What is your question?
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What is your question?
- Check engine light (CEL) comes on after about 10 min of driving lately. However the engine starts and runs smoothly both before and after the CEL comes on. - My autoxray diagnostics tool indicates the aforementioned trouble code. - Per various similar posts I did a brief check of the following: Removed, inspected and cleaned some carbon deposits from EGR valve; then drove but CEL returned. Still I do not know if the valve is bad, however. - Noticed aged vacuum hose that goes from manifold to air intake piping (with small cracks at bends). Clamps were also missing but has run with ends duct taped for some time prior to notice of this error. - Also, do not know if actual MAP sensor is defective. What would be the most common things to check / investigate further in this case? 'Planning to sell but prospective buyer wants to know more specifically what the problem is. 'Trying to avoid service garage if possible at this late stage. Thanks in advance for any help!
2 Replies
ANY leaks in the intake tube is unacceptable for correct maf performance!!!
I had this exact same thing happen to my car. I had to replace my EGR solenoid with a new one. In my case the EGR solenoid worked fine while the engine was cold, but it would always fail after the engine warmed up. -Dave
Problem Solved. Here's what it was (along the lines of your later reply)... It was not the Air Inlet-Air Hose (which I eventually replaced), it indeed was the EGR valve (even though my diagnostic tool reported this as a MAP sensor fault). I decided to remove the EGR valve once again and better test the plunger for sticking. I applied a bit more pressure to the plunger and did notice a slight sticking before it released. I then cleaned the assembly more thoroughly this time and the plunger moved very freely afterwards. The valve gasket was in good shape but I applied a lite film of gasket seal before final re-assembly to the manifold. The CEL light now stays off and the problem went away and remains solved even after a couple thousand miles of additional driving (by the new owner). I'm glad that I didn't have to buy a replacement EGR valve and am still not sure as to why this problem reported as a MAP sensor fault instead of an EGR fault of some sort. The MAP sensor itself was fine. I would also suggest for this car, with this many miles on it, that if the gas peddle has a sticking spot, that you remove the throttle body and clean the insides with carb-choke-throttle body cleaner. This solved that sticking problem as well. Cheers.
I just checked the trouble code listing at http://www.troublecodes.net/saturn/. It says Code 32<your code> is "EGR System Fault", while code 33 is "Map Sensor: Voltage out of range high". In my case I had both codes. I think the EGR fault also caused the MAP sensor fault. I guess, because the stuck valve effectively leaked the vacuum into the tailpipe. I'm glad to hear you managed to clean the EGR valve. That saved you a good $100. In my case I probably could have cleaned it. However, I was really busy with work, so I had to buy a new one. Thanks for the update, I hope the car continues to run well. -Dave
Thank you for your reply. Sorry, I made a mistake when describing the hose. It was apparently the "Air Inlet-Air Hose" and was connected between the valve cover and the air intake; part of the pcv system I believe. Meanwhile I'll keep looking.
LMAO!!!