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I checked my fuel pressure just with my key on it was about 14psi while turning the key it was about 18 psi. I also put gas in the throttle body and it still did not even act like it want to start. Do u think this could be a timing chain broke or something
No .. 4.3 has all metal timing components and they just don't fail .. Fuel pump pressure was the problem all along .. That ain't near enough pressure! .. Key on test should be around 55 psi .. It needs a new *fuel pump module*.. However 'NOW' you have got the distributor installed with the ignition timing off as it will only go in 'correctly' ONE way and ONE way only and that's why it won't start when adding fuel to the t-body .. IF you know how to copy and paste, watch this 'entire' video:
https://youtu.be/LOR-9JZUUI0
Good luck with it.
Is the furl pump module the same as the fuel pump,? And what would you recommend a Del phi or a cheap one my blazer has 200000 miles on it and whoever had it didn't change nothing was all factory still. I appreciate you taking the time to talk with me I'll keep you posted
The fuel pump module is all you can get for it, that's the fuel guage sender, pump and housing .. Go ahead and get a good quality module as the tank ain't the easiest to R & R .. I've seen these vehicles go 400k without much problems at all.. That's why I own one! .. You really need to check the distributor install again, mighty easy to put it in the engine wrong, got to be 'exactly right' before it's going to run! .. This is an important last step .. Since you've replaced the crank sensor and the distributor- after you get it running, have someone (probably a repair shop) with a real scanner do a *crankshaft position relearn* proceedure so it'll performe like it supposed to... Shouldn't charge much to do that for you, only takes about ten minutes but I'm telling you it does need to be done! .. I been doing this s--t for a 'very long' time! .. Going on 44 years now .. Bout done with it though.. Good luck with it!
Yes I got my new fuel pump in and it still isn't starting its acting completely different than before its got good fuel pressure but my fire is orange it was out of time lines don't match up so I'm not to sure how to get it back in time so if u could tell me step by step that would be great .I love my blazer and my wife says its a money pit and to sell it but I'm not I hope . but anyways thanks a lot Bryan
Remove the # 1 spark plug (front plug on drivers side) .. Put your finger on the plug hole and have a helper 'bump' the starter little by little until you feel compression coming out of that cylinder .. NOW turn crank pulley so timing mark lines up with TDC .. The distributor rotor is supposed to be lined up with the NUMBER ONE plug wire contact INSIDE of the distributor cap .. Don't align it with where the plug wire goes on the cap .. LOOK CLOSLEY under cap to see exactly where the number 1 plug wire gets is fire from.. It actuall on the other side of the cap! .. Now while the engine is still at TDC install distributor so the rotor is pointing to that # 1 contact inside the cap .. Watch that video I posted for more detailed information.. Read back over this page also... Yellow spark isn't acceptable .. This system has the potential to produce 35, 000 volts and that's hot blue spark that will pop like a cap buster when it's right and easily jump 1 inch air gap to a metal ground... After you make sure the distributor is exactly right and it still doesn't start .. Let me know.. We WILL get it running, you can bet on that!! .. BTW, you might as well pick up a new ignition coil, I'm pretty sure you're going to need it before you get it running!
Well pushrod I've done everything you said to do. I got a new coil and the blazer still isn't starting. Well it does start but runs like 2 seconds and dies etc. Its got 58 psi fuel pressure I went ahead and put a new distributor in as well. It didn't change anything at all. Still starts and dies. So now what. Please don't say the spider
3 questions .. Is there a security light in the dash that's on or flashing while cranking engine? .. When engine is turned off after pump pressure is checked, does the pressure on the gauge hold or does it drop off quickly?? .. Do you have *ALL* hoses back in place and tightened securely, 'especially' the big air tube from air filter box to throttle body???
