I have a problem with my breaks

I did. The pedal was going almost all the way to the floor-which is why I took it to the repair shop and he found the cracked cylinder and replaced it. The brake once you release it still makes a squeak noise and the repair guy told me that when he test drove it he was still seeing a problem with the ABS system which he suggested I take back to the dealer for repair and could cost a $1k or more to dismantle and diagnose and repair the system. This just seems so much for a car so young. Is it really worth the repair dollars or should I just look at another option?

WHAT I MEANT WAS HAVE YOU HAD ANY OTHER REPAIRS MADE TO THE VEHICLE PREVIOUS TO THIS ONE? DID HE TELL YOU WHY THE CYLINDER WAS CRACKED? WITH RESPECT TO THE ABS SYSTEM, DID HE SAY WHAT HE THOUGHT WAS WRONG? I WANT TO HELP YOU BUT I WOULD REALLY NEED A LITTLE MORE INFORMATION

He didn't tell me what caused the cylinder to crack. And this is the 1st major repair I have had on the car. Everything else has been routine maintenance. Regarding the ABS he said when he test drove the car after replacing the master cylinder is when he noticed that the ABS was not kicking in and he tried to diagnosis it but it would require for him to open up more than he could do and that it would be better to take it back to the dealer to hopefully see if it maybe under warranty.

OKAY, BEFORE YOU TAKE IT TO THE DEALER I HAVE A COUPLE OF QUESTIONS: FIRST, DID YOU PURCHASE THE MERC NEW OR USED? AND SECOND, IS THE ABS WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATED WHEN YOU ARE DRIVING IT? NOW I WILL EXPLAIN. IF YOU ARE NOT THE ORIGINAL OWNER, IT IS POSSIBLE THE WARRANTY COVERAGE IS NO LONGER IN EFFECT. THOUGH I WILL SAYTHAT IF YOU ARE INSISTENT, THEY WILL PROBABLY SLIDE IT IN BASED ON THE FACT THAT IT'S A SAFETY ITEM AND ALSO BECAUSE DEALERSHIPS LIKE POOR CUSTOMER SATISFACTION SURVEYS ABOUT AS MUCH AS WEREWOLVES LIKE SILVER BULLETS. AS FAR AS THE ABS IS CONCERNED, MOST SYSTEMS WILL RUN A SELF-TEST AT ABOUT 6 MPH UPON EVERY KEY CYCLE. IF THE ABS COMPUTER SEES A FAULT, IT WILL SET A CODE AND THE WARNING LAMP WILL BE TURNED ON. THE LAMP WILL REMAIN LIT UNTIL THE KEY IS TURNED OFF UPON WHICH TIME THE SYSTEM NORMALLY RESETS AND NEXT START-UP THE SELF-TEST WILL RUN AT ABOUT 6 MPH. IF THE WARNING LAMP IS NOT ILLUMINATED, THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE ABS. THE ONLY EXCEPTIONS TO THIS ARE WHEN THE BULB IN THE DASH BEHIND THE ABS STENCIL HAS BURNED OUT, OR POSSIBLY IF THE MODULE IS NO GOOD. EASIEST WAY TO CHECK THIS IN MOST CASES WILL BE TO TURN THE KEY ON AND WATCH FOR THE ABS LAMP--YELLOW OR RED I THINK---THE LAMP SHOULD ILLUMINATE FOR APPROXIMATELY 6 SECONDS, THEN IT WILL TURN OFF. IF THE LAMP IS INDEED TURNED ON, WHAT I WOULD DO IS GO TO THE DEALER AND PARK WHERE THE SERVICE ADVISERS CANNOT SEE YOUR VEHICLE,. WALK IN AND ASK ONE OF THEM TO PROVIDE YOU A COPY OF THE SERVICE HISTORY REPORT (MAKE SURE IT SHOWS ALL WARRANTY REPAIRS OR MAINTENANCE), AND ALSO ASK TO TAKE A LOOK AT THE WARRANTY COVERAGE ON YOUR VEHICLE; ALL THEY SHOULD NEED IS SOME SPECIFIC PORTION OF THE VIN . ALSO, MOST SERVICE ADVISERS AND MANAGERS KEEP A WARRANTY COVERAGE QUICK-CHECK REFERENCE GUIDE WITHIN ARMS REACH. NOW, YOU SAID YOU HAVE A SQUEAK FROM THE BRAKES. MOST OFTEN, A BRAKE SQUEAK IS RELATED TO BRAKE DUST ACCUMULATION ON THE SURFACE OF THE PAD THAT CAUSES A HIGH FREQUENCY VIBRATION AGAINST THE ROTOR SURFACE . HOWEVER, IF THE SQUEAK IS PRESENT WITHOUT THE PEDAL PRESSED, IT MAY BE THE INDICATOR TAB WHICH IS MOUNTED TO THE INNER PAD. WHEN THE PAD IS ALMOST READY TO REPLACE, THE TAB WILL CONTACT THE ROTOR AND VOILA! TIME FOR A BRAKE JOB. DOES THE SQUEAK OCCUR WHEN THE CAR IS MOVING FORWARD AND BACKWARD OR IS IT ONLY IN ONE DIRECTION? AND ONE LAST QUESTION...DID THE MECHANIC INSPECT THE BRAKES WHEN HE LOOKED AT YOUR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER?

Wow, this response has been very helpful. I am the original owner of the car-it had 20 miles on it when I purchased it. Regarding the lights- the lights do light up when I turn on the car but none stay on after the six second respond. The squeak in the brake pedal occurs only when I release it from being stopped and it seems to be less quieter than it was when I first took it in. The garage did check the pads and rotors and found them all to be in good condition. I can definitely tell a difference in the ride and stopping since he replaced the cylinder, and greased the parts that needed to be parked. In fact, I notice that there is not this click noise when I engage the car from park to drive that used to happen before the repair. I will take the car in just for a diagnostic test and see what they say but have them do no repairs. I just need to figure out which dealership in Cleveland I feel I can trust. A good friend of mine gave me words to live by, "once you pull your new car off the dealership never return until you are ready to buy a new car".