why does my buick just crank and when I let off key it backfires?
What is your question?
it is actually a 87 skylark. was running ok really hard to start but ran fine. now all of a sudden it just cranks over and wont fire but when I let off the key it back fires really loud. All parts I have replaced since I bought it is fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and o2 sensor. it is spraying fuel like it should just doesn't want to start. any help asap would be greatly appreciated need to have it running by sunday, 2/2/14 if possible. thank you.
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With what you mentioned it could be an ignition switch issue. You say when you let the key go back to run after being in start, it sounds as if the ignition switch is not powering the ignition , or coil, etc, during the start mode, and as you release the key to run it will fire, causing the back fire, which could have to do with the timing of the ignition as well.
ok I had asked a couple others too, not mechanics, and one said timing and another said the ignition control module. could you possibly give me an idea where the module is so I can test it.
And yeah as soon as I let off the key it backfires sounds like a shotgun going off.
That's what a good backfire sounds like. If you don't have the equipment to test the ignition module, I have testers and the last one cost $3,000 with the connectors. You sound as if your ready to go and fix this thing and I'm not sure you are asking the right people for answers, and your going to jump off the deep end. How much knowledge do you really have in electrical and electronics.
I understand your point, and yes I went through those days as well, and never dreamed I would end up being a mechanic, you see it hate to get dirty, lucky me. The module is, I believe it's been awhile on those, on the back side of the engine, and the coils are attached to it, be careful when removing it because if it's the one I'm thinking it is, the crankshaft position sensor is attached to the underside and sticks into a hole through the block. Check the power wire going to it to ensure the battery voltage is there during start and run positions. If it's to be tested you need someplace that has an ignition module tester.
kk ty. one other thing just thought of. would my alternator have anything to do with this, when the car is running the gauge reads like 15-16 it is in the red on the gauge and the volts light is on. just asking cause u mentioned voltage.
That's pretty high, if you were close I would show you how to change the voltage regulator. It's in the alternator, and will ruin your battery and could have caused some of your damage if you have been driving it this way for some period of time. Let me know if you have some more questions, I don't mind until I go the bed, and will be around some tomorrow. I get Emails on my phone as well.
That exactly right ,I. Worked on a lot of those cars you got rotate that module left and right real easy while working the crank sensor out,
Those bolts for coil packs are 5.5 millimeter and 3 = 12 mm holding the module on ,they were a real b---ch to change on the lift...
U gotta to get it from the bottom or put car in neutral and take/dog bone front motor mount out
And pull and chain motor forwards.... I still have the tool that goes in the mount and u crank motor forward with impact gun.
ok I had asked a couple others too, not mechanics, and one said timing and another said the ignition control module. could you possibly give me an idea where the module is so I can test it. And yeah as soon as I let off the key it backfires sounds like a shotgun going off.
That's what a good backfire sounds like. If you don't have the equipment to test the ignition module, I have testers and the last one cost $3,000 with the connectors. You sound as if your ready to go and fix this thing and I'm not sure you are asking the right people for answers, and your going to jump off the deep end. How much knowledge do you really have in electrical and electronics.
not ready to fix anything yet just wondering because I don't have anyway to get it anywhere so was wondering if there was anyway to test at home. just ready to bring it to the junk yard to be honest but my fiancé needs it so cant do that. the only reason I asked the two ppl is because they use them motors all the time in their race cars and figured they needed the same electrical parts in the race car that my street car needs so I thought they would know.
I understand your point, and yes I went through those days as well, and never dreamed I would end up being a mechanic, you see it hate to get dirty, lucky me. The module is, I believe it's been awhile on those, on the back side of the engine, and the coils are attached to it, be careful when removing it because if it's the one I'm thinking it is, the crankshaft position sensor is attached to the underside and sticks into a hole through the block. Check the power wire going to it to ensure the battery voltage is there during start and run positions. If it's to be tested you need someplace that has an ignition module tester.
kk ty. one other thing just thought of. would my alternator have anything to do with this, when the car is running the gauge reads like 15-16 it is in the red on the gauge and the volts light is on. just asking cause u mentioned voltage.
That's pretty high, if you were close I would show you how to change the voltage regulator. It's in the alternator, and will ruin your battery and could have caused some of your damage if you have been driving it this way for some period of time. Let me know if you have some more questions, I don't mind until I go the bed, and will be around some tomorrow. I get Emails on my phone as well.