Close
How do i replace the passenger side motor mount?
2006 Buick Terraza

How do I replace the passenger side motor mount?

(2006 Buick Terraza)
When the car brakes or takes off from a stop, we can here a fairly loud crack noise. I have already checked the axles, brake caliper pins, wheel bearings, struts and had it in at a transmission shop because I was afraid that was where it was coming from. The steering wheel also pulls when you stand on the brake in "Drive" and push down on the accelerator, also producing the noise. All tell tail signs of a bad motor mount. Is there anywhere online that would help me with the steps I need to take to do this myself?
1 answer & 6 comments
Popular Answer
on September 30, 2014
Have you visually inspected this mount (have someone in the car , while your watching , while they put it in gear and give it a little gas !!!-WHILE FIRMLY HOLDING THE BRAKE!!!..????? Sounds more like a lower control arm bushing to me , but that's a wild on-line guess.......... NO more parts until properly diagnosed!! ...Save the money and aggravation! Also one other thought , if it's causing steering wheel movement , -?sub-frame bushings?...
Sign in to reply
on September 30, 2014
We have been performing the test you suggested about 50 times now. The sound is very illusive, but very crisp. Definitely passenger side. The engine moves during the test, but not to the point it is smacking the firewall or other components. If you put it in reverse 1-2 MPH and hit the brakes, you hear it a crisp crack and then the same when you put it in drive (1-2 MPH)and hit the brakes. Same results with just holding the break and easing in the pedal on both drive and reverse. I plan to put a jack under it tomorrow and lifting the engine a bit to see if I hear/see anything obvious. I was thinking of unbolting the two top mounts that allow you to roll the engine to see if I hear anything when doing that. I have watched the sub frame and have not seen any movement. The rubber bushings look good, but I will inspect them better tomorrow. Its got about 125000 on it so anything is possible.

The steering wheel pull was noticed while at the transmission shop yesterday. We had it up on the rack with all the wheels off the ground, performing the brake test. We noticed the wheel pull and then the crack. They assured me it was not the transmission. I agree because once on the road it shifts perfect in all gears. Just take off and stop that produces the sound.
on September 30, 2014
Try re-torqueing the axle nuts. I have had the splines do that if they are dry. Ball joints I have also seen , under the conditions you describe (dry , not excessive play).Be persistent , you will find it! There have been some cases where with a driver I trust behind the wheel , I've had them work it just like you've said , while on the ground , putting my hand on each part to see if I can 'feel' the noise. Found several tough ones like that.
on October 01, 2014
Well ziptie13, you WIN the prize! After about a week of crawling around the front end of that car, replacing one wheel bearing (actually needed), one axle (could have held out longer) and one trip to the transmission shop just out of pure panic, low and behold........ drum roll please..... it was the lower control arm bushing. The one that looks like a hockey puck.

How I found it? I jacked up the passenger side, placed it on a jack stand, removed the tire and a small dust guard that was blocking my view of the motor mount, then had the wife do the brake/gas trick. After watching the motor mount with suspect eyes and finding nothing remarkable, I moved on the control arm, and sure enough that thing was moving all over the place. The rubber had completely disconnected from the metal ring that it is pressed in with.

I replaced the struts in July and that was the first time I heard a small noise backing out of the driveway with the wheels cranked. I think it was on its way and I just aggravated it when I replaced the struts. It was a matter of time from there out.

In the end, after an online discount, $12.21 part at Advanced Auto. No I did not buy the cheap one, because I did not want to revisit this again. I have only had the car for about 3 months now and she got the best of me on this one.

