stalling while driving

The problem with electrical issues is that the only way that they can be diagnosed is when they fail. If an electrical circuit is working there is really nothing a technician can do but to wait for it to fail. Once it fails for a technician then the proper diagnostic procedures can be followed to diagnose the problem. To my knowledge there isn't any technology that is able to tell when a circuit will fail, and what part will go bad when it does. What you can do to help is to keep a log of when the engine stalls and to see if you can duplicate it on a consistent basis. The more information you can give the technician the better their chances are that they can find the problem. As far as what could be the problem it seems as if you have eliminated the ignition switch and we know that's okay because the dash lights stay on. There are three things an engine needs to run, compression, fuel and ignition. We can assume the compression is good because the engine runs. This narrows it down to two issues, fuel and ignition. Fuel issues could be caused by a PGMFI main relay that controls the fuel pump and I have seem them fail. It could be a fuel pump but I normally don't see those go bad. It could also be some type of fuel starvation due to a blocked fuel line/plugged fuel filter but I don't see much of that either. Ignition issues could be the ignition rotor, cap, or igniter. In cases like these it takes patience from the vehicle owners and the technicians to repair the issue. Believe me the techs that work on vehicles with issues like yours want to repair your vehicle it's just that your vehicle isn't cooperating. Sometimes customers will okay certain part replacements with the understanding that it is an educated guess and that it may not repair the issue.

I have a 98 CR-V with 168000, 5 speed, LX AWD. Regular services done and full tune up with coil less than 1 year ago. Car stalled first time while climbing a mountain pass outside of Steamboat Springs CO. 60mph, a/c on been on the road for 3 hours already. Gas tank is full and the car is loaded with camping and biking gear. Sat there for 20-30 minutes deciding what to do and who to call. Jut by chance I tried to crank it and it started easily. We took off and made it another 30-40 miles before it did it again. Sat down and ate lunch for 20-30 minutes at a cafe and it cranked again and made it to the part store. Since it never triggered any engine codes I figured it was fuel. I was listening for abnormal sounds and I thought I heard a squeal from the tank area just as the car shut down the second time. Replaced the fuel pump on the side of the road with a few tools purchased at the Carquest. Didn't fix it. Check all the electrical components and all of them tested fine but this was after the shutdown. Got online and found a couple of threads mentioning the ignition switch recall. AAA towed the car to the Honda dealer in Golden where the switch was replaced. Car dies on the way home. So I started looking at the ignitor or ignition control module and coil as possible issues. I removed the wires, cap and rotor to access the coil and ignitor pack. Once I started trying to unplug the wires from the ignitor, the wires crumbled in my hands leaving bare wires. The wiring is only offered with the assembly. I replaced the entire distributor, cap and rotor for less than $300. I haven't had a problem since. It was good to have the ignition switch done so as to rule that out but ultimately it was heat stress on the wiring within the distributor.