What is your question?
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What is your question?
Doesnt matter if the engine is cold or 200 degrees my idle in park is roughly 700rpm and feathering the gas peddle when putting it into gear seems to have no effect. Already replaced the idle air control valve even tried changing the TPS though I think the new one is bad as it idles at 1500rpm and the engine still stalls when putting into drive/reverse. Thus far no check engine light.
2 Replies
Hello, I think your torque converter or lock-up solenoid is having trouble, plus you have a large vacuum leak or the TPS is installed incorrectly. If the TPS was installed incorrectly, it can hold the throttle plate open, causing a high idle. The TPS does not control the movement of the throttle plate, it just tells the computer how far the throttle plate is turned. Another thing this could be is the engine or transmission mounts. Since it does it in forward and reverse, I'd say it is worth checking them for play.
Isn't there 2 TCC lockups on 95 4l60e transmissions ?, the solenoid on valve body that looks just like the 3-2 downshift solenoid and a 2nd oldschool one that is larger (not sure where it go's I am still hunting)
You're on the right page. The 3-2 solenoid does look like the TC control solenoid, and is in the exact same position on the other side of the transmission. However, the TC lock-up solenoid is actually inside the pump, but visible if the control solenoid is. http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/pp282/ssgjurista/4L60E/4L60EValveBodyTypical.jpg Check that out, it will show you where they are, and they can both be replaced without removing the transmission, which is fantastic if that is the cause. The control solenoid is what actuates the lock-up solenoid, and if either are faulty, the TC will always be locked or unlocked. At this point, it would really help you to scan for codes. OBD-I will still spit out codes, and if you don't have a scanner, find a video to tell you where to install a jumper wire or paperclip to get the CEL to blink for codes. If you don't find any physical damage, permatex sitting in random places, especially if that random place is important, and the valve body flushes cleanly, get a scan tool on this thing. It is really a matter of finding out what the transmission is doing, when, and why. The other thing, have you figured out why the RPM sits @1500 at idle?
Yup, check motor mounts and torque converter lock-up solenoid. The motor mounts are easy enough to check, just see if the engine moves more than a little when you put it into drive/reverse. For the lock-up solenoid, you could try putting the transmission in 1 or 2 instead of drive. If it is the same story, it will need diagnostic scanning. Also, look for loose connections around the engine bay if the motor mounts are bad. The engine can dislodge critical connectors, components, etc, and tear wires.
I got the Tps simply because I was ordering everything Tps/Idle control/map/fuel regulator even going to pick up some new o2 sensors and possibly an egr on payday. as for the TCC lockup-up solenoid It's in the transmission pan on the 95 model 4l60-e transmission. If it were clogged up is this the type of problem it could cause (Very likely it could be clogged with permatex) as I recently changed the filter and did a full system flush only to find my shift 1-2 sensor clogged
Yes, that sounds like it is worth checking, but it's a lot easier to check them with a professional grade scanner. Have you tried putting it in drive when it is already rolling, or with the wheels off the ground/brakes off? Do you get a hard clunk when you select drive or reverse?
No check engine light, besides it's obd1. as for the clunk I get it sometimes and sometimes not, normally get it if I rev the throttle because until now I thought it was a fuel/airflow issue. and the first time it happened I was able to force my way home by flooding the engine with gas and being quick to put it in park/neutral at any stops. (the engine was still trying to stall at 35mph but I flooded it with enough gas to make it home. Like I said though sometimes when I put it in drive/reverse it works just fine, most times the vehicle dies instantly "i might actually move 2 feet though if I give it some gas before it sputters out and i get the clunk"