Rough idle and tendency to stall until engine is warm.

I have heard reports of this complaint being solved by cleaning the throttle body. I would clean the Idle Air control (IAC) valve on the throttle body also. I can't imagine the diagnostic trail that would lead to replacing the catalytic converters for a lean running code or stalling. Myself, I would check the oxygen sensors using scan data to be sure they're OK but I always do that when diagnosing driveability problems. I recommend you find a Mazda or Ford specialist. I've also gotten reports of lean running and stalling due to leaqking intake manifold gaskets. I'd check that the intake air duct and the airflow sensor (MAF) are not leaking air. If you want to find a specialist, here's a directory link for you:

Intake gaskets, MAF readings - BARO readings, vacuum leaks... Agreed with Bob...what on Earth led to replacing the catalytic converters??? Who retreived the codes? Are both banks lean or just one?

I have had this exact problem and have read many upon many blogs on people who have spent countless hours and thousands of dollars trying to fix this problem. During the process I have come to empathize with those who could not troubleshoot the most obvious of conditions first and foremost, leaky vacuum tubes. A notorious trait of these vehicles. For my 2001 DX V6 model, there is a vacuum tube which takes a 90% turn toward the back of the engine by the fire wall. It goes down in an L shape pattern and curves back toward the front of the engine and plugs into the block on the side. It's hard to explain so take pictures and take it to the Mazda parts shop. Anyhow this tube turned brittle and was leaking profusely. There is a lot of suction on this tube and it was starting to collapse. This part cost me $35 and I could not believe it but I was jumping for joy at the sound of my smooth running engine. Do yourselves a favor and check vacuum hoses first before throwing money into insanity.