Seeking help! Why does my blower resistor keep going out? Please help!
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I had the piggytail wiring replaced in 2010 and a week later I had to replace the risitor as well because it blew out. The it blew about a month later and I had to have the resisitor replaced again, so a week ago it happened again, heater blower started only working on high, heate would blow cold, then warm, and then about two days late , now air at all from the blower on the heater once again, this also controls the AC air , so now air at al of any kind once again! I am really getting angry that I have to keep having the same damn thing replaced on my Durango, is there something that keeps causing this to happen, beside the numerous other people that have this curse with their Durango as well, but I really want to get this fixed so that it saty fixed and I am not forking out 300- 500 dollars ever 12 to 13 months! Please help me
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I finally found the simple solution and ultimately the actual cause to the issue of the blower resistor burning out and over-heating the plug wiring - The blower motor itself is the culprit! After years of replacing the blown resister module 3 to 4 a year, I finally bit the bullet and bought a new blower fan/motor. After pulling out the old blower motor I compared the 'ease' of turning/spinning each one. The old original blower motor had a noticeable 'drag' to it which I surmise was due years of wear, tear, and build-up of crud around the bearings and shaft. I easily (4 or 5 screw and a plug) installed the new blower motor and all has been well ever since. No more smelling of burnt/burning wiring insulation, no more not being able to use the 'low' setting of the blower speed, and best of all, no more replacing the heater resistor. So my simple answer is to simply spend the few extra bucks and by a new blower motor and install it. Happy happy happy !
Thank you so much for sharing your story with me , and as we speak right now I am as you said "Biting the bullet" and having a new blower motor installed and the pigtail and the resistor, so I should be in good space for a while, or at least I am praying after replacing all of these things that this issue of having to replace resistors and pigtail wiring will be at an end finally!!! Again, thank you for getting back and for sharing your experiences and thoughts and suggestions! "Happy Heating and cooling to us all"
well...i have done all of the above...at one point the blower motor was bad...brushes worn out...replaced....then it happened again...so i have done this 4 times now....wires were getting hot so i sodered all of the connections including the two leads to the motor....worked for awhile then failed again...was getting real hot on highest(5) speed so i just used 4 and three mostly ...failed again....found a burned pin connection....third from right(first time there)...just replaced again...Advance Auto did refund and provide one more...my guess is a ''Gm" design flaw and all aftermarket suppliers are just building theirs with original specs and no one is truly addressing the issue...one more time and it is a bypass w/fuse...so then it will be either on or off but i may try the ground things as mentioned in one of the posts
Thank you so much for sharing your story with me , and as we speak right now I am as you said "Biting the bullet" and having a new blower motor installed and the pigtail and the resistor, so I should be in good space for a while, or at least I am praying after replacing all of these things that this issue of having to replace resistors and pigtail wiring will be at an end finally!!! Again, thank you for getting back and for sharing your experiences and thoughts and suggestions! "Happy Heating and cooling to us all"
You are overloading the resistor. I would replace the blower motor. In the future, the cardinal rule should be when you replace one, replace the other
well...i have done all of the above...at one point the blower motor was bad...brushes worn out...replaced....then it happened again...so i have done this 4 times now....wires were getting hot so i sodered all of the connections including the two leads to the motor....worked for awhile then failed again...was getting real hot on highest(5) speed so i just used 4 and three mostly ...failed again....found a burned pin connection....third from right(first time there)...just replaced again...Advance Auto did refund and provide one more...my guess is a ''Gm" design flaw and all aftermarket suppliers are just building theirs with original specs and no one is truly addressing the issue...one more time and it is a bypass w/fuse...so then it will be either on or off but i may try the ground things as mentioned in one of the posts