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Mazda Problems

RepairPal has identified the most common problems for 31 Mazda models based on complaints from actual vehicle owners. We'll tell you what the problem is and what it'll take to fix it.

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Known Problems

If the engine stalls after a cold start (the vehicle has been parked for a while), the idle air control (IAC) valve may be sticking. It may be fouled with carbon buildup. If cleaning the valve does not solve the problem, replacement will be needed.

The cooling fan module can fail causing the fan to either run constantly, or not operate at all. If the fan runs continuously, the engine may not warm up properly, and if the fan does not run, the engine may overheat. Mazda has a voluntary recall on model years 2002-2003 to address this concern. Please click here to find a Mazda dealer near you.

A lack of power may develop due to a failed turbocharger. Failed turbochargers will require replacement to restore engine power.

A vibration felt at 55 mph may not be a tire problem. Mazda has revised motor mounts available which may help remedy this problem.

The engine may overheat due to erratic engine cooling fan operation as a result of a faulty cooling fan control module. Replacement of the fan control module would be necessary to correct this condition. Our technicians tell us the Mazda may provide assistance with the cost of this repair.

Some vehicles may experience Check Engine Light illumination with a trouble code indicating the thermostat is stuck open. The thermostat will need to be replaced with a modified one and there is a software update for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

If you hear a constant grinding noise from the front brakes, even when not pressing the brake pedal, it is possible the wheel hub has shifted in the steering knuckle causing the brake rotor to grind against the caliper bracket. The hub will need to be inspected (replaced if necessary) and Mazda has a repair procedure for this concern.

A loud ticking noise (hydraulic valve lifter noise) may be heard from the top of the engine, particularly when the engine is still cold. The noise may occur more frequently on higher mileage vehicles; Hydraulic valve lash adjusters may need to be replaced to correct this issue. Following the maintenance schedule for oil changes will also help prevent a recurrence of the noise.

Premature automatic transmission failure is common. Diagnoses of the fault will be necessary to determine if repair or replacement is the proper repair.

A dirty, or contaminated mass airflow (MAF) sensor can cause the engine to run poorly. There may be a Check Engine Light with trouble codes relating to the MAF sensor. In some cases, carefully cleaning the sensor element will fix the problem, but replacement may be required.

If the engine cranks but will not start, it may be due a failed distributor. In the diagnosis, it may be discovered that the Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Unit is the cause if ignition spark is restored after disconnecting the Spark Output (SPOUT) Connector.

Damaged wiring to the seat belt pre-tensioner sensor may cause the Airbag Warning Light to illuminate.

Internal failure of the ignition switch may create a condition where the key reminder continues to chime even though the key is removed. In addition, the doors cannot be locked with the keyless entry system. Replacing the ignition switch with an updated switch is the typical repair.

If the engine cranks but does not start, it may be caused by a tripped inertia switch. Switch the key to "ON" and the fuel pump should be heard running for a second or two. Listen at the gas filler if necessary. The inertia switch is located on the firewall and can be tripped when the parking brake is set too hard and then released. The inertia switch should be reset, and will click when it is reset.

Misfires under load (acceleration) can be caused by leaky spark plug boots. When a spark plug boot leaks, it allows the spark to arc, or jump, to the cylinder head. New spark plug wires will be needed.