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Why will.my clutch not engage, stays disengaged?
1990 Chevrolet S10 Blazer

Why will.my clutch not engage, stays disengaged?

(1990 Chevrolet S10 Blazer)
New clutch and pressure plate. Now feels like clutch pedal always pressed.
What seems to make the problem better or worse? Hasn't worked since parts replaced.
How long have you had this problem? Since replacing clutch and pressure plate.
Tags: chevrolet, s10 blazer
1 answer & 17 comments
Popular Answer
on February 05, 2019
Clutch should remain ENGAGED if the pedal isn’t working .. IF you mean clutch will not ‘disengage’ so transmission can be shifted into gear with engine on - system bleeding to remove all air must be performed.

Assuming this wasn’t the problem to begin with (?)

Good luck!
Sign in to reply
on February 05, 2019

There is a bleeder screw on the slave cylinder.

Fluid level must be properly maintained during bleeding!!
on February 05, 2019
Sorry, yes clutch will not disengage. Will not shift with vehicle on.
on February 05, 2019

BLEED ALL AIR FROM SYSTEM!
on February 05, 2019
How far should the plunger on slave cylinder travel? Should it hit the top, mine stops about 1/2 to 1" from meeting top. Is it possible spring inside worn and need new slave cylinder?
on February 05, 2019

There is no spring involved here - it is all done hydraulically! .... All air must be purged from the system which is no easy task - even for a seasoned technician .. Best route to take is seek out *hands-on* assistance from auto repair savvy personnel.

Bleeding can be done by using gravity - however it is best done by two people - just like bleeding the brakes.
on February 05, 2019
Ok, I understand bleeding like brakes, but there is no bleeder screw, will continue the reverse method, pushing back rod to purge air to reservoir. May have to remove altogether and bench bleed.
on February 05, 2019

There should be a bleeder screw on the slave cylinder!

IF not - replace it with one from NAPA for about $20.00.

Best to always include engine size when inquiring about vehicle repair or parts.
on February 05, 2019

2.8L or 4.3L
on February 05, 2019
NAPA: 2 possibilities:

Clutch Slave Cylinder PART # : NCF 73122

Clutch Slave Cylinder PART # : NCF 73120

Can look at pictures.
on February 05, 2019
4.3L, thought I had put it in original question sorry. Was thinking of replacing it just in case, but noticed there is a hex key set screw where a bleeder screw may fit, going to remove and see if bleeder screw kit has one that'll fit it.
on February 05, 2019
NO - that IS the bleeder screw!!

Use it just like any other! ... Loosen it a bit for air to escape then tighten it back..
on February 05, 2019
Ah ha! Ooof, just had crazy mind blown moment. Feel so much like a novice right now. Going to do as soon as out of work. Will keep posted! Thank you Pushrod, you are a gentleman and a scholar.
on February 05, 2019

Not really - I’ve just been to automobile repair business way too long!

Retired now and don’t miss it nary bit!
on February 05, 2019
I always wanted to get into automobile repair business, even got a degree in automotive tech, but live in an area that, if you don't know someone or if your more educated than the guys that have been there forever, there's no chance. So practice my trade at home as much as possible.
on February 05, 2019
Well I managed to stay in it for 45 years - even had my own shop - it was an ok living and I’ve done alright but in retrospect i wish I’d chosen a different path - which was certainly available to me on many occasions along the way .. Live and learn - after the fact!

It is pretty much a thankless job to have anymore - it didn’t used to be this way.

Glad to be done with it myself.
on February 05, 2019
Just keep bleeding that shave cylinder until you’re sick of it - then do it some more!

Keep master cylinder full of fluid at all times - you’ll get it working!
on February 06, 2019
Opposite issue now, the clutch is always disengaged. Gears go in, but no go
General Diagnosis
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on February 05, 2019
Clutch should remain ENGAGED if the pedal isn’t working .. IF you mean clutch will not ‘disengage’ so transmission can be shifted into gear with engine on - system bleeding to remove all air must be performed.

Assuming this wasn’t the problem to begin with (?)

Good luck!
Sign in to reply
on February 05, 2019

There is a bleeder screw on the slave cylinder.

Fluid level must be properly maintained during bleeding!!
on February 05, 2019
Sorry, yes clutch will not disengage. Will not shift with vehicle on.
on February 05, 2019

BLEED ALL AIR FROM SYSTEM!
on February 05, 2019
How far should the plunger on slave cylinder travel? Should it hit the top, mine stops about 1/2 to 1" from meeting top. Is it possible spring inside worn and need new slave cylinder?
on February 05, 2019

There is no spring involved here - it is all done hydraulically! .... All air must be purged from the system which is no easy task - even for a seasoned technician .. Best route to take is seek out *hands-on* assistance from auto repair savvy personnel.

Bleeding can be done by using gravity - however it is best done by two people - just like bleeding the brakes.
on February 05, 2019
Ok, I understand bleeding like brakes, but there is no bleeder screw, will continue the reverse method, pushing back rod to purge air to reservoir. May have to remove altogether and bench bleed.
on February 05, 2019

There should be a bleeder screw on the slave cylinder!

IF not - replace it with one from NAPA for about $20.00.

Best to always include engine size when inquiring about vehicle repair or parts.
on February 05, 2019

2.8L or 4.3L
on February 05, 2019
NAPA: 2 possibilities:

Clutch Slave Cylinder PART # : NCF 73122

Clutch Slave Cylinder PART # : NCF 73120

Can look at pictures.
on February 05, 2019
4.3L, thought I had put it in original question sorry. Was thinking of replacing it just in case, but noticed there is a hex key set screw where a bleeder screw may fit, going to remove and see if bleeder screw kit has one that'll fit it.
on February 05, 2019
NO - that IS the bleeder screw!!

Use it just like any other! ... Loosen it a bit for air to escape then tighten it back..
on February 05, 2019
Ah ha! Ooof, just had crazy mind blown moment. Feel so much like a novice right now. Going to do as soon as out of work. Will keep posted! Thank you Pushrod, you are a gentleman and a scholar.
on February 05, 2019

Not really - I’ve just been to automobile repair business way too long!

Retired now and don’t miss it nary bit!
on February 05, 2019
I always wanted to get into automobile repair business, even got a degree in automotive tech, but live in an area that, if you don't know someone or if your more educated than the guys that have been there forever, there's no chance. So practice my trade at home as much as possible.
on February 05, 2019
Well I managed to stay in it for 45 years - even had my own shop - it was an ok living and I’ve done alright but in retrospect i wish I’d chosen a different path - which was certainly available to me on many occasions along the way .. Live and learn - after the fact!

It is pretty much a thankless job to have anymore - it didn’t used to be this way.

Glad to be done with it myself.
on February 05, 2019
Just keep bleeding that shave cylinder until you’re sick of it - then do it some more!

Keep master cylinder full of fluid at all times - you’ll get it working!
on February 06, 2019
Opposite issue now, the clutch is always disengaged. Gears go in, but no go

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