Thanks for the help and input! I am sure this will not be the last time I will be here telling a tail about this car.
on October 02, 2014
Thanks for the response! Glad you found it! You did all the work................by the way , as for the 'prize' ...................what are my choices?????---- Choice 1) A person of intelligence and the courtesy to interact with the question they posted , leading to positive results--- or 2)A simple 'thank you' which is sooooo rare these days! I got 'em both! DING-DING-DING! yeah!.....................HOWEVER , IF YOU MUST INSIST ON CASH............NO,.NEVERMIND..............
on October 09, 2014
I can see where people may post something and not get back to you. Its the way of the internet today. The van still rides like a dream. What a relief! The wife and kids feel safe again, and that's what really matters! After looking at the site you are a busy person with a lot of advise! I will be sure to look you up on here again if I run into anything else! Thanks again!
on January 23, 2015
Had same exact problem! Great very honest and caring mechanic I use for all five of my cars, two classic, one semi-classic and two daily drivers. Classics '65 Cadillac Eldorado, 57,000 and GTO, 65,000, always get tender loving care, garaged/car cover, and are driven sparingly so best all-round reliability. Semi-classic '04 Mercury Marauder, 39,000, garaged/car cover, semi-reliability. '05 Buick Terraza CXL AWD, 79,000, notorious reliability any and all systems, read all about it, everywhere and my last GM vehicle ever, since I'm still making payments on it(Maintenance!) and it is practically worthless but I have a love hate relationship since it is a great road car and a tow(Full towing package!) car for my classics. I have upgraded many of the systems, ie braking components, not cheap but worth every penny, just ask my son-in-law, all Disc Italia rotors, drilled and slotted plus Disc Italia hyper ceramic pads, (Brake World, Greer S.C.), no more pulsating and super hyper, stand you on your head straight-line braking for thousands and thousands of miles, 140 amp Power Master alternator/Optima yellow top battery, no more flickering lights and super starting, so totally not all GM OE garbage of the pre-bankrupt days. '06 Honda CR-V SE AWD, 71,000, "SUPER" reliability, come on now what did you expect it is a Honda and my second one as my first, an '02 EX went well over 200,000, and was sold to a teenager who now has it well over 300,000 with nary a bolt turned on any major system. On the '06 a squirrel ate almost completely through my main wiring harness, which still allowed me to crank and drive it to my Honda dealer for repair($ 3,000+ fully covered by State Farm comprehensive!) and otherwise nary a bolt turned!!!!!!!!!!! Buy a Honda you'll never regret it!!!!!!!!!!
Automatic Transmission Diagnosis
$88 - $111 Learn More
on September 30, 2014
Have you visually inspected this mount (have someone in the car , while your watching , while they put it in gear and give it a little gas !!!-WHILE FIRMLY HOLDING THE BRAKE!!!..????? Sounds more like a lower control arm bushing to me , but that's a wild on-line guess.......... NO more parts until properly diagnosed!! ...Save the money and aggravation! Also one other thought , if it's causing steering wheel movement , -?sub-frame bushings?...
Sign in to reply
on September 30, 2014
We have been performing the test you suggested about 50 times now. The sound is very illusive, but very crisp. Definitely passenger side. The engine moves during the test, but not to the point it is smacking the firewall or other components. If you put it in reverse 1-2 MPH and hit the brakes, you hear it a crisp crack and then the same when you put it in drive (1-2 MPH)and hit the brakes. Same results with just holding the break and easing in the pedal on both drive and reverse. I plan to put a jack under it tomorrow and lifting the engine a bit to see if I hear/see anything obvious. I was thinking of unbolting the two top mounts that allow you to roll the engine to see if I hear anything when doing that. I have watched the sub frame and have not seen any movement. The rubber bushings look good, but I will inspect them better tomorrow. Its got about 125000 on it so anything is possible.

The steering wheel pull was noticed while at the transmission shop yesterday. We had it up on the rack with all the wheels off the ground, performing the brake test. We noticed the wheel pull and then the crack. They assured me it was not the transmission. I agree because once on the road it shifts perfect in all gears. Just take off and stop that produces the sound.
on September 30, 2014
Try re-torqueing the axle nuts. I have had the splines do that if they are dry. Ball joints I have also seen , under the conditions you describe (dry , not excessive play).Be persistent , you will find it! There have been some cases where with a driver I trust behind the wheel , I've had them work it just like you've said , while on the ground , putting my hand on each part to see if I can 'feel' the noise. Found several tough ones like that.
on October 01, 2014
Well ziptie13, you WIN the prize! After about a week of crawling around the front end of that car, replacing one wheel bearing (actually needed), one axle (could have held out longer) and one trip to the transmission shop just out of pure panic, low and behold........ drum roll please..... it was the lower control arm bushing. The one that looks like a hockey puck.

