Toyota Sienna Questions

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The water blow back to the reservoir

The other night while driving it I heard this horrible metal scraping sound and ever since then every time I start it it immediately dies I cannot keep it running.....

seems not to engage at start or jerks and jerked at 65 mph

I have several alarms since the tire pressure alarm stated ... check engine light, abs brake alarm, now brake alarm ... the abs and check engine light were intermittent at first ...

Could a minor transmission leak prevent the car from accelerating?

Needs both Knock sensor circuit and sub harness for the sensor to be replaced
Intake manifold casket set to be replaced
And Crossover coolant pipe and adding toyota long life coolant
The codes are PO174 And P0300
Price coasts please and where to take it
Thank you

When I try to open the sliding door the wire or cable is loose and showing. It is preventing the door to open and close properly.

This noise started about a month ago. It was making the noise once in a while. The noise now happens all time.
There is no vibration or loose feeling when driving.
Are there any steps I could do to narrow down the cause? Also, could you give an estimate of shop cost to diagnose the problem?
Thank you for your help.

my toyota have 3.0 6cylinder and would like to know where the etc sensor is located

Just turn on air condition first time this season (90 degrees) any only hot air came out.

I have a 2006 toyota sienna with power side mirrors. they work fine but the driver side mirror has a problem with the fold in. it is loose and moves as I am driving. can I put a screw in the bottom to stop it

I think this is an oil pump issue

I was told by the Toyota dealership that the reason my Check Engine light would come on and stay on was because of a bad evaporator vsv. What is the usual cost to repair/replace this problem by the dealership or an independent repair with parts and labor?

is because of the Evaporator VSV was bad. What is usually the cost of labor and any parts an independent shop other than the dealership?

I did a compression test on all six cylinders and had a reading of 160 on five cylinders and 70 on one so I was wondering if i could change just the one head gasket

Is my van need timing chain replaced.

early morning 5am, starter engaged and wont stop turning the motor, even when key is removed, and re-engages when battery is reconnected. I disconnected the battery and went to work. After work I connected the battery and Starter did not re-engage. (until) I turned the key and now every time I connect the battery it sparks hard and wants to melt the battery posts if I leave it connected.

My 2000 toyota sienna 3.0 v6 motor is running very rough and while in gear drives very slowly or not at all. Check enging light was blinking but now just stays on.

Engine revs high before it kicks into 2nd and third gear.

No physical signs of leak, very minor so far. Why is the quote so high? Otherwise, car is in great condition. Should I go with agency or look elsewhere?

the other side won't open and close now

Door open lite is continually on with some lites constantly on, leading to drain on battery

I was hearing a constant chirping sound from the front right hand side of my 2009 Toyota Sienna 2 WD. I had replaced all 4 tires, front brake pads, front brake rotors, performed wheel balancing and alignment. My mechanic said the front right hand side wheel bearing needs to be replaced. Upon further examination he said the front axle bearing should also be replaced. I need to know how much cost (parts & labor) should I be expecting for this repair?

if I do several short cranks of starter then it will start ok. It seems like it takes a few seconds to get enough fuel to start. Each day it takes a little longer to start.

Check engine is on with TRAC OFF and VSC. I checked with OBD-II. It showed P0136 refer to Bank 1 Sensor 2. But at the same time I see voltage only on B1S2. Other o2 sensors without any voltage. What can you suggest? I replaced B2S1 front upstream, but no voltage through OBD-II.

the usual 'D' For drive does not move the car fast enough. it also revs to '3' on the odometer before the car moves. i hope the transmission is not bad yet

when I open door it doesn't latch into place and will potentially slide shut while someone is trying to climb in. Can I fix it so it latches?

Does the 2011 3.5l motor have a timing chain or belt? Whats the recommend mileage replacement interval for such?

the dashboard lights never come on which makes driving in the dark difficult. also when i turn the headlights on instead of day runners my radio lights go off? im guessing wiring, anybody have this happen

drove about 60 miles and then started to get a miss and loss of power (particularly up hill) and the check engine light was either flashing or steady.

borrowed a OBD tester and got codes P0303/0306 cylinder 3/6 misfire. I see a "square" module on the front of the engine near the oil cap with an ignition wire labeled "3" and a second connector that looks like it leads to a fuel injector. The connectors are a mystery as I cannot figure out how to open them.

Because of the engine "V" shape, I cannot see if there is a reciprical "square" module and is the problem in one, both or not these modules?