I have fuel, why don't i have spark why

Sorry for the delay and thanks for the 'refresher' , Going by the symptoms you describe , it still sounds like a bad connection , from the amount of different items at any given time , I would start with common grounds and harness connectors , aloso , the ignition switch , was it dealer OEM or aftermarket?

After market. Your thoughts? Kent

Following this and the other post , it certainly wouldn't hurt to test all wires coming from and going to the switch for their respective signals. I don't know the running 'track record' for aftermarket switches , it was just a thought.

Hi ziptie 12.You have been a great help but I guess I just don't get it. I disconnected the fuel filter on the side closest to the pump. I figured it would tell me 2 things. If the pump worked and if the filter was plugged. In my mind it made sense, but, I don't know. When I turned it over no fuel came out of tank. Shouldn't it have? I put in another pump. Used out of Chrysler dhs or whatever. It was the correct walbro I guess.The salvage yard sold it to me and I have dealt with them in the past and never a problem. Figured I was good to go. Had my wife hit the key. Absolutely nothing had changed. No fuel, no go. Took filter off again, she turned it over. No fuel. I am 92% clear I hooked it up properly. If I did why no fuel. Do have spark. Used ether. Fired. Your thoughts please if you could. Kent It has really been up and down, you know?

Sorry to repeat , but did you , or do you have a voltmeter to use , to check the power/ground at the connector to the pump assembly? Use that , rather than just plugging in the pump! Have to make sure the pump is actually getting good power AND ground!!! Assume NOTHING..... Let me know . and PLEASE , be very careful with the ether!! Had some people used it on their Odyssey a few months ago and didn't tell us , literally blew the intake apart , if it wasn't for a single vacuum line that held it in a certain position , it would have hit me in the face!

Thanks ziptie 12. I assumed!! Did not check ground. Will do. Will let you know. I WILL back off on the ether. Thanks again. Kent Hi ziptie 12./ I took panel off in trunk and unplugged connector. I was able to read 10.98 volts by putting red in third connection depending on which side you come from but no voltage on any of the others. On that same hole i tried with red in it but this time took grd off xcar body and it read the same. Does that mean I am okay or what? Still no gas. Did not replace any sensors on intake, like map sensor. Could that make any difference. Thanks for the time. Kent

With BODY ground , did you have someone turn the key to the'crank' position a few times , while checking each of the wires at the fuel pump connector for voltage? --remember --with key in 'run' position , you should hav one wire that is constant for the gauge sender , then the other will only be hot for 2-3 seconds while cranking then it turns off , unless it sees engine RPMs (which it obviously isn't , at this time) -- if it is a 4-wire connector then 2 are for the gauge and 2 are for the pump , sorry , but I don't have a schematic to tell you which ones and what colors are which , but GENERALLY , black , or wire with black 'tracer' are grounds , and yellow/red ('hot' colors) are signal/power. Good luck.

Hi ziptie 12, I obtained voltage in only 1 wire on body ground. The pump just plain is not working. I rechecked all fuses and relays . All ok. Visual on fuses and swapped relays i knew were working in places I thought to be critical. Where does that power feed to the pump come from. I read someplace else on google that I could turn it on or off 3 times and the check engine will flash a vague 2 number code. That does not work for me and they were talking about a 97, 3.3, intrepid. Your thoughts sir? up here in Minnesota we spin our wheels alot but normally just during the long winter months. However I seem to be spinning mine now. Thanks again Ziptie 12. update. Voltage was not there as i said so i'm thinking wire break. Used to splice 250 pr underground cables so that was my natural thinking. But then i got this hair up my arse for some reason and took out pump relay. Had voltage on 30 & 87. So i jumped. Pump came on. ?? depressed schrader and got soaked so I don't think i have to test pressure. Pump is working. ??? So now i'm really freaked out. Are my injectors not firing? When i talked about ether and the car firing before i think it may have just fired once. Today i ran upon an article that said if there is a problem and the pcm doesn't want the car to run, it will shut it down after it fires one cylinder. I have no spark at my plugs again. Do you think pcm is shutting me down. As you can maybe tell my knowledge is limited but I'm not quite idiot status. My Sargent major used to jokingly say i knew just enough to be really dangerous. Hope he was kidding. Maybe not. So thats where we are at my good man. No this isn't some cruel test on the net to catch you off guard. I appreciate your time and you just need to know you are helping someone who just can't afford much at all. So all my thanks. Thoughts? Kent I did recheck all fuses again but now I am stymied.

Again , sorry for the delay , I don't check this as often as I used to. You state that when you jumped it at the relay the pump came on- That tells me the circuit is GOOD --FROM the relay to the PUMP -AND the pump is good . NOW what you need to determine is what/why the relay is not turning on the fuel pump--No signal from PCM/Ignition switch? Faulty relay? You said you only had power at 1 of the wires at the fuel pump assembly , did it come on and stay on as long as the key is in 'run' position? IF SO , then that is the signal source for the float/fuel level gauge. ---AT the relay in the fuse/relay box , with relay out , have someone turn key to 'crank' a few times and verify if the relay is being signaled or not. also ---!!! not recommended other than to prove that everything else is okay ,--WITH relay jumped , try to start car----IF it starts , then you need to troubleshoot the relay control and back to PCM(and , yes , ignition switch.