No there is not Any security lights on. All the hoses are back in place and secure. And yes the big one is in place as well. I finally got it started and running. I sprayed gas in the throttle bottle for 2 hoits
I checked my fuel pressure just with my key on it was about 14psi while turning the key it was about 18 psi. I also put gas in the throttle body and it still did not even act like it want to start. Do u think this could be a timing chain broke or something
No .. 4.3 has all metal timing components and they just don't fail .. Fuel pump pressure was the problem all along .. That ain't near enough pressure! .. Key on test should be around 55 psi .. It needs a new *fuel pump module*.. However 'NOW' you have got the distributor installed with the ignition timing off as it will only go in 'correctly' ONE way and ONE way only and that's why it won't start when adding fuel to the t-body .. IF you know how to copy and paste, watch this 'entire' video: https://youtu.be/LOR-9JZUUI0 Good luck with it.
Is the furl pump module the same as the fuel pump,? And what would you recommend a Del phi or a cheap one my blazer has 200000 miles on it and whoever had it didn't change nothing was all factory still. I appreciate you taking the time to talk with me I'll keep you posted
The fuel pump module is all you can get for it, that's the fuel guage sender, pump and housing .. Go ahead and get a good quality module as the tank ain't the easiest to R & R .. I've seen these vehicles go 400k without much problems at all.. That's why I own one! .. You really need to check the distributor install again, mighty easy to put it in the engine wrong, got to be 'exactly right' before it's going to run! .. This is an important last step .. Since you've replaced the crank sensor and the distributor- after you get it running, have someone (probably a repair shop) with a real scanner do a *crankshaft position relearn* proceedure so it'll performe like it supposed to... Shouldn't charge much to do that for you, only takes about ten minutes but I'm telling you it does need to be done! .. I been doing this s--t for a 'very long' time! .. Going on 44 years now .. Bout done with it though.. Good luck with it!
Yes I got my new fuel pump in and it still isn't starting its acting completely different than before its got good fuel pressure but my fire is orange it was out of time lines don't match up so I'm not to sure how to get it back in time so if u could tell me step by step that would be great .I love my blazer and my wife says its a money pit and to sell it but I'm not I hope . but anyways thanks a lot Bryan
Remove the # 1 spark plug (front plug on drivers side) .. Put your finger on the plug hole and have a helper 'bump' the starter little by little until you feel compression coming out of that cylinder .. NOW turn crank pulley so timing mark lines up with TDC .. The distributor rotor is supposed to be lined up with the NUMBER ONE plug wire contact INSIDE of the distributor cap .. Don't align it with where the plug wire goes on the cap .. LOOK CLOSLEY under cap to see exactly where the number 1 plug wire gets is fire from.. It actuall on the other side of the cap! .. Now while the engine is still at TDC install distributor so the rotor is pointing to that # 1 contact inside the cap .. Watch that video I posted for more detailed information.. Read back over this page also... Yellow spark isn't acceptable .. This system has the potential to produce 35, 000 volts and that's hot blue spark that will pop like a cap buster when it's right and easily jump 1 inch air gap to a metal ground... After you make sure the distributor is exactly right and it still doesn't start .. Let me know.. We WILL get it running, you can bet on that!! .. BTW, you might as well pick up a new ignition coil, I'm pretty sure you're going to need it before you get it running!
Well pushrod I've done everything you said to do. I got a new coil and the blazer still isn't starting. Well it does start but runs like 2 seconds and dies etc. Its got 58 psi fuel pressure I went ahead and put a new distributor in as well. It didn't change anything at all. Still starts and dies. So now what. Please don't say the spider
3 questions .. Is there a security light in the dash that's on or flashing while cranking engine? .. When engine is turned off after pump pressure is checked, does the pressure on the gauge hold or does it drop off quickly?? .. Do you have *ALL* hoses back in place and tightened securely, 'especially' the big air tube from air filter box to throttle body???
No there is not Any security lights on. All the hoses are back in place and secure. And yes the big one is in place as well. I finally got it started and running. I sprayed gas in the throttle bottle for 2 hoits