying after a few seconds .. Try the spare key.
Engine will not *continue* to run with security light on!
Ehhh... Spare what? lol. Those are the only keys I have. Guess I will try looking up the bypass. Ran across something a few days ago but did not pay attention to it.
Usually not a 12 volt test light - turn key on and TEST EACH AND EVERY FUSE YOU CAN FIND on the vehicle - don’t care if it says it for an ejection seat - TEST IT!
Take a look at all the possibilities of a blown fuse - use the link to the diagram below:
https://www.autogenius.info/chevrolet-s-10-1999-fuse-box-diagram/
This is also for the 2000 Blazer .. TEST em all just to be sure.
Good luck!
Next step is fuel pressure testing - parts store will rent a test gauge - you’ll get money back when returned .. Shrader valve near distributor is where gauge connects .. We’re more interested in the systems ability to HOLD pressure after key is turned off.
Should have 55 to 60 psi while cranking - should not drop more that 10 psi when key is turned off... Got to have those numbers before continuing..
I did repair work / troubleshooting for an electrical company that had a fleet of these vehicles - S-10 trucks but still same fuel systems .. I’ve had a bit of experience here.
I don't know. Maybe the truck gave up but I hooked up the fuel pressure gauge. Went to crank and it starts. It stayed started and no roughness. I step on the gas and, screw me.... the engine actually reved. So, I don't know what happened but it is running again. BTW, pressure on prime was 61. at crank was around 57 and stayed around there while running.
Yeah it is. I have been driving it around this morning hoping nothing goes out but it seems to stay decent so far. Now to fix that rattling shield for the gas tank. Thanks again for your help Pushrod.
*Do not turn key off while testing* - simply turn to start then release to check relay operation.
Thanks pushrod. Looks like I will have to drop the tank. I hear no usual hums but the relay clicks are there (somewhere around the glovebox). Fun times ahead...lol. I am going to try a jumper connection before undertaking that though. Just to be sure.
Fuel pump failures are common. Good luck!
Pushrod... still a no go. Replaced pump. Pressure is back. Replaced battery, distributor, and rotor as a preventative measure.Starts but then it dies withing a few seconds. Here is a vid: https://youtu.be/Gtl5beZak9Q
The *security system* is turning off injector pulse - that’s why it is starting then dying after a few seconds .. Try the spare key. Engine will not *continue* to run with security light on!
Ehhh... Spare what? lol. Those are the only keys I have. Guess I will try looking up the bypass. Ran across something a few days ago but did not pay attention to it.
Usually not a 12 volt test light - turn key on and TEST EACH AND EVERY FUSE YOU CAN FIND on the vehicle - don’t care if it says it for an ejection seat - TEST IT!
(Stupid predictive text) .. USING A 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksrsXwwukFc
OK. I got a test light. Going out and trying that.
Take a look at all the possibilities of a blown fuse - use the link to the diagram below: https://www.autogenius.info/chevrolet-s-10-1999-fuse-box-diagram/ This is also for the 2000 Blazer .. TEST em all just to be sure. Good luck!
All fuses are good. Checked injectors with the light and there is power and the others have pulse. If thats so, wouldn't the passlock not allow pulse?
The truck ran a little longer. Start to smooth idle for a sec or 2, then rough kinda dying to smooth to rough dying to smooth to rough then off.
Next step is fuel pressure testing - parts store will rent a test gauge - you’ll get money back when returned .. Shrader valve near distributor is where gauge connects .. We’re more interested in the systems ability to HOLD pressure after key is turned off. Should have 55 to 60 psi while cranking - should not drop more that 10 psi when key is turned off... Got to have those numbers before continuing..
Be SURE the big air tube from air cleaner to intake plenum has NO leaks and is securely fastened at both ends.
Ok. Trying to find a way up there now.
I did repair work / troubleshooting for an electrical company that had a fleet of these vehicles - S-10 trucks but still same fuel systems .. I’ve had a bit of experience here.
Sweet. Thank you for your help in this. I really appreciate it.
✔ï¸
I don't know. Maybe the truck gave up but I hooked up the fuel pressure gauge. Went to crank and it starts. It stayed started and no roughness. I step on the gas and, screw me.... the engine actually reved. So, I don't know what happened but it is running again. BTW, pressure on prime was 61. at crank was around 57 and stayed around there while running.
Stayed at 57 - 58 when key off for 10 minutes. Then I just wrapped it up.
Just curious - Is security light still on now while engine is runnng?
yup. just as solid as before.
Well it is fabulous the vehicle is operational once again .. However is is VERY unusual for one to fix itself.. Happy motoring?
Yeah it is. I have been driving it around this morning hoping nothing goes out but it seems to stay decent so far. Now to fix that rattling shield for the gas tank. Thanks again for your help Pushrod.