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How do I change the rear spark plugs on my 2005 Uplander?

(2005 Chevrolet Uplander)
in Tipp City, OH on February 04, 2010
It has a 3.8L, I think it would be possible to change them just by reaching over the engine, but was looking for other insight.
Displaying 6 answers & 3 comments
Popular Answer
on February 04, 2010
Replacing the rear spark plugs on your 2005 Chevrolet Uplander is not an easy task. You can work from "over the top" if you wish. It can be helpful to remove some of the components mounted on the rear valve cover to help improve access. You can also work from the underside if you have access to a lift. I would recommend that you replace the spark plug wires along with the spark plugs and hopefully you will be good for another 90K.
on April 07, 2014
The uplander is a real nightmare,just changed the spark plugs and the wires.
Remove the battery + wire , put trans in N ,remove the engine's 2 mounts ,remove the air cleaner large hose, pull the engine foreward(use a robe or an old tie) remove the alternator remove the wires (need to cut them down because they are stuck to the plugs ,remove plugs.
Now install back , when donne : SELL the damn piece of junk.
on January 25, 2013
I just change the plugs on my 05 chevy uplander. I went "over the top" of engine if you unbolt and move the coil pack to the side you can get the back plugs(it is not easy but it can be done). I was advised that the wireset should be replaced you can break them trying to pull them off(also being so close to the manifold the heat damages them and makes it that much harder to getting them to let go of the plugs). The Chevy dealer didn't know what was the problem with mine so I replaced everything (spark plugs, plug wires and the coil pack) It took me like close to 3 hours but it runs great now. Good luck.
on August 10, 2010
I just did my 07 uplander and after a long battle of trying to work over the top its almost impossible to get to anything.So you have to remove the plenum( that silver object) you see when you take the black cover off. Remove the necessary items wiring intake tubes sensors etc.Remove the6 or 7bolts that hold it down on top.
There are 2 (13mm) bolts on the back under side you ll have to feel them and remove them. They hold the coil assembly . There is also a 10 mm bolt holding down the transmission tube that needs to come off also.Remove the plenum carefully and cover the intake holes to avoid dropping foreign objects.Feel on the bottom side of the coil assembly find the 2 bottom bolt retainer nuts and remove. The wires are now accessable and will take a good effort to remove. If you can get a picture of a3.9 or 3.8 on the computer you see how its assembled it helps. Be sure to label your wires on the coil pack before youremove them.
on January 16, 2011
put a jack under the front of the engine cradle, remove the 2 bolts for the frt. of the cradle, slowly lower the jack and the whole engine and trans will go down, allowing acces to the rear of the engine,change the plugs, jack the cradle back up and install the two bolts. also a good way to change the alternator when it needs service.This works on uplander, venture and montana's 96 and up.
on March 13, 2011
Do you mean the front motor mount? And is that all you have to do? Is there anything else?
on May 28, 2011
Nope, That's it. You my want to use jackstands on the rear cradle mounts. Jack it _WAY_ up on the front of the cradle, slip the jackstands in, then loosten the bolts and lower the jack slowly.
You may have to disconnect the MAF plug. It's the electrical connector between the airbox and the plenum. That was a little tight on my 07 uplander and I unplugged it just to be safe.
Get the rear plugs from underneath. The front plugs from the front. Having the engine dropped in the front gives you loads of room to get your fingers and arms in there, from both the top and bottom.
The only "tricky" thing about the ignition wires was disconnecting the wire loom mount. It was tough for me to get my arms up there and squeeze the mounting plug so it would come out of the mounting tab. But that was it. I arranged the rear wires in the loom clip before I put them in there(copying the layout of the 3 wires I pulled out). Then I just routed it up from underneath the van.
Took my time. Thought and looked for things that might break before acting. Total time: 2 hrs
small plug socket
3/8" small wratchet
3/8" 2" extension
3/8" 4" extension
3/8" 8" extension
3/8" long wratchet (to break the plugs free)
3/8" universal joint (for front plugs to make things quicker)
21mm socket for cradle bolts
BIG breaker bar for cradle bolts.
Floor jack
two jack stands
needle nose pliers (to squeeze the loom mount in for the rear plugs)
Antisieze for the plug threads
Dieelectric grease for the ignition wire ends (wire kits never give you enough)
on November 12, 2012
take the front motor mounts off, put the van in neutral, drive, or reverse. may work in park too. cant remember which gear. you can then pull the motor forward. may have to remove the air cleaner hose, or a few other things. once you get the engine forward more, remove your coil pack, and then its not that hard.
on June 18, 2015
NOT A BIG DEAL!!!!! Mine is a 2007 with the 3.9. The key here boys is to get the car jacked up at just the right height. For me it was the front wheels 6 inches off the ground. And I had to lie on the creeper with my feet on the drivers side. Use a Very long STRAIGHT needle nose pliers to grip under the hex part of the plug wires and a long (preferable a bit longer than the pliers) pry bar to slip under the pliers to POP the plug wire off. Worked on all 3. Reach your left hand up there first to twist the boot to loosen it up a bit. Next, use a straight plug socket and an extension that is around 4.5 inches long. Mine is an old Monkey Wards 4.75" tool that I got back in the 70's and has proven to be invaluable. Now for the Most important tool of all. Wally World sells a Stanley ratchet that not only has a flexible head but also the handle extends out to around 18 inches or so. So with your left arm up inside holding the racket head you can easily loosen the plug with your right hand with the handle extended all the way out. Be sure to make a mark on anything up there with a marker or whatever to show you the direction of the extension BEFORE you remove that plug to aid you in lining up the new plug for easy installation. Total time to R&R should be no more than 30 minutes. Anti-seize on the plugs and LUBE THOSE BOOTS!!!!!
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