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What is your question?
I have developed a leak on the passenger side in the rear. I called the dealer and they said most likely rear heater core tubing connections have corroded. I was told I could take the line off and possibly replace the o ring seal. Is this a option? Also where could I find an exploded view of this area of the vehicle.
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I would tend to believe the dealer, they probably have seen this quite a few times if they were able to tell you what the problem is. The type of image you need will most likely be available in a repair manual, you might find a free one here: http://bit.ly/autozone_repair_info or go to http://bit.ly/alldata_repair_manuals or http://bit.ly/mitchell_repair_manuals_online and get an online repair manual subscription.
KIA SEDONA leaking radiator fluid, heater core, metal tubing rust. - - - - I have had the same problem and I fixed it myself yesterday! It is definitely your metal tubing from engine to rear heater core. They used crummy metal tubing that quickly rusts out. I HAVE A FIX! This fix will run you about $100 and 3 hours of work, but it is readily accomplished by anyone that can cut rubber tubing and use a screwdriver! This fix will replace all metal tubing from engine to rear heater core. You will need to remove a chunk of rubber tubing located near exhaust under driver side of vehicle. Make sure this is the coolant line and not the gas line! Cut out the section as you need the diameter of the tubing. (Sorry, but I didn't write down the dimension.) Next, go to NAPA auto parts. Get 2- T connectors for this tubing along with 4 straight connectors. You will also need 14 hose clamps for this size tubing. Buy a package of 10-12'" zip tyes. You will also need a knife (serrated blade cuts tubing best) and a 6 in1 screwdriver(you will remove driver bits and use the nut driver on the hose clamps.) You will also need to purchase about 20 feet of rubber tubing. I apologize if you have a few extra feet as I did this project in 2 phases, which was a waste of time as I did the rear this spring and now did the front yesterday. Measure from back tire to front tire and the from hub of front tire to top of hood for a better estimate... Also purchase a gallon of 100% antifreeze. Go shopping... Start at back of vehicle, and cut rubber lines just past clamp (I cut rubber lines as it takes too long to remove tension clamps and metal pipe from rubber.) Collect antifreeze in jug. Jack up front of car. You will need to remove plastic guard under car that protects belts. Located between engine and cab of car are the metal lines you will be replacing. Wear glasses to protect eyes. Cut rubber tubing connected to all metal lines of heater core tubing. I left as is as it was too time consuming to remove, and there is no need as you are bypassing everything. Using a T connector and a small amount of tubing, recreate this T connector. T connector will slide into front heatercore tubing and then you will need to measure length of tubing to connect to engine tubing, each is about 4". Add an inline connector and hose clamps and connect bottom of T to rest of the spool of hose. Connect all hoses exactly as previously connected. Run tubing towards back of vehicle tight to cab and along gas line. Avoid exhaust pipes! This run will be different than the previous lines, and that's ok. Cut tubing for connection to rear rubber hose and add inline connector. Repeat with other line and zip tie everything tight. Make sure you do not kink any hoses as they go to back of vehicle. Fill radiator and reservoir. Start engine and add fluid until full. It took my van about 30 minutes to expel all of the airbubbles out of the line before system was completely full. Good Luck!!!