2012 Sorento V6 3.5 lights pulsing after alternator change (2X)
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2012 Kia Sorento 3.5, factory alternator went bad, stopped charging, installed new one, lights now slight flashing at idle and while driving (inside lights and marker lights, headlights, tail lights very obvious) putting out 13.8-14. volts while running. 880 CCA battery, load tested at 876 CCA, suspected weak voltage regulator in new alternator so changed alternator again, exact same results. Had both alternators tested while in car and on bench, all tests are good but lights still flash/pulse enough to notice. Snap On computer says battery requires 70% at idle with nothing on and also 70% with everything on, same results at 2000 rpm as well. Also took alligator clips with both cables off battery for 30 minutes to ensure everything wiped clean. Thinking maybe computer needs to be reprogrammed? unless someone has other ideas, any help appreciated. 59,000 miles
What makes this problem better or worse?
Nothing so far
How long has your 2012 Kia Sorento had this problem?
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GROUND the alternator with a jumper wire... Check ALL body ground circuits.
Possible poor quality replacement alternator - NAPA Power Premium is an excellent choice.
Alternators can easily pass voltage testing but it is beyond most capabilities when testing alternating current switching to direct current - if that segment is failing the lights are going to flicker or pulse..
((Alternating - current))
Both replacement alternators have been Napa Power Premium 150 amp. Have ran a ground from alternator to chassis, also ran jumper cable size ground from negative terminal side of battery to strut mount bolt and also engine mount stud, no change. Have cleaned battery terminals (looked perfect but willing to try anything at this point). Any Chassis ground I can find has been taken off, wire brushed on both sides and tightened back down, have found none loose, corroded etc. at all yet. Trust me still looking for any more that I may not have seen yet. Thank you for your ideas and response. This one has me really baffled so far.
Just for the heck of it - try another battery - - for real.
You can rest assured the alternator isn’t the problem if it is the NAPA Power Premium!
They undergo the most extensive testing before leaving factory than any other replacements sold.
I agree....even though this one is load testing right on target maybe something internal got damaged when original alternator failed. Have another vehicle with the same battery in it. Will try after work tomorrow. Thank you. Will let you know.
What’s the scanner showing as alternator voltage output? .. Is that reading fluctuating as well? Alternator has internal regulator so pcm doesn’t control voltage but live data may help.
Honestly I’m out of ammo here as I just can’t see it being an alternator problem - but then again I suppose anything is possible.
scanner showing 14.3 volts output at idle with nothing on at just over 600 RPM (warm idle). It fluctuates ever so slightly, 14.13-14.37. Went back through grounds again tonight, wiring from battery to alternator, ran new (temporary) lines from alternator to chassis in multiple unpainted places, negative side of battery to same etc, no changes with any of it. Really scratching my head on this one. Thinking its going to end up at the dealer. At this point show me what I have missed and learn from it. Local electronics car guru for this area checked it out tonight and tested a bunch, his conclusion is maybe a bad/going bad solenoid or similar, also mentioned a re-flash of computer. Didn't end up charging me, only wants to know what end result is as payment once it gets figured out. Call me stumped.....
Hi Don. My Kia is doing the same exact thing and replaced the alternator twice as well. I’ve tried everything you have and now am leaning towards the battery sensor. I’m curious what you found out what fixed yours. Thanks
Both replacement alternators have been Napa Power Premium 150 amp. Have ran a ground from alternator to chassis, also ran jumper cable size ground from negative terminal side of battery to strut mount bolt and also engine mount stud, no change. Have cleaned battery terminals (looked perfect but willing to try anything at this point). Any Chassis ground I can find has been taken off, wire brushed on both sides and tightened back down, have found none loose, corroded etc. at all yet. Trust me still looking for any more that I may not have seen yet. Thank you for your ideas and response. This one has me really baffled so far.
Just for the heck of it - try another battery - - for real. You can rest assured the alternator isn’t the problem if it is the NAPA Power Premium! They undergo the most extensive testing before leaving factory than any other replacements sold.
I agree....even though this one is load testing right on target maybe something internal got damaged when original alternator failed. Have another vehicle with the same battery in it. Will try after work tomorrow. Thank you. Will let you know.
Had this happen once on a Chrysler - battery fixed that vehicle... It is unusual. Good luck!
Tried a new battery tonight, also went back through grounds, wiring to alternator etc. No change unfortunately.
What’s the scanner showing as alternator voltage output? .. Is that reading fluctuating as well? Alternator has internal regulator so pcm doesn’t control voltage but live data may help. Honestly I’m out of ammo here as I just can’t see it being an alternator problem - but then again I suppose anything is possible.
scanner showing 14.3 volts output at idle with nothing on at just over 600 RPM (warm idle). It fluctuates ever so slightly, 14.13-14.37. Went back through grounds again tonight, wiring from battery to alternator, ran new (temporary) lines from alternator to chassis in multiple unpainted places, negative side of battery to same etc, no changes with any of it. Really scratching my head on this one. Thinking its going to end up at the dealer. At this point show me what I have missed and learn from it. Local electronics car guru for this area checked it out tonight and tested a bunch, his conclusion is maybe a bad/going bad solenoid or similar, also mentioned a re-flash of computer. Didn't end up charging me, only wants to know what end result is as payment once it gets figured out. Call me stumped.....
Every once and a-while a problem that defies common logic comes along! Let us know the final outcome as well..
Hi Don. My Kia is doing the same exact thing and replaced the alternator twice as well. I’ve tried everything you have and now am leaning towards the battery sensor. I’m curious what you found out what fixed yours. Thanks