What is your question?
Sequence of problem.
Began misfire 50 mi. from home. Check engine light been on for a week. Visual inspection. Open radiator. Low, small bubbles. Fill before driving home. Temp is higher than normal
Drove home, 5 miles out misfire stops
Next morning, starts normally. Starts misfire after warming up. Check radiator after filling reservoir. No bubbles now.
Same next day. Decide to change plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Discover fans aren't working.
Change out front bank plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Decide to start and test drive. Engine runs smooth, but retarded, lack of power.
Remove windshield wiper linkage pan, serpentine belt and alternator
Change out rear bank plugs and wires.
Reinstall alternator, replace serpentine belt.
Decide to test start before reinstalling wiper linkage pan. Get no start.
Test for spark with special spark tester
All plugs and coil have 1/2" spark
Decide no fuel to engine is problem
Where to begin testing. Have dig multimeter and years with mechanic dad.
What makes this problem better or worse?
Nothing
How long has your 2000 Dodge Caravan had this problem?
Two weeks
Hello. Thanks for replying. Just found I could reply. Ok, reviewed, inspected previous work. Checked wire/ vacuum hose connections. Found nothing. But did a few tests. Made sure rotor actually rotating. Retest for spark. Every plug/coil, ok. Then removed rubber air intake duct from throttle body, opened throttle plate, first squirted brake cleaner and crank engine. No start. Then tried Starter fluid. No start. This has me completely baffled. As the fuel filter/pump are difficult to access, especially fuel line connectors, given the no start with spark and manual fuel insert... I don't see the point now. Something completely foreign to my logic is occurring and I haven't got a clue now. Only thing that comes to mind, are the new plug wire connectors, which have an "angled" connector. They are very difficult to insert on the plugs. Can't feel a *snap* onto plug. Feel loose..very easy to pull out of recess. However, my spark test was with a DIY spark tester made from plug which I removed the "L" thingy, and cut back threaded portion `1/2". Clear view of strong spark, which should jump even if connector not fully engaged on plug. I'm baffled. Will wait for your suggestion. Thank you.
p.s. In regards to the exhaust gas in cooling system, as I explained earlier, when the misfire problem first raised it's head, I checked radiator, and coolant was low. Couldn't see it. However, there was small bubbles. I added coolant directly into radiator instead of reservoir. The next day, it dawned on me, perhaps, because reservoir was empty, system was sucking air from reservoir instead of coolant. I then filled reservoir, drove to town and back. Began misfire after engine warmed up above normal. Checked radiator again with engine running. Could see coolant flowing...and NO bubbles whatsoever. However, haven't had time to delve into fan problem. Too busy with engine start first. God I hate modern cars. :)