BMW 325i QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Changed the fuses but it did not help
All fuses have been checked, battery is good, took water pump out, thermostat and changing coolant sensor next.
Replaced radiator, both thermostats, expansion tank (on #3 right now) keeps cracking, fan clutch, hoses, heater core was leaking, so bypassed it, no visible leaks anywhere. Any answers to what else it might be. I have put so much new into hard to give it up!
when I accelerate over 60mph a ticking noise is coming from the dash on the drive side. It's sound like it's a fan. As I slow down the ticking stops. What could be the problem?
My mechanic having problems putting it back up there
My heater isn't blowing hot air, but the a/c does work. I changed my fuses , check the thermostat, now I'm wondering if its the FINA stage or where to go from here, I also have a electrical issue with my vehicle which the dealer pretty much said to fix my heater and wiring would coast me around 6,000 , so any suggesting would greatly be appreciated! Along with tge Winter around the corner I'm trying not to have my children freeze.
for about a week i tried to do the drive cycle , but is the same , there is no codes
My bmw won't start only sometimes...when it doesn't start it say on the dash F circle with an exclamation mark and N
Brought to shop and told I needed new starter but mechanic didn't want to do it since it was huge job?
I cut open my original BMW key to replace battery in order to save $200 from getting a new key from the dealer. As I was walking I lost the inside part of the original key so I bought a used key on Craigslist and cut that key open in order to put it in my original key and my car still won't start. No click no nothing. Not the battery because I just bought a new one so I know its the key. Is there a way to reprogram the key so my car will start without spending $200 on a new key from the dealer? Please help thanks
CAR WINDOWS WONT ROLL DOWN
Ran out of gas then put in one gallon then ran the car ten miles then put in three gallons now it start up drives ten feet dies out exhaust burns hot
Hi guys . I'm having a problem with my 2002 bmw 325i. when i start the car, the car does fine. when i turn on the A/C, headlight, or radio , the car loses voltage, and sometimes shuts down to what i feel is loss of power. Any idea what causes this problem please ?
It says on even when I change it to Drive, Reverse, and Neutral
no power to the convertible
How do I turn off this service message that appears on the message center on my dash
Why does my car make a high pitched whine nosie
It looks like their is some airintake under the engine on the drivers side. What is this
I recently did a full brake change but I recently started to hear a noise when I break.
My steering wheel starts to shake very bad when I go over 50mph but gets better past 60mph.
On a cold night i started my car and the radio didn't work at all the next day it worked but then cut off.
I cant seem to find it so i put the transmission oil where the power steering is , should I do that or not?
I was driving it and all of a sudden there is no reverse.
Purchased an 02 E46 great deal. However the lad didn't change the oil very often. When I bought the car it was about 3k the "next oil change" sticker. No ticking no knocking, no rough idling. I did a tune up and oil change myself, I just want to clean out any gook that may be gumming up the engine. Thanks for your help
I cleaned the dash and then this problem started
after repair everytime car got wet enginelite and idle off. code mentioned could be from spark plugs having oil from damaged oilgasket leak. car place would not ck unless lite remained on.by time i would get to them it would dry &go off. they never would ck and now clutch broke? can these be related? i believe the code was 1543 it was a powertrain code, i remember that.
need to change out the fuses for side windows? The button will work to make them move in any direction
I bought a used 2005 bmw 325i and I have started doing to notice recently that every time that I start up the car and drive about 50-100 ft the break pedal reacts as if I ran over a pothole or something similar, it's only when going downhill too. Any info on problem/fix/repair cost, would be greatly appreciated.
Soon as the car starts an louder when the gas pedal is pressed.
We have had the pans, gaskets, and pan bolts replaced on both pans. That didn't fix the leak. The only help was a repair shop in CA when the guy said he thought it was the servo seal while he was filling it. But that requires dropping the tranny... Is there anything else I can check first before fishing around with the tranny being dropped? It's a big enough leak that it needs to be refilled about every 300 miles or so.