if a window is"off track" is the window regulator the probable cause?

thanx for the site info. and also for confirming my thoughts on complete replacement.

the vertical sealing weatherstrip on the window, with the window glass "between" the weather strip. a portion of the weatherstrip is tucked in behind the glass as if someone tried to break in the car and pried between the window and the rubber. a portion of the rubber is not "outside" the glass, but behind it causing a bind. Thanx for your advice

Hi, They call that the window 'channel'. It runs completely around the door glass and down into the door via a metal guide. It is pressed into this guide with ribs on the rubber holding it In place. Sometimes owners use a dab of silicone to hold it in place if it dries out and shrinks. You have to remove the inside door trim panels. Remove the two screws in the armrests hidden by a 3 inch oval plastic bezel. Using a screw driver or a 'fork' like tool to go around the outer edge of the panel and pull gently but firmly on the 20 or so plastic retainers(starting at the bottom) that hold the door panel on. There are a few that run just under the upper door edge behind the door handle and one on the triangle shape in the front upper corner. You may have to purchase new push in clips(amazon/ebay/auto parts) as they have a tendency to break because of brittleness. once you remove the trim panel unplug the window switch wire loom and remove plastic water protection sheet that cover the openings in the metal door frame. If the window guide is visible(attached to the lower glass edge with glue) you will see two gray colored (10mm) bolts holding the lower edge of the glass to the regulator. You may have to pull down on the glass carefully so you can access them or use the drivers switch to move the window down(you may have to plug in the switch again so that the circuit is complete. If the regulator is jammed via the thin braided cable you may have to cut it in order for the window to become movable. Try and access those bolts in some way before you decide to cut the cable. Once cut the regulator is no good. Once you have disconnected the glass from the regulator you can remove the motor and regulator from the door. 3 bolts (10mm) on the motor and 4 on the regulator. Be careful that you secure the glass or have someone hold it up while you do this as it could come down on your hands or break. Remove that belt molding that I described in my other post. With the regulator out and the belt molding removed, the glass can be gently moved up and out toward the outside of door. Lift the glass completely out of the door. Now you can pull the channel out of the metal guide from inside the door and then out from the door window frame. That being said the channel rarely needs to be removed because you can slide the glass all the way down into the door and then bring it back up into the channel correctly. If the rubber is damaged or the glass has ruined it by being opened and closed with it out of track then R/R would be needed. It is a rather expensive piece, about 100 bucks or so. You may find that the window is out of track because the nylon guide clips on the regulator are broken and that is causing the whole problem. Nothing on the regulator assembly is able to be purchased separately. With the exception of the glued on brackets on the edge of the glass and some regulators come separate of the motor. good luck if you decide to attempt the repair, I think I covered everything. I have had a lot of trouble with my 98's Regal's power windows over the years. So much that I have purchased a large bag(200 count) of those nylon push in clips!