Won't shift out of park

Hi, not sure if you got it fixed yet, but when my 97 Trooper did the same thing it turns out that it was the starter. Isuzu did all kinds of what they called Safety Fault Protections that when something dies on it or goes wrong it shuts the vehicle to supposedly protect it and won't run till fixed. My starter tested as good under a bench test load, but still was the starter in the end because when I replaced the starter it ran good again, till it locked me out again when the alternator went and the oil pressure sending unit and also, oil pressure switch, and the temp sensor and many other issue's shut it down. Any mechanic or battery shop can bench test your starter or test the whole electrical system. I'd start with seeing if it is pulling any codes first. My best guess is the starter due to mine did the same. Lock out may be good in some instances for protecting, but in other instances of chasing problems and mounting cost that go with it, is unbelieveable. I really like this vehicle, but not all the headaches and cost that go with it and it will be the last I ever own of them. Recent problem car died in middle of a redlight stop. Wouldn't restart. All things pointed to a fuel pump. Got it replaced still wouldn't start. Turns out it is the fuel pump sending unit. Both can go, but because it would not read the fuel pump was replaced when in fact it did not need to be because it turns out the old one was working, but looked like it wasn't due to a bad sending unit. All found after the new pump was put in and more than a two hundred later. Be aware many problems and issues on Isuzu's are not as they seem, meaning not straight forward like vehicles of old days. It can be any number of things in a string. Using this and any of the other forums and countless hours of searching will usually render answers. Always check fuses at the foot kick plate inside near the door. Check your relays next - under the hood - passenger side- nearer the firewall, usually. Some relays are interchangeable and if you pull a good one (get a test light to see if your fuses and relays are good - fairly cheap at any automotive store or Walmart, some Dollar Stores, etc.)and put the good relay in another slot and if it fixes the issue then you have found your problem and if it doesn't you move on to other things like is it pulling any codes using an OBD II tester for your year vehicle? Check Alternator and Starter connections and do not hit the starter some of the newer ones have a magnet in them and when you hit them renders them useless. Igniton switch. Neutral safety switch are things to check on as well and I believe will pull codes. Normally anything that is electrically run pulls a code, normally. Fairly cheap to buy the OBD Testers now on eBay, but due to how many kinds best to ask someone like a mechanic what would work best for your vehicle. Autozone offers the OBD II test for free in most area's. Do you have any reset buttons on your vehicle, such as, alarm reset button? Mine's located at the inside foot kick plate fuse box (indide compartment to the left of the pedals on the wall is where most fuse boxes are located, and some vehicles have them in the glove box , as well. I have not seen them in the glove box on Isuzu though). If you do not know how to use a fuse tester, call your local Autozone who should have no problem explaining if the package does not. Autozone is pretty helpful if you ask. Sometimes there's a fault protection lock-out, you can then try putting your key in the ignition, then take it out, next push the door panel door lock button, close the door, check for the alarm light to be flashing on the dash, then put key in door lock and turn right only, try to start it again. Pull the e-brake up and put it back down, found on-line. Some of these fixes were learned the hard way and some were found on-line. Also go on youtube.com and look for answers there, there are many good video's of fixes. One is ScottyKilmer.com and he's on youtube, as well as, many others with good advice and fixes. It is a matter of chasing the issue down and it can get aggravating and costly in the end if not a simple fix. It is also most helpful to anyone trying to offer help to give more of an explanation of what the car was doing before it would not work and if any after's such as it cranked over fine before it died, but will not crank at all after it died or it cranks but will not start, are the inside lights dimming if you turn the key to on with the inside or headlights on, automatic or standard, it is reading hot on the temperature indicator, oil is up or low or don't know, etc., to name a few things, because it helps to possibly pinpoint an issue(s). Best of luck and hope that some part of this is of help to you.