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if i don't turn off all electrical components before i turn my car off meaning take charger out cig lighter and manually turn radio off even though when doors open it shuts off at times when my base hits hard its like it knocks the battery out cause my car shuts down for two seconds and comes back to life.......it also seems to hesitate when i start it and it starts at a very low temp,its around 135 to 140 and lets out white smoke from time to time when i start it up it also lets off a little smoke when i punch it from time to time but its not sweet it all most smells like gas more so than coolant........after driving for 15 minutes the check engine light comes on at the 30 40 min mark of straight driving its at 220 to 235 but it never completely over heats at lights its cools right off could be the a.z summers.....I've only changed the upper radiator hose due to a leak.....a previous mechanic also told me i had a very slight crack in head gasket but no need to fix i just needed k&w block sealer and i did use a block sealer but i used the one that works with all coolant so i didn't have to drain and flush the hole system......and last but not least it idles kinda rough the dial jerks between the 1000 rpm mark and shutting off but has only done that once and only since my subs were put in, the car it self isn't to jumpy but it has a slight hick up........as of a couple days ago it started to tell me to change trans fluid, with that said it has a rough transition from first to second at about 30 35 and on it drives great no problems it also takes a second to drop in to first from park, I'm going to service trans today and hopefully it changes its attitude from park to 30.......but i wonder is my head gasket blown because i didn't do the 24 hr sealer.....are is it working the fuel injector cleaner and block sealer through the system, it was sitting for to yrs before i purchased it less than a month ago it has 155k mile on it and other than i no the problem but i just need help with this one....ha ha please someone help my lac
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regarding subs, i believe your amp is drawing too much from your battery. battery may be in the beggining stages of getting a dead cell or is just on its way out. I would try a new battery with very high cold cranking amps to handle the intermittent surges. I also would add a capacitor (coil) to your sound system. contact local stereo shop and they will get you correct one based on amount of ohm's, impediance, constant actuall amps based on voltage draw. amps say 1000 (500 watts RM), that means (rms) how much continuous power the amo can deliver on avg.. so with the capacitor, t will manage the draw from amp into a continuous flow at i believe smaller surges and converts that into more at the amp input, or help add to the battery draw. lol, its late. as for the car turning off, that might go away after doing this fix. your car can not operate on voltage that low, proly around 6-8 when your stereo is on. and the louder you play it the more it draws. i bet your head lights dim with every thump huh. i will almost guarantee your system will be louder and cleaner after this upgrade as well. it's like using a cordless drill. as the battery goes dead it starts to turn slower and slower. and especially when you start to screw or drill something, anything that puts it under a load, it drrrroooooowwwwwwwnnnnnnsssss dddooooowwwwnnnn. good luck, if the battery and capacitor upgrade doesn't fix the idle and stalling problem, let me know, i shoud have some help for that.