2001 Chrysler Town & Country engine keeps shutting off on me while driving (seems to be common on Chryslers)

Sounds like you have a wiring harness issue with your 2001 Dodge Town & Country van. A common place for the engine harness to chafe is around the left front wheel housing and in front of the transmission as this are is constantly torquing with the driveline during acceleration and slowing down. Inspect this area carefully. This harness goes to the PCM.

did you find out what this was having the same problem with my 2003 town and country

I know it sounds simple and maybe you have already thought of it but my old van use to cut off ALL the time, espicially if I stopped. After 6 months we realized the battery just wasn't connected very well. Might be worth a shot.

I've been having a similar problem with my 2003 Town and Country. It stalls when I put it into drive, before I press the gas pedal and also when I'm at a stop and am ready to give it gas again. My mechanic cleaned the throttle body and it didn't stall for about a week, then it started up again. The second time my mechanic checked it, he couldn't find anything wrong and said not to keep the gas too low in the tank (I brought it in with less than 1/4). So now I keep the gas above 1/2 tank and it still stalls! I don't know what to do at this point...

it did happen to my car several times but when i replace the throttle position sensor, the problem was gone.

I wish I would have found this site before I purchase my 2010. I drove the care off the lot with only 6 miles. I really didn't know if I was ready to become a score mom at the age of 29, but my kids and I like to go out and have fun and would like to have space to bring other kids along, so for my 3 kids I become a score mom. I am not really handy with car nor do want to be stuck on the side of the road waiting for help so wanted to purchase a new car with a good warranty. I went to the dealership in Orlando Sand lake and john young. The sale was so nice took me to some use cars and try to sell me one. I told him that I didn't want to have a user and have not clue what the last owner did to it. I told him I wanted a new car some that wont break down on me and if some was to happen to a new car it would be covered under warranty. I am really glad that I went new. ( I shouldn't have purchase at all ) In Oct /2009. after about 1month of looking at cars I drove my van off the lot with about 6miles, and became a score mom. I had the car only little over 1 week and had about 100 miles on the car and I started to hear the breaks squeal. I didn't think that it was my car becuz I had a 2010 Town and Country from Chrysler = shyster) but the car next to me. The next stop it happen again but no car was next to me so I start to tap the breaks and no way it was me. My breaks were and still are squealing. I called the dealer and was like my breaker are squealing. THE DEALER SAID THAT THE BREAK ARE SUPPOSE TO SQUEAL GIVE IT A COUPLE OF DAYS TO BREAK THEM IN. three days later it was worst. THEN I WAS TOLD THAT THEY WILL SQUEAL IN THE RAIN. I don't know anyone that will buy a car that the break are suppose to squeal. Come on you look at the car next to you like what the hell is wrong with them they need to get the breaks check. If the breaks make noise when they are good what do you suppose to do take the car to the dealer every month to get the break becuz the squeal this month not be the right squeal. I told them that I wanted to have someone look at the breaks. I take the car in and guess what the car with about 200 miles on it had RUSTY BREAKS. They change them out THE CAR MUST HAVE BEEN SITTING TOO LONG.. Really I got a 2010 in 2009 how long is too long. Come on really. That was the least of my problems. Next issue I had with the car was I would start the car and it would turn off I start it again and it would turn I let it sit for a min and turn it on again. Finally I was able to drive of in my new 2010 town and country. I went the dealer and they ask me if I had gas in that car. I don't think that I would have came to the dealer if I was out of gas and the car wouldn't start. IT MAYBE THE KEYS SO THEY PROGRAMMED MY KEYS. A day late the car shut off again and again. I take it back and they said the CAR NEEDED AN UPDATE. Now after the update not only does the car shut off after it starts up it shuts off while drive. First it started at about 2-3 mph then it was 10-15 mph now we are at 35-40 mps time after time I take this car back to the dealer stated that there are no codes in the system so they don't see anything that they could do. The door will open and close like something is stuck in the door. I take in and it needs another UPDATE.. The lock on the driver side doors will not lock you have to press it about 6-10x for it will lock Oh and don't forget the dealer tell you about the lemon law like it easy. After 3 repair attempts they will buy your car back. The lemon law is just another way to make consume to pay for big company mistake. Only about 10% of the people actual win when they fight the manufacture of the cars. I have even ask for a co pilot so a system can record everything that is happening while it is happening. They tell me it wont fit on the new 2010. Then they said that they will use on that cant leave the dealer something like a co-pilot but not really. Do you think they found any codes after keep my car for over 3days. No but as soon as I drove it home it shut of while driving at about 50mph. Why would anyone what to keep going to the dealer if nothing was wrong with the van. I have to work and kids and school. The sad part about this is that this has been going on since 1996 models base on some of the web posting. I have so much to say about this, but to make longer story short. DO NOT BUY A TOWN AND COUNTRY THIS ARE THE ISSUES I AM HAVING WITH MY MINES. MY RATING FOR THIS CAR IS A NEG 10 Tire light Door locks Automatic doors Breaks Start up Shutting off while driving

I had the same symptons on my 3.8 ltr Town & Country. There are multiple sensors going to the PCM. I tried to narrow the problem to ignition or fuel. The PCM controls both. After replacing the Crankshaft position sensor and Camshaft position sensor with no fix, I replaced the PCM. Went online and ordered a "rebuilt" PCM. Didn't want to pay the price for a new one. They required year, mileage, and model to program it to my van. Received, installed, problem fixed!! Van has run perfect ever since. Just had to take the van to the dealer to have the replaced PCM flashed to remove "Check Eng Light"

ok,i am no mechanic by any means. LOl but here is my story. I had a 70's for econoline cargo van. it may have had back seats at one time but not sure. anyways it would start up fine. and this was way back 14 or so years ago. so im just telling you the facts that i member. if im not sure if it was doing something i wont even mention it. soooo..... it started up just fine and drove fine, then it seemed when it warmed up it shut off. no start untill it cooled down 5 or so min. i tried everything. and computers were not in my lifestyle then. lol finally after it sat one year and talking to a hundred people my uncle in law has owned one of those his hole life. he lives for them. he said its simple 2 bolts. just go to your auto parts store and tell them you need a black box. yea wtf. well sure enough it worked. now if im wrong, i did say that im no mechanec!!! good luck man.

A very common problem on the T&C is a bad solder on the instrument cluster. This is what was wrong with mine. It would stall, the speedometer & gages would quit. I could start it, it would run for a bit and stall again. I would try it three times and then it wouldnt even crank over. First thought it was the starter/alternator/battery, or some combination. After sitting for a day, it started right up and worked fine for a few weeks. Then it happened again, same scenario exactly. I did some research and there are ALOT of threads about the cluster being bad and needing replaced. I got a quote of ~$1000 to replace it!!! I ended up taking the dash apart, removing the cluster and taking the circuit board to a electrical repair shop. The soldered the board for $40, I reinstalled it in about 15 minutes, and the problem is solved. By the way, when I had the instrument cluster out of the van, it would run fine, I just couldnt tell how fast I was going or if I was on 'E'.

here is the main problem........you own a mopar ... i learned my lesson i owned three (all three were garbage ,one was brand new total crap)...they have hav tons of problens for years , there junk.....buy a ford .......