What is your question?
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What is your question?
My "check coolant level" display keeps showing eve thou my coolant level is above the full mark. Not sure but i recently changed my water pump and i thought that might make it stop coming on . also i changed the coolant reservoir about 2 months ago and i'm still getting this reading. what do you think it is ?
2 Replies
Are you sure that the thermostat is opening? If you let the car run to operating temp, does it get hotter and then suddenly cool down? If so, the thermostat is sticking and needs to be replaced. Put your hand on the radiator hose while the engine is warm. Use a shop towel that is wrapped in a way that it won't get caught in the fan to grip the hose. If the engine is at operating temp and you can't squeeze the hose much that is another sign that the thermostat is sticking. If the hose compresses, the coolant is moving through the thermostat. hope help.
It is unlikely to be the thermostat. The "Check Coolant Level" issue in this series of Cadillac is fairly well known to be a sticking coolant level sensor float or a bad coolant level sensor (in the coolant surge tank on the left side of engine bay, facing the car). The former issue is common when knotheads use coolant tabs. The latter issue is just a natural consequence of aging plastic parts. The standard GM method of correction is to replace the entire coolant tank (AC Delco #19129961, about $125 on eBay). Although GM swears it is not possible, some folks have had luck replacing just the sensor with a GM #FLS16 Coolant Level Sensor (about $13 on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Coolant-Level-Sensor-Standard-FLS-16-/331733944237 ). The FLS16 sensor is reported to be slightly longer requiring more care when reconnecting the harness plug. Related message thread: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-deville-1985-2005-including-1985/231011-2003-deville-check-coolant-level-warning.html
Ach! My bad. I missed where you just replaced the tank (which would have automatically come with a new sensor). Sorry. Okay. Two possibilities I see: (1) Contamination of new tank, and (2) an electrical problem. (1) Did you flush the entire cooling system (engine block, radiator, etc.)? Since you just replaced the coolant tank (which would have come with a new sensor) it is unlikely to be the sensor. However, it is possible that the gunk circulating in the cooling system just found it's way into your new tank and jammed up the sensor float. The next step would to flush the new tank and ensure the float is both moving and activating the sensor properly. Clamp off the hose to the radiator and disconnect it from the coolant tank (capture the escaping coolant as best you can). Then remove the tank and flush it with clean water. Make sure the coolant level sensor float is moving freely (and more flushing while the float is moving about). Connect an ohmmeter* to the sensor and made sure the float is activating the sensor as it moves up and down. Reinstall the tank, reconnect the hose from the radiator, take the clamp off, refill the tank to the proper level and see if the problem is gone. If not ... (2) Since we tested the switch in (1) it is possible that all the manipulating of the harness has damaged the plug / harness in some way. Now you'll need schematics (good luck) and some troubleshooting skills. * CAUTION: Do NOT use a regular test tool (battery, bulb and sharp prod) as this sensor uses a reed switch which will likely get damaged using simple lamp-based test tools. An ohmmeter set to check continuity (ohms) is the safest way to test whether or not the sensor is opening / closing as the float (magnet inside) passes over it.