Mazda Problems

RepairPal has identified the most common problems with the Mazda as reported by actual vehicle owners. We'll tell you what the problem is and what it'll take to fix it.

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163
Known Problems

The engine may develop a ticking noise from the front of the engine due to a worn timing chain. Our technicians tell us that replacing the timing chain and related component will generally correct this issue.

If the engine cranks but will not start, it may be due a failed distributor. In the diagnosis, it may be discovered that the Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Unit is the cause if ignition spark is restored after disconnecting the Spark Output (SPOUT) Connector.

Various electrical issues may develop related to the body control module (BCM). There have been reports of water damage to the BCM caused by clogged or damaged sunroof drains. It is recommend to periodically inspect the sun roof drain for debris and clean as necessary.

A loud ticking noise (hydraulic valve lifter noise) may be heard from the top of the engine, particularly when the engine is still cold. The noise may occur more frequently on higher mileage vehicles; Hydraulic valve lash adjusters may need to be replaced to correct this issue. Following the maintenance schedule for oil changes will also help prevent a recurrence of the noise.

Some models may have a problem with stalling under light acceleration. Updated software for the powertrain control module (PCM) is available which may help with this concern.

There are T-shaped vacuum connectors under the intake manifold that can break and cause a rough idle.

The engine may fail to start due to an electrically shorted sensor. Some of the sensors may internally short and not blow any fuses. A technician may find no spark and no operation of the fuel injectors in the diagnosis. One way a technician may isolate the defective sensor is by disconnecting sensors one by one to see if the engine starts.

A loud ticking noise (hydraulic valve lifter noise) may be heard from the top of the engine, particularly when the engine is still cold. The noise may occur more frequently on higher mileage vehicles; Hydraulic valve lash adjusters may need to be replaced to correct this issue. Following the maintenance schedule for oil changes will also help prevent a recurrence of the noise.

A lack of power may develop due to a failed turbocharger. Failed turbochargers will require replacement to restore engine power.

If the engine cranks but won't start, the fault may be internal to the distributor. Diagnosis will show no spark and trouble codes for the crankshaft position sensor (CKP) or the camshaft position sensor (CMP). Our technicians recommend replacement of the complete distributor assembly if these conditions occur.

An electrically shorted air flow sensor can cause a crank-no start condition. Diagnosis may show that ignition spark is normal, and there are no trouble codes stored.

If the engine cranks but does not start, it may be caused by a tripped inertia switch. Switch the key to "ON" and the fuel pump should be heard running for a second or two. Listen at the gas filler if necessary. If you do not hear the pump the inertia switch should be reset, it will "click" when it is reset.

Defective or worn out ignition coils can cause engine misfires and Check Engine Light illumination. If the problem is severe enough engine performance will suffer and the Check Engine light will flash on and off.

A loose or corroded ground terminal on the driver's side of the cylinder head can cause a rough idle, misfires, and there may be trouble codes. Restore the ground to the cylinder head.