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Hi! I have a E350 super duty 2005, 5.4L (gas) it just stop running while getting to a job, I tow it home and start working on it had no codes it will idle & stalls, the first thing I did was to replace the fuel filter, but nothing changed so I changed coils, spark plugs, injectors, MAF sensor, removed the throttle body and clean it, whlie there I replaced the throttle position cesnsor and no change, so when ahead and replaced several other things as the fuel pressure sensor (TPS), saw no change and continued to test the fuel pump and had 45-50psi pressure (I belive that is a ok) so I replaced the fuel pump driver module just in case, as I continue to test and trying to run the engine I got a code for one of the oxigen sensor, (I know that was caused probably by me trying to run the engine testing here & there), but I still replaced, no luck again, the engine seems to run ok for a couple of seconds until it stalls or idles rought, I still don't get any codes. I tested Voltage to fuel
What makes this problem better or worse?
engine seems to act ok for couple seconds then it acts rough, when put on D stalls
How long has your 2005 Ford E-350 Super Duty had this problem?
two weeks
1 Reply
I'm surprised you don't have "lean" running codes, like a P0171 / P0174. The first place I'd look on a 5.4L V8 of this vintage is the PCV tube. They are known to leak. They will typically set those lean codes though. I'm highly concerned that you've thrown so many parts at this vehicle with no evidence of failure -- you could actually make things worse than leaving well enough alone, if you replace components without actually verifying the need to do so. Codes only get you so far. Good work with the fuel pressure test, but these vehicles aren't known for fuel pump issues....or FPDM issues. Did you use Motorcraft coils and spark plugs, complete with new boots? If not, get them. I've mentioned a couple thoughts, but if nothing there is helpful, it's all about data monitoring. What is happening when the stalling occurs? What is the MAF reading? What do the fuel trims indicate?
Thanks Dave, I truly appreciate your opinion and experience and also agree with you, I installed several parts that cost probably same/less amount of money that I could have pay to a shop to repair it probably, but I love to learn new things every day and I decided that spending money on this parts was actually fair for the truck as it paid for itself long ago. I have installed Motorcraft coils, the spark plugs are boch with new boots, now it sometimes stalls or is just idle erratically, there is a clicking noise just at the beginning but goes away a minute or two later (it was there before), here is a little video I toke if that helps https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxGOuewEwb4&feature=share as for the fuel trim there is this reading (MAF 0.95) abslt TPS (%) 14.9 ENG SPEED (RPM) 857 BARO PRS ("HG) 27.5 MAF (LB/M) 0.95 ST FTRM1 (%) 25.0 LT FTRM1 (%) 18.0 ST FTRM2 23.4 LT FTRM2 15.6 REL FRP (PSI) 39.78 FUEL SYS1 CLSD1 REL TPS 2.0 THROT CMD(%) 2.4 EVAP PURGE(%) 0.0 EVAP VP (H20) -0.207
The first thing that must be resolved is the dead misfire that’s going on here. You either have an issue with a spark plug, coil, routing of the parts or appropriate connection — Or, somewhat more likely: a base engine problem. Have you done a base engine compression test on all eight cylinders? And a leak down test for any cylinders that are affected negatively? I feel like you’re gonna find a compression problem here.
Thanks Dave, I will do that test asap, though what you say mames sense, since spark plug, coil and injectors have been tested and replaced twice with some spare ones I have from similar truck we have, I going to get the testers and check that asap
Only use new Motorcraft plugs, coils and boots. I wouldn’t have touched the injectors; put them back to original. If you do not use new ignition components, you run the risk of installing questionable parts. Those coils in boots will arc and fail once they are removed and installed elsewhere.
Thanks Dave, I did put back the original injectors as you mention, I'm waiting on a compression tester I got from amazon to do the test you mention, I also ordered another fuel pressure tester (did the first test with old one), I try to turn on the engine and it will crank longer or take a couple times for the engine to run, do you think the pump or something may not be sending fuel with enough pressure? I used another scanner little better than my old one (bluedriver) and here some of the readings not sure if the means anything may be off : FP 39.9PSI Fuel Level Input 2.7% Mass air flow rate 1.2lb/min Fuel System Status: Closed loop, but fault with at least one oxygen sensor - may be using a single oxygen sensor for fuel control (bank 1 or Bank 2) Regards
found that driver side is not firing, the manifold is not hot as left side, :/ that seems where the misfire is coming from, coils have voltage and injectors too while the switch is on,