How I found it? I jacked up the passenger side, placed it on a jack stand, removed the tire and a small dust guard that was blocking my view of the motor mount, then had the wife do the brake/gas trick. After watching the motor mount with suspect eyes and finding nothing remarkable, I moved on the control arm, and sure enough that thing was moving all over the place. The rubber had completely disconnected from the metal ring that it is pressed in with.

I replaced the struts in July and that was the first time I heard a small noise backing out of the driveway with the wheels cranked. I think it was on its way and I just aggravated it when I replaced the struts. It was a matter of time from there out.

In the end, after an online discount, $12.21 part at Advanced Auto. No I did not buy the cheap one, because I did not want to revisit this again. I have only had the car for about 3 months now and she got the best of me on this one.

Thanks for the help and input! I am sure this will not be the last time I will be here telling a tail about this car.
on October 02, 2014
Thanks for the response! Glad you found it! You did all the work................by the way , as for the 'prize' ...................what are my choices?????---- Choice 1) A person of intelligence and the courtesy to interact with the question they posted , leading to positive results--- or 2)A simple 'thank you' which is sooooo rare these days! I got 'em both! DING-DING-DING! yeah!.....................HOWEVER , IF YOU MUST INSIST ON CASH............NO,.NEVERMIND..............
on October 09, 2014
I can see where people may post something and not get back to you. Its the way of the internet today. The van still rides like a dream. What a relief! The wife and kids feel safe again, and that's what really matters! After looking at the site you are a busy person with a lot of advise! I will be sure to look you up on here again if I run into anything else! Thanks again!
on January 23, 2015
Had same exact problem! Great very honest and caring mechanic I use for all five of my cars, two classic, one semi-classic and two daily drivers. Classics '65 Cadillac Eldorado, 57,000 and GTO, 65,000, always get tender loving care, garaged/car cover, and are driven sparingly so best all-round reliability. Semi-classic '04 Mercury Marauder, 39,000, garaged/car cover, semi-reliability. '05 Buick Terraza CXL AWD, 79,000, notorious reliability any and all systems, read all about it, everywhere and my last GM vehicle ever, since I'm still making payments on it(Maintenance!) and it is practically worthless but I have a love hate relationship since it is a great road car and a tow(Full towing package!) car for my classics. I have upgraded many of the systems, ie braking components, not cheap but worth every penny, just ask my son-in-law, all Disc Italia rotors, drilled and slotted plus Disc Italia hyper ceramic pads, (Brake World, Greer S.C.), no more pulsating and super hyper, stand you on your head straight-line braking for thousands and thousands of miles, 140 amp Power Master alternator/Optima yellow top battery, no more flickering lights and super starting, so totally not all GM OE garbage of the pre-bankrupt days. '06 Honda CR-V SE AWD, 71,000, "SUPER" reliability, come on now what did you expect it is a Honda and my second one as my first, an '02 EX went well over 200,000, and was sold to a teenager who now has it well over 300,000 with nary a bolt turned on any major system. On the '06 a squirrel ate almost completely through my main wiring harness, which still allowed me to crank and drive it to my Honda dealer for repair($ 3,000+ fully covered by State Farm comprehensive!) and otherwise nary a bolt turned!!!!!!!!!!! Buy a Honda you'll never regret it!!!!!!!!!!

Similar Questions

View answers to similar questions from RepairPal's community of auto experts and enthusiasts.
i drove my terraza iin all gears except drive it wont budge
Just that after service we ended up with no parking lights we have brake lights, turn signal and head lights but no...