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What is your question?
Hello, I have a 1997 Buick Park Avenue without super charger (non Ultra). Upon driving it stalled and I have since found the problem to be the fuel pump. Finding mixed messages online regarding the access panel being in the trunk, and some saying the gas tank needs to be removed. Seems the vehicle had the access panel installed in the trunk right around 1996, 1997 or 1998, this I am unsure and wish to know from anyone who has done this work on this vehicle before. I also plan to install the optional Super Charger, for the engine was replaced recently with one that only has 2k miles on it essentially making it a brand new car, if anyone knows of a good model, place of business to purchase I would be very appreciative with both information. Thank you very much in advance, Sincerely, Robert Note this is vehicle is a California model.
What makes this problem better or worse?
Doesn't start, starter fluid will for a brief second
How long has your 1997 Buick Park Avenue had this problem?
One Week
1 Reply
From 'Just Answers' : Q - How to get to fuel pump on 1997 Buick Park Avenue--3.8 A - Relieve the fuel system fuel pressure. Drain the fuel tank to no more than 1/4 of a tank full. Remove the spare tire cover, ,jack, and the spare tire. Pull back the trunk liner. Important : For rear compartment (trunk) accessible fuel sender assemblies, completely remove the rear compartment carpet before removing the fuel sender access panel. Remove the fuel sender access panel (1). Clean all of the fuel pipe connections, all of the hose connections, and all of the areas surrounding the connections before disconnecting the connections in order to avoid possible contamination of the fuel system. Remove the quick-connect fittings at the fuel sender assembly. Remove the electrical connector at the fuel sender. IMPORTANT : When removing the modular fuel sender assembly from the fuel tank, the reservoir bucket on the fuel sender assembly is full of fuel. The fuel sender assembly must be tipped slightly during removal in order to avoid damage to the float. Place any remaining fuel into an approved container once the fuel sender assembly is removed from the tank. Remove the fuel sender retaining ring using the J 39675 Fuel Sender Spanner Wrench or equivalent. Remove the fuel sender assembly retaining cam, using the J 39675 Fuel Sender Spanner Wrench or equivalent. Remove the fuel sender assembly and the O-ring from the fuel tank. Discard the fuel sender assembly O-ring. Clean the fuel sender assembly O-ring sealing surfaces. Inspect the fuel sender assembly O-ring sealing surfaces Pete Pete, Buick Technician Category: Buick Satisfied Customers: 30,552 Experience: 17 years Buick Technician experience and training. Verified
As for adding a supercharger - a compatible ECM and applicable electronics plus engine mechanical parts (cylinder heads just for one example) will have to be replaced also .. Really not sure the *bottom end of the engine* can withstand the added stress .. I’m thinking the transmission will need an up-grade as well. While anything is possible - in reality - not a ‘reasonable’ modification (IMO) the choice is strictly yours. I feel sure you can find some *Buick forums* online that will go into more details.
Thank you, I've read this most likely from another post and I just wanted to be sure. I appreciate the reassurance of the hatch in the trunk. Is there anything else I should replace at this time such as the fuel relay or fuse, apologies if I'm saying these wrong, my father is a mechanic and would know these terms, I'm still learning.
Just the fuel pump module (assembly) and the fuel filter.
Ah, I really didn't think about any of this, I was under the impression that because the vehicle came with the option of a super charger one could be purchased and someone such as my father who is a very good mechanic would be able to install it. What I'm gathering is that there is a big difference between the Park Avenue and the Park Avenue Ultra with the super charger, I'm assuming a larger engine (I saw some V6 engines with a 3.5L and a 3.8L, assuming the 3.8L would be needed.) And didn't know a different transmission would be needed, but it does make sense because the ratio for the gears (in my understanding) would need to be different to handle the super charger. I guess I was just thinking because it is visual where the super charger connects to the vehicle, and researching how it drops in and everything seems to be there, it isn't that simple. It would be more cost effective to make all Buick Park Avenue vehicles with or without the super charger to have the components that are needed to install a super charger to save on cost so that there are not two different designs. But if a super charger was placed into a Park Avenue that is not classified as the Ultra edition with even a computer calibrating it, even if it fits perfectly, doesn't mean the engine and transmission (even though these components have the mounts and could conceivably fit right in) would need the larger engine, different transmission and most likely other parts that I haven't even thought of. The vehicle is my Grandmother's and suffered an accident from a drunk driver who plowed into her at a traffic light. Fortunately because she was stopped at the light and the vehicle that crashed into her was not going that fast, the car was salvageable and you can't even tell it was ever involved in an accident. Sadly though my Grandmother suffered injuries from the crash. If only we would stop driving high or drunk because we think we will be fine. The engine replaced only has 2,000 miles on it, with a total of 5k at most, and it wasn't driven that much after a second Buick was purchased, whereby it was used as a town car. I bring this up because having a vehicle that is from 1997 with only 5k on the odometer is quite impressive. I have a 98 V6 Camry hat I would love to install a turbo but I think because the engine has 140k miles the engine would die pretty quickly. I was thinking of selling the Camry and possibly purchasing something for the Buick, originally a super charger, but seeing the problems here, would a small turbo be worth it? I'm willing to spend about $1K to $1.5k, if anyone has a turbo in mind that would fit the vehicle nicely, along with possibly a racing air filter or any other component that would give the vehicle boost, please let me know and very appreciative for anyone who has read this and responds. One final note: My only other complaint about the car is the switches on the front seats have broke and hang on the sides by the doors. Seems to be a bad design, does anyone know of a website that provides a fix, or new replacement pieces. The seats still work fine electrically, it is just the component that houses the buttons that control the seats and are meant to be clipped and screwed on the side of each front seat have snapped and broken off, would epoxy and a glue gun be better and make it more secure if this is a common issue with this vehicle. Thank you to all!
Permatex *adhesive* silicone sealant - comes in clear or black - part # 80050 for clear - part # 81158 for black - available @ Walmart. This stuff will bond ANYTHING! .... Not to be confused with silicone RTV gasket maker.. Read instructions. Good luck with the repairs!