Close
Cadillac Seville STS Problems

Check Engine Light due to TCC fault on Cadillac Seville STS

Problem Description and Possible Solution

The torque converter clutch (TTC) may stop working due to an internal transmission failure. The Check Engine Light will illuminate if this occurs. Our technicians tell us the transmission will require dis-assembly to correct this concern.

(24 people reported this problem)

Cadillac Seville STS Vehicles With This Problem

RepairPal Verified
Average mileage: 103,333 (64,000–130,000)
5 model years affected: 1995, 2000, 2001, 2002, more2003
Not Your Cadillac Seville STS Problem?
Brake problem? Or maybe a faulty head gasket cylinder?
Learn About Your Car Problems
Search For a Specific Car Problem
Viewing 1-11 of 11 comments
Check Engine Light was on when I bought the car, Had Autozone check it and it read P0741 and P1860, Tork Converter !!! Not sure what to do at this point !

I have driven the car for almost 10,000 miles so far and have had No problems with the Trans, Should I still be concerned ? Is it possible its something else causing this check engine light to stay on ? Maybe a sensor ??
tcc code came on due to transmission problem...Have not fixed yet...sucks that cadillac cant make a better product thats so expensive to fix
Also had TCC fault. Had service manual and was attempting to do a test on the 6-8 wire round electrical connector to the transmission. Near top of transmission but not too easy to see or get to. I got connector loose and tried to test, then gave up for awhile and reconnected. But this caused TCC fault to go away! Yes higher gas mileage returned! I think the connector had developed a bad connection on some of the terminals. I took connector off again later and dabbed a little terminal grease on each prong and never had a re-occurrence. This is a good maintenance technique for any connection you work with on an older car.
Check engine light came on and threw codes P0741 & P1860. Since I intend to keep this car for a while longer, I had the transmission replaced $3400
this is such a common problem i wrote a couple reports but it came up under 2000 deville u can read my night mare there u tube has a demo on it that u dont have to drop tranny caddilac knew of these problems but kept it quiet
The car still runs fine with a couple fewer mpg. The problem is it won't pass emissions inspection with a check- engin light on.
I had two codes: P0741 and P1860. Symptom; would not shift into overdrive. Which means the transmission was still in "3rd" at cruising speeds. When in 3rd, the transmission is still using hydraulics to drive the wheels. In overdrive, the transmission input shaft is mechanically locked to the transmission output shaft via the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid. One mechanic whom I consulted said I had three options: 1) Continue driving and lose 3-4 mpg indefinitely, 2) Partial overhaul at $1,700. 3) Complete transmission overhaul at $3,800. I took option 4 that he did not mention: Bought a Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid for $35 on EBay and replaced myself. Those solenoids are notorious for breaking off at the electrical connector inside the transmission. It was a messy 8-hour job that involved removing left engine mount (slightly jacking the engine) and loosening left transmission cover. Removing the solenoid was completely by "feel" as it is barely visible with transmission cover loosened (cover can't be removed unless the engine/transmission is pulled). 30,000 miles later, works great! A finicky job but well worth the lack of expense. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=moVNToSluKw This guy in Europe describes the task fairly well though I didn't have to dismount the brake master cylinder. Removing and reinstalling the solenoid retaining pin was quite easy for me by looping a long fine wire (or stout string) through the apex of the retaining pin and pulling out. Used the same wire while installing retaining pin to keep from dropping into the transmission, holding both ends of the looped wire while guiding and pushing the retaining pin into place with the other hand. BTW, if you need to pass Emissions testing prior to repair, try clearing codes and only use "3" instead of "Drive". The car will still drive the same and the computer won't know that overdrive isn't working. I'm a wire-chaser by trade and not a mechanic. This job can be done by the average DIYer.