My 1993 Dakota with 79240 miles starts sometimes and won't sometimes.

What is the latest on this issue? I have a 1992 Dakota LE Ext Cab(318, 4x4, automatic, 225,000 miles) that does the same thing, and has been doing this for a couple of years. It will run fine for a month or two and then not run at all for a week or so. It is definitely a "no spark" problem (I have tried spraying starting fluid into the intake and it will not start). I have changed all the sensors and computer (some more than once). Operating temperature does not seem to affect the timing of WHEN it happens. Sometimes it will die while driving down the road, then remain dead for a few days, then run normal for a day/week/month. Other times I will use it all day, park it over night and then it will not start the next day. I will wait a day or two (or 3) and then it will magically start and run normally.

I would have done what you did and verify fuel pressure when the engine won't start. "listen" to the fuel injector. Using a mechanic's stethoscope (or use a long screw driver placing the handle end up to your ear place the metal tip end of the screwdriver against the body of the fuel injector), get a friend to crank over the engine while you "listen" to the fuel injector listen to each injector at the same point of the injector body. You should hear "click, click, click" as the injector is electrically opened and closed by the computer. If the injector is not being triggered you will not have fuel getting into the engine's cylinders. Disconnect the electrical connector at the fuel injector with the ignition key in the "on" position, (next position after the accessory position) you should have 12 volts at one of the two wires at the injector. This true for most vehicles but you need to consult a workshop manual for your vehicle to see that this is true for your vehicle. When the engine is running the second wire at the injector gets (triggered) grounded by the computer in your vehicle many times a second controlling exactly when and how much fuel gets injected into the engine. It's hard to just guess without being able to experience the engine and doing some basic diagnostic tests. There is a company that independent auto repair shops get their information from, this same information is available inexpensively for people that work on their own cars.. The information is year make and model specific, covering repair procedures, torque specifications, fluid capacities and specifications, service bulletins, component locations, wiring diagrams ect.... Alldata is very easy to navigate http://bit.ly/AllData_Repair_Manuals_Online

I had SAME PROBLEM when I heard offhand from shop manager his kid's car computer had a HAIRLINE crack in computer block of plastic. If he poured cold water from hose on cpu it would contract and make internal connection and start engine. I checked= same Dx. There is a GREAT GUY on e-bay who will exchange your broken cpu for a repaired cpu WITH A TIME GUARANTEE ! If your cpu checks out aok he only charges you for cpu test. Sorry I don't have his e-mail but his computer is still running my Dakota 92 4X4 long bed 3.9 after 5+ years AND I saved at least 150. Sincerely Jim,,eng builder 50 years

well people i had the same problem with my 93 dodge 5.2 and after hours of disappointment i used a little of my schooling and rememberd about the map sensor after testing i found it was not working propeerly so i replaced it with a new one and the problem of shuting off went away but i am still looking for the cause of the hard start i have done voltage drop test on the coil and wiring but have not found the problem yet it seems like i may have a bad switch because i can bump the starter and sometimes it will start after a half of a revalution and ruyn fine other times it starts and will not accept the gas feed but if i stop and re styart by bumping it and when it starts and the computer takes over to idel it runs fine but the shut down problem is gone

Has anyone checked the Ign. switch on the steering column?