What is your question?
check engine lite came on about a year ago, Didn't hear, feel, or notice anything. then 3 months in that year, I'd be on the highway running 75mph go to pass a car then <poof> my power went no action from the petal. but cars still running so, it happened a few more times. Months 6 or so it happening at a lower speed like 67 68mph but not all the time. So I replaced ignition coil wires and spark plugs, then it happened again so I got an OBD-2 scanner P191code showed up, So the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor was replaced. Then it a few weeks later it would die at idle, start shaking at the lite, losing power while driving. So I replaced the fuel pump, filter, Cleaned the MAF on the air intake, just got a Fuel Pressure Regulator, but I can't find it. being told its in the pump or on the fuel rail. Now it dies every 3 blocks or so. Then I read about <<Limp Mode.>> The only thing left to replace is the Fuel Module. can anyone help. 08 S60 2.5L Turbo 110,000ml. Sweden mfg.
What makes this problem better or worse?
At one point a full tank of gas then it stopped, So I replaced Fuel pump
How long has your 2008 Volvo S60 had this problem?
got serious last month
Thank you. In my defense, I live about 100 miles from a Volvo dealer. Not my only vehicle and as an Owner Operator I didn't replace with inferior aftermarket parts. After getting a wireless OBD-2 scanner an got the codes I then started testing and learning how and what they do. From experience, I've learned you can give your money to someone for a half job or you learn how to fix it, and share it. The VIDA Software needed is about $2700 no shop manuals for Volvo I did a pressure test and founded fuel gets to rail then it stops, the car dies I restart pressure comes up to 40psi. Now I learned the fuel module controls the pump speed so before replacing it, I learning how to test it. I assumed someone would have had similar like problem and could aid me with knowledge on fixing instead of renting a truck and trailer and pull it 100 miles to a dealer who's gonna charge me a 100. + to say yeap...Then charge me twice the amount for parts I'm not as trusting of dealerships as you. But thank you for responding and being concerned with my money and offering no help
Im just being direct, and I have given you a bit of direction that seems to make sense. There is no "help" (answer) that anyone online can offer you other than more guesses. The best method of approaching any concern is through process. The process of diagnosing vehicle concerns includes step by step procedures for testing. I'm all for folks "doing it yourself" -- because that's what I did growing up. The difference is, I was working on a 1977 Ford with no processors at all, and you're working on a 2008 Volvo with OBD II and CAN networking among several modules. The theory and operation is so different. If you do not have the ability to monitor data and you do not have a shop manual, you are literally guessing. Educated guesses or not, it's still a guess. Guesses are more expensive most of the time than investing in the efforts of a local trusted technician. Note that I did not suggest dealership technician -- the choice is yours there. According to the shop manual, your fuel pressure test should be about 54-57 psi following the pressure test procedures (vehicle not running) and should not fall below about 30 psi when shutting the key off within about 20 minutes. But, there are proper ways to test -- and I can't possibly go through all that information on here and transcribe a shop manual. I find the thought of shotgun replacing a fuel pump to be a bit mind numbing, honestly.. And replacing any control components, you would really want to analyze active data before just replacing what could be a perfectly good part. Perhaps a Volvo experienced tech out there may have different advice. Certainly wish you good luck.