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Q: my car is overheating on 2006 Dodge Magnum

i replaced the water pump and my car is still overheating. the symptons are as follows: checked the oil, there seems be no coolant mixed in, heater blows cold air, bled the system to remove air but air continues to reapear and car overheats at iddle.
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I am also having trouble with a Magnum with the 2.7 engine. No sign of a head gasket problem. The car runs splendidly after the air is bled from the cooling system. But the first time it is shut off and allowed to cool, air gets back in and the coolant level in the bottle does not drop. There is no leak and the system holds pressure, but it draws air instead of pulling coolant in from the bottle. It's a pain to bleed the system every single morning and afternoon. What is there in the cooling system that could hold water and hold pressure, but not hold the vacuum as the system cools? I have eliminated the outlet as the problem, but don't know where to look next.
Proper Cooling System Bleeding is imperative. Cooling system fill procedure is critical to overall cooling system performance. Close radiator draincock. Hand tighten only. Install engine block drain plugs, if removed. Coat the threads with Mopar® Thread Sealant with Teflon.
WARNING: When installing drain hose to air bleed valve, route hose away from accessory drive belts, accessory drive pulleys, and electric cooling fan motors.
Attach a 1.5 - 2 m (4 - 6 ft.) long 6.35 mm (1/4 inch.) ID clear hose to bleeder fitting
Bleed Valve Location (2.7L): Located on the water outlet connector at the front of engine . Route hose away from the accessory drive belt, drive pulleys and electric cooling fan. Place the other end of hose into a clean container. The hose will prevent coolant from contacting the accessory drive belt when bleeding the system during the refilling operation.
NOTE: It is imperative that the cooling system air bleed valve be opened before any coolant is added to the cooling system. Failure to open the bleed valve first will result in an incomplete fill of the system.
Attach Tool 8195 , Filling Aid Funnel to pressure bottle filler neck. (The funnel is a Basic funnel with a separator in the down spout. You can make a separator using a piece of plastic). Using hose pinch-off pliers, pinch overflow hose that connects between the two chambers of the coolant bottle . Open bleed fitting. CAUTION: Do not mix coolants. If coolant is used other than specified, a reduction in corrosion protection will occur.
Pour the antifreeze mixture into the larger section of Filling Aid Funnel (the smaller section of funnel is to allow air to escape). Slowly fill the cooling system until a steady stream of coolant flows from the hose attached to the bleed valve. Close the bleed valve and continue filling system to the top of the Tool 8195 , Filling Aid Funnel. Remove pinch-off pliers from overflow hose. Allow the coolant in Filling Funnel to drain into overflow chamber of the pressure bottle. Remove Tool 8195 , Filling Aid Funnel. Install cap on coolant pressure bottle. Remove hose from bleed valve. Start engine and run at 1500 - 2000 RPM for 30 minutes. NOTE: The engine cooling system will push any remaining air into the coolant bottle within about an hour of normal driving. As a result, a drop in coolant level in the pressure bottle may occur. If the engine cooling system overheats and pushes coolant into the overflow side of the coolant bottle, this coolant will be sucked back into the cooling system ONLY IF THE PRESSURE CAP IS LEFT ON THE BOTTLE. Removing the pressure cap breaks the vacuum path between the two bottle sections and the coolant will not return to cooling system. Shut off engine allow it to cool down for 30 minutes. This permits coolant to be drawn into the pressure chamber. With engine COLD, observe coolant level in pressure chamber. Coolant level should be within MIN and MAX marks. Adjust coolant level as necessary.
my 2006 dodge magnum has been overheating. thermostat, sensor unit for fan, housing unit has all been replaced. sometimes it still gets hot. the water in the reserve stays almost full most of the time, even after it sets all night. had to replace radiator cap few weeks ago, it wasn't holdong good. the shop gave me a 20lb cap. which i just replaced it to a 18lb. HELP, WHY IS IT STILL HOT. SPARK PLUGS HAVE BEEN CKECKED ALSO.
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Roy is right about doing a cylinder leakage test to look for a blown head gasket. A simple test that is pretty accurate to verify a blown head gasket is a chemical test called a "block test". If fluid stays blue all is OK if chemical turns yellow carbon monoxide is present in the cooling system/head gasket is bad.
I'm afraid you may have a blown head gasket. Is the check engine light on? Have you pulled any spark plugs to see if they are wet or smell like coolant?
the mechanic said he pulled spark plug #2 on drivers side and had a sweet smell of coolant. but we worked on the car and pulled all the plugs on the driver side and didnt find anything after the car overheated.

the check engine light is not on.
a cylinder leak down test will confirm a blown head gasket. a shop can do that for you and then move on. did you change the thermostat??

i havent changed the thermostat yet. how much does a cylinder leak down test usually?
check our shop locator on this site. i am from harrisburg, pa. sorry. would love to help you.

I have a 2006 Dodge Charger 3.5 L it over heats after I drive it about an 1. I have changed the radiator, water pump, thermostat and housing ,reservoir, coolant sensor and it still runs hot and no check engine light comes on.
Chan40 did you find a solution?? We have changed radiator, thermostat, coolant cap, waterpump, fans run fine, cylinder test was good, bleed the system, pressure test was good...idles all day fine but runs hot when you drive.
Does it have a bleeder port? Did you fill it and bleed it while it was sitting on level ground? Have you replaced the water outlet on the top of the engine with a good one with molded-in gaskets?

The engine is exceptionally sensitive to air trapped in that outlet on top of the engine. If there is air there, steam will form in the bubble and expand to the point where coolant cannot flow. Even a little air can cause that to happen. Then, when the steam quickly cools and contracts, it can create so much suction that water can't flow in from the bottle fast enough, and the seal will be overwhelmed and let more air in--which makes the problem worse next time. Condensing steam creates a big vacuum quickly; some very early steam engines used that to move their pistons. What's more, if the car isn't level when you bleed the system, air can get trapped either in the radiator or at the back of the engine, and that air will wind up on top of the engine causing the same problem again.

Hope that helps.
You can go to any radiator shop and tell them that you suspect that your radiator is bad or you may have a blown head gasket and they usually check it for free
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