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What is your question?
The wipers would work sometimes but when they wouldn't I turned them on high, then they would work. Lately I had to force the arms for them to work. Now nothing! I understand most of the problems with the wipers are the Pulse boards getting corroded?
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Google part # for picture. Wiper Motor Pulse Board - Front - New $ 21.49 /ea *Part Number: 49737PB* Product Line: NAPA Electrical Motors
Whew,, just finished replacing mine.. (1994 Chevy G20) I had the same problem! Mine had some type of red oil/gunk all over it, the contacts were worn down too! This isn't hard, just very time consuming!!! 4-5hrs min!! -- DISCONNECT THE BATTERY -- Bright lights will help you see under the dash!! 1st. remove engine cover(gives you more room to work). 2nd. remove the dash(at least enough to get under it with your hands and provide visual). You will have to undo the speedo cluster. If you have big hands its going to be a little harder(I do). The board is located with the motor. It is held in place by 3 small torx screws. I used a 1/4 drive with 3 - 6" extensions and a universal joint with the torx bit. I put electrical tape around the u-joint to keep it from flopping around! The electrical connection clip is on the left side, remove the connection BEFORE you undo the screws! The motor/board is located against the firewall, between the engine compartment and the steering column area. You do not have to remove the wiper motor!!!! Once you can see the black cover, the rest will be obvious if you are mechanically inclined. I used some silicone sealant to help hold things in place ( put some on the alignment slot area of the board and the top edge of the cover - let it dry until its very tacky - it will stay in place better!) I wish you luck, its time consuming!!! Not hard! Mine work fine now!!
Just finished changing mine in a "95 G20 Sport Van. What a job. I used a flexible bit drive extension. Very handy. I gained access to to the torx screws through holes in the lower dash. The lower dash covers have to be removed. I removed the instrument cluster (not sure if that needs to be removed, maybe just to let light in). Also, I found it necessary to remove the driver's seat and the pedestal to get under there enough to see. The seat comes right off with four nets. The pedestal, on the other hand, was a bear. Four larage, long studs with the nut on the under side of the van. Very rusty and hard to turn. But, for me it had to come out. Once I got under there enouth to see that the circut board plug fits into a slot it was a game changer. Once in the slot the board will stay in place by it's self. I left the top right tork screw in the housing so I could slip the cover in place using that secrw as a guid. Tighten that screw down and the cover will stay in place. I then put in the middle screw, then the last. After it was all installed I pluged the electrical conecter in. I left the conecter in place till after the poard was removed. Much easier. It works great. It took all day, not fun but it's doable. I've been told it would cost around $600 to pay a machinic to to the job.