Engine Stalls when Coming to a Stop on Mazda Protege

Problem Description and Possible Solution

If the engine stalls when coming to a stop, check the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) level. Low ATF fluid level can cause the torque converter lock-up to stay on, stalling the engine.

Problem Data
RepairPal Verified
Average mileage: 126,383 (20,225–261,000)
Drive Trains affected: 1.5L 4 Cylinder, 1.6L 4 Cylinder, Automatic Transmission, Manual Transmission
11 model years affected: 1990, 1992, 1995, 1996, more1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003
36 people reported this problem
Viewing 1 - 11 of 11 comments
Car drives fine but when coming to a stop the engine hesitates and stalls. I have been trying to look for answers but cannot get a straight one. I have found if I put the car in neutral when stopping it does not stall, or if I feel it being to stall I can sometimes put it in neutral and catch it before it stalls. Please Help!!!
Same issue. The car drives fine. When i come to a stop the idle will hesitate and occasionally stall completely. The problem is intermittent and unpredictable. I would not describe the idle as rough, though. When the engine does stall, it starts back up again no problem.
Car runs fine, but at stoplights it idles unevenly, I can watch the rpm needle drop and feel it try to stall out... If I put it in park this does not happen, and I have no problems. If I do leave it in drive and it stalls at a stoplight, it starts up fine.
engine stalls sometimes when the car stops at an intersection. If I put the car in parking the engine does not stall.
my car will crank up very easily but will not stay running when coming to a complete stop. the unit will sputter and cutoff very easily
I have a 1999 Mazda Protege that the engine started to stall at the traffic lights. The engine had a rough idle and then would stall or would want to stall. I would put on neutral and the car would be fine. I tried several things to fix and nothing worked. During the process of removing the EGR valve to clean with brake fluid I noticed a vacuum hose (7/16 in diameter) that is by the throtle body and leads to the back. It is appox 10 inches long and seemed to be breaking off. I still went ahead and removed with a 12 metric socket and cleaned the EGR valve and there is also a (1/8 in diameter) hose that is right next to the EGR valve and leads to the right of the car to a sensor. I diconnected the hose and blew air from one end and black carbon came out. I cleaned the port next to the EGR valve where the (1/8 inch) hose goes connected. I used a small wire and used brake cleaning fluid and broke a clog of carbon. Cleaned well and blew air with air compressor. I replaced gasket to the EGR valve and put everything back together. The check engine light went off and the car is running great even at he long lights.
Replaced the EGR valve ... everything ok, check engine disappear... for me i have already check the transmission fluid ! if your engine is stalling and have a low idle between 0 to 1000 rpm then look at the EGr valve theres a new model (canadian) before having other problems like a failing catalytic converter if not repaired !
Car stalls when coming to a stop or when in park, or when going under 40mph. I've been to machanic three times and been sent home with a car that still stalls.
Same problem with the idle dropping and stalling out at stops as everyone else. I think I managed to fix it. I cleaned a bunch of carbon buildup out of the throttle body by just spraying a bunch of engine cleaner into it and letting it set for a couple of minutes and then wiping it out. Once I reassembled everything the car seemed to run and idle fine.
My check engine light came on about a month ago it immiediately started shaking. The emergency break started showing on my dashboard about 3 days ago. Now today on 11/21/16 i drove from reistertown Maryland to Catonsville Maryland this morning and it did not cut off once. I cut it off at Catonsville, turned it back on to get to west city and it cut off in traffic constantly.