Hi ziptie. You can't be expected to monitor all the time. Remember it is your time and knowledge you offer up for free to us that try. Thanks for that. Ok, Yes ,lights only on one side in relay box w/relay out. When I crank it does dim with draw so I surmise that is irrelevant. The other side according to my test light does not come on at all. Even for a second or two while cranking. I did replace the ignition switch very long ago in the process. I think you mentioned that and I tried it. So, I am sure like sometimes happens it could be bad. But what are the chances? Just had this horrible pathetic thought. What if that was the problem from the get go and I have just been wasting my time all along with yours? Boy I sure hope not. Anyhow I am at that spot where I can't make it turn off and on while cranking. Also I have swapped out the relay with ones that work for something else like wipers and that makes no difference..Yes I also jumped relay quick to see if it started and nothing. Boy now what? Your thoughts? Thank You for taking the time. Kent Sorry, forgot to ask. Is there a way to test the ignition switch unplugged with an ohmmeter? Or do I dare to take it back and see id advance auto can check it?

Besides a test light and ohmmeter , are you also using a voltmeter? That is what would tell us more accurately what is happening at the relay terminals.

ziptie, Yes I am. With the relay yanked I read 12 volts on only 1 hole. I imagine that is the one for the gauge as it does register on the dash with key in run position. Doesn't that just leave the ignition switch in question? I was thinking with the switch out and rotating the hole that the key connected to couldn't you read it open? The reason I say that is I do have original switch yet but now that I think about it I did put the old one in and got no change. So I think that as far as the switch being a problem I guess they would both have to be bad. Not likely is it? Thanks. Kent

No , at the relay it is 12 volt constant on the switched side then when you jump that (or when the relay is 'commanded' on by the PCM) to the terminal that goes to the fuel pump then when you test the terminal at the fuel pump it should also be 12 volts. At the relay where you are measuring 12 volts . two terminals face one direction parallel with each other and the other two terminals are also parallel with each other , but perpendicular to the first two , Right? One set is the 'control'(or switch) the other is the circuit being controlled (to the fuel pump) , I think , for whatever reason , the 'control' side of that is not working. Hope I'm not confusing you more , sorry.

okay, I have tried to communicate 3 times today and lost each one before I could send. The just: I do understand. Thanks. As I sat on the seat last night with things hanging it reminded me that I had THIS car to a shop a few years ago(for what reason I can't even remember) with 2 guys. 1 dodge tech. 1 GM tech. Many years exp. When I came to check on my car the dodge tech seemed to be frustrated a bit and everything was hanging there, including steering wheel. When I came back that night he said it was fixed but just to be safe don't use 4 ways. Never thought much of it as I knew them for years. However I have never used the 4 ways since.Last night it came back to me.Does the power come into the switch, triggered by the key and then go to pcm to make the command. Am I assuming again? Could something have come back to haunt me in there? Thoughts? Thank You. Kent

Do you by chance have an iPhone? _ got to go out for a while , but I'll check for an answer later (6-7P.M.) I'm in Northern Va. area/West Virginia panhandle , so time zone I think is the same.

Hi ziptie. I have a smart phone, no iphone. Is there a difference, oh darn, forgot mine is locked up. My son has an ipod. The #1-507-402-3704. My regular email is wkreichl@charter.net. My fax # is 1-507-373-4238. I was hoping that one of the wires that plugged into the ignition switch were the same color that went to relay box but I see I'm not that lucky. But of course there are numbers and letters at the male plugs in the ignition switch. Like A1,A2,B1,B2,S,L,K,P I and G. Is there anyplace that I can find out what goes to what or am I out of luck? Don't waste any money if it costs you to get in touch. Just let me know. Thanks, Kent Just in case my droid unlocks and charges my cell is 1-507-383-3434. Always have thought that sounded like a Mopar #.

Cool , let me see what other info I can dig up at work - might be able to find something helpful on alldata-- and I'll post what I will do. IF calling will maybe help clarify some of the stuff , I will do that , and I will give you advance notice ( and I want to be sure it's when you are able to mess with the car).

Man that is really awesome. I can't tell you how much I appreciate your going up and above to assist me. I will be here. Thank You much. Kent Oh and by the way, I am located in MinnesNota.

Just to keep in the loop , ended up in the hospital briefly and won't be back at work til at least Thursday 7/23 found out I got bursitis in my left hip...Thought it was just arthritis and toughed it out for the last 3 months , got almost unbearable Sunday.........This car shit has not been good to my body!!! Or anyone elses' that does it for a living!....in the mean time , I'm going to ponder that "don't use the 4-ways" thing , and if you remember anything else , post it!

That is a drag. Standing, twisting, leaning has to be very difficult anyway. How long you been doing this? I would , guess, all your life, How long is that. Our best to you and get better. I suppose your up at 5, walk, lay down, take res. Then meal then up, then rest Take it easy and let them wait on you hand and foot.. If you have time down the road then get in touch if you. Concentrate , on you right now. Thanks for bringing me to speed and get better. Kent