What is your question?
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What is your question?
I typically put the A/T in neutral as the tach passes 1000 RPM while stopping. If I don't put it back in Drive at least about 4-5 seconds before starting off, the engine will lose power when I open the throttle. At less than about 35 MPH, the engine RPM often wavers as if I were modulating the throttle. The car decelerates as the RPM drops, which convinces me it's not the transmission changing the load on the engine. It has plenty of power when climbing hills or accelerating on the interstate.
Will do. Does the propane trick (vent gas from a propane torch around the vacuum connections and listen for an RPM change) work on EFI engines, or would the control loop compensate before I could notice?
Yikes....just spray some carb. cleaner on the lines and listen for an engine surge. Safer that way.
OK. I also seem to have a sticky valve in the brake booster. Pedal feels like there's no power boost until I reach a certain pressure, then suddenly I get the boost. Maybe my vacuum leak is in there. That's next week's project... Thanks!