Rough Running Idle, Erratic Speedometer Operation, ABS Light Illuminated, Check Engine Light, and Automatic Transmission Shifting Problems on Mazda B3000

Problem Description and Possible Solution

Water intrusion into a connector located under the cab, beneath the driver's seat, can cause a rough idle, erratic speedometer operation, ABS Light and Check Engine Light illumination, and automatic transmission shifting problems. If needed, connector repair parts are available from Mazda dealers, and possibly some Ford dealers.

Problem Data
RepairPal Verified
Average mileage: 122,099 (21,000–168,000)
13 model years affected: 1994, 1995, 1996, 1998, more1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
44 people reported this problem
Viewing 1 - 12 of 12 comments
Whenever I am coming to stop lights my car starts to shake and usually stalls once the RPMS go low enough. The car does not always stall, but it does on occasion. I don't know what to do. Dealership and autocare place have yet to figure out what is going on.
codes 300, 316, 420rough idle; will stall if at a stop for longer than 5 minutes & has 3-5 second delay between pressing gas peddle & initial power after sitting in idle; check engine light on and starts blinking as idle becomes rougher; brake light on; will not shift to overdrive... have cleaned injectors, done compression test, replaced mass air flow sensor, spark plugs & wires, coil pack...Nothing has worked
Rough Running Idle, ABS Light Illuminated, and Check Engine Light, the airbag light is also Illuminated,
NO ROUGH IDLING, But: 2000 Mazda B-3000. Problem: ABS light went on, then Check Engine light. Speedometer not functioning until about 30 mph, tranny shifts hard on 2nd to drive shift. Read possible diagnosis’ online. Plan A: uncoupled large electrical loom plug under the cab below driver’s seat. No moisture, but carefully applied heat gun anyhow. NOPE. Plan B: Replaced ABS speed sensor on the top of the differential. Mazda did not have one so went to Ford, part # F85Z-9E731-AB. Cost: $36.24. Easy fix. Backed truck up on metal ramps, blocked front tire. Left wire plug on the sensor, removed 1 bolt and wiggled the sensor out of it’s hole. Then removed plug and plugged it to new sensor. Put a film of oil on the sensor’s O-ring, and wigged it back down into the hole. 1 bolt later and DONE. Drove it – worked fine, but Check Engine light still on. Disconnected + side battery cable for 2 hours to let that reset, and there you have it. I got all the info online. THANKS, TJ
speedometer won't work abs light on this well happen usally in cold temps and will clear up in a day or two
Rough Running Idle, ABS Light Illuminated, and 8 codes po176,p1151,p1409,po155,po141,po135,p1451,po5oo