BMW 535xi Questions

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High temperature appears on screen after driving for 50 km
At startup, it idles a little rough for about 5 seconds and then is fine. Now, if I accelerate fast (not like a race car driver, but faster than usual), it accelerates with a split second hesitation and immediately begins to vibrate so rough that it feels as if the engine will die and it feels this way in any gear (and the check engine light comes on). If I turn off the engine for a few seconds and restart, it restarts normally as described above and drives perfectly until I accelerate quickly again at which time the vibration starts all over again. I took it to a mechanic 4 days in a row with this issue and get hooked it up to the computer which gives a different code as the issue each day. PLEASE HELP!!!
I've never had this problem before
All interior and exterior lights are so I don't believe it's the battery..on top of we tried to jump the just will not start..this is the first incident I've had ..any ideas as to what maybe the problem?
I started my '08 535xi this morning and am having an odd radio issue. FM, AM & WB are not selectable using the i-drive knob and actually greyed out, only CD & AUX are selectable. However, if I use the dash hardware fm/am button I can get the radio selections to come up and the radio plays.
Any ideas? I tried the "reset" under the audio selections but this did nothing.
I'm in the market for a new car.
I'm 6'4 (don't fit in most cars without the seat back
Need AWD (live in Toronto)
Used to driving a VW GTI (I like a sporty car)

2008 BMW 535xi
2008 Cadillac CTS4 (with no sunroof)
2010 Subaru Legacy 3.6R (slow but good headroom/AWD)

I will buy a car with no accidents and less than 100 miles with a good story.

I love the 535xi but I don't want to be stuck soon with very expensive repairs.

Can anyone weigh in here?

Check engine light came on when we pumped poor quality fuel (we think) and subsequently, a rattling sound could be heard when starting the car as it were from the exhaust or thereabouts. Noise has been getting loud, but not too loud. Dealer initially, suggested changing the wastegate actuators.Then it was determined that the wastegate actuators could not be located and the turbo needed to be changed. The rear brake pads also needed to be changed, all in about a 9K repair which we declined. Then the dealer indicated that the wastegate actuators were not the problem and that by cleaning out the wastegates (which they couldn't originally find) they could make the noise go away but to fix the check engine light, they have to change the fuel injector and spark plugs. How do I know what is the right assessment of the issue? Sounds like they are trying to fleece us.
Dashboard screen lights up like a Christmas tree: "AWD, ABS, EBV, etc... malfunction" All other warning lights stay on. Car drives perfectly fine, no noticeable issues! Dealer wants $145 for diagnosis alone! Help!
I am seriously contemplating purchasing a minty-appearing 2008 535xi equipped with a turbo-charged V6 & a 6-speed standard transmission with a clean CarFax report and 87k miles by a single owner. My immediate concerns focus upon the manual clutch.

1] With normal human driving habits [hard-pressed to define that], what is the usual clutch life in miles?

2] Assuming the worst, what should I anticipate a complete replacing of the manual clutch to cost me [arm, leg, testicles & 1st-born child?

3] Any idiosyncratic or anomalous traits I need to be aware of for this model?

I am planning to go look at & test drive it tomorrow, 03/31/2014.
have had used car for about 1.5 years and now on the 2nd time of total electrical failure. they replaced battery in oct'11 but same thing happened this time. the 'servictronic malfunction' message comes on when holding down the 'check' lever.
I recently fill up the tank and since putting in that gas the car has gone haywire. It's too coincidental that this started with the fill up.

Oil change was done 1 week ago, GoodYear gave it a clean bill of health. Took two long distance trips (each +6 hours driving each day - ran like a dream). Filled up because I had to at mini-mart, 93 octane, but engine ran rough the next morning.

No acceleration until it is very warm (after running 10 minutes it seems to work fine, except not today). Sputters and shakes like I'm lugging down in a high gear.

Error codes are (from my handheld):
MIL DTC 2-18-2012
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
Stored Codes
P0139 O2 Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
P0300 Random/Multiple Misfire Detected
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0303 Cylinder Number 3 Misfire Detected
Pending Codes
P0139 O2 Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
P0159 O2 Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
P0300 Random/Multiple Misfire Detected
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0303 Cylinder Number 3 Misfire Detected
P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected

(from yesterday)

MIL DTC 2-17-2012
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
Stored Codes
P0140 O2 Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
P0300 Random/Multiple Misfire Detected
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder Number 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 Cylinder Number 3 Misfire Detected
Pending Codes
P0302 Cylinder Number 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 Cylinder Number 3 Misfire Detected
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency (Bank 1) Below Threshold

The exhaust smells like gasoline, so there must be incomplete combution.

I'm planning to take it in, it's under extended warranty. The shop isn't open until Monday, so I thought I would post to see if I can get any upfront knowlege prior to taking it in under warranty.
What is the cost, and when will it likely be necessary?
Engine light on, car bucking reduced power
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