Both power sliding doors stopped working with a couple weeks of each other. After looking at them closer, I realized the cable became frayed and snapped at some point. I had to force the doors closed and have not been able to open them since. Very frustrating having two kids of my own and sometimes more climbing over the front seats and console to get in and out of the van. I also reported this problem to the NHTSB in regards to a safety concern for passengers in the back seats. What if we are in an accident and unable to open the front doors. How are we supposed to get out of the van? We owners have paid the extra money for this feature and should be able to know and feel that our cars are safe and reliable for all members of our family. I DEMAND a safety recall!! Wouldn't there be a recall on any of the sedans if one of the back doors kept getting stuck or broke?
My power sliding door will not open at all. It sounds like it wants to open when you press the door button or handle but it won't. I turned off the power door and it still won't open. It's as if it's locked. My drivers side sliding door is not a power door and also developed issues. Sometimes it will not open from the inside or outside. After I drive it around for a while it will open. The rear gate door also will not stay up and slams down on me. All these problems developed within a two week period. I have not had these things repaired yet because I'm afraid of the bill.
My electric sliding door only works if you start it off manually. If I pull on the handle it will close or open the door from the outside but not with the electronic buttons.
door does not open self, but once pulled to start will pick up and open
The cable snapped. When I called about having this fixed, they said it would cost $1,600. Ridiculous. I don't mind paying for a muffler, tires or brakes...but a door? Ridiculous. Won't ever get a car with electric doors (and especially from Torota) again. A notice came out, but it doesn't cover the cable, which is about $1,300 of the $1,600 fix.They've lost my business.
My driver side sliding door cable frayed and broke. Now it won't open but 6 inches.
Mine came with only one powered sliding door and it finally went kaput in 2010. The door jammed up and the cables were frayed. Finally it got some jammed up that it wouldn't close. No way I was spending $$$ on this. A quick snap snap with a cutter and the door works again. It's now human powered.
Left passenger electric sliding door would not latch. The door would slide open when the vehicle was moving. Dealer attempted to spray lubricant into mechanism to free latch. I have to have mechanism replaced for the tune of $1000. I was told that the latch was not properly maintained(by me). I should have lubricated the latch system once a month. My response is where is this mentioned in the owner's manual? Needless to say, I am not happy..
I am so angry about this. I brought the car to the dealer. Both doors are broken (one won't open at all) and it will cost $2,600 per door! The only reason I have the minivan is for the stupid power doors. We need to band together to get this fixed
The door just stopped closing when you pushed the automatic button on the overhead control or on the door panel. It was stuck open and we kind of forced it to close since I didn't want to drive with it open. It was greasy and dirty in the lock mechanism, so I cleaned it out, but it didn't help. Now we need to have the motor and calbes replaced for $1300.
The door stopped working, but we did not get it fixed--too expensive. Now we utilize it as a manual door.
Power door stopped working after being repaired from an accident 2 years ago. Was told I need a new motor and hinge. Cable appears to be frayed though.
They wanted $1963 to fix a problem that shouldn't have happened. I've turned off the automatic doors and am going manual.
Door stuck a little when my kids were getting in the car on our sloped driveway. I hit the button to let them out when we reached our (flat) destination. It made a weird sound and then the door wouldn't open from the inside or the outside. Found a wire hanging out of the window near the back of the car. For the rest of the day, the car beeped while I drove because it thought the door was open. The dealer showed me how to turn off the electric doors, so this fixed the beeping problem, but the door still wouldn't open. Was told it would cost $1400 to fix. The car is less than 6 years old - a little ridiculous that the service manager would claim it was pretty common and due to wear and tear. Will never buy a Toyota again - I can buy a much cheaper Dodge Caravan and get 6-7 good years out of it. Toyota was supposed to last at least 10 years. It's also ridiculous that the problem is so common and they won't take any blame on their own part for poor design.
The door will open fine and will start to close with any of the buttons or with the latches. However, it gets about 1/2 way and then retracts. We have to very strongly push it shut. Dealer will look at it for $100 but said Toyota has only helped with 2 of about 25 of the door problems. We need a site where everyone can submit their videos of the problem and mention whether it was the weld, actuator, motor, etc... Some sites have mentioned that some "fixes" only cost about $20 if you do it yourself. We do not have a conclusion yet. It is still not working. Toyota should be ashamed.
Power sliding door stopped working. Had it fixed 15,000 miles later the other door had the same problem. 5000 miles after that the door I had fixed broke again. Now won't open no matter what I do.
Power door works sometimes if using outside handle. Doesn't work using interior button. I had it looked at and the motor needs to be replaced $450. Why is there a recall only on the cables, does that burn out the motor if the cables failed?
The passenger side sliding door of my Toyota 2004 Sienna LE suddenly could not close yesterday. The power closing tries and then reverses to open. I followed the menu instruction to turn off the power door and tried to close it manually but failed. It won't move at all. I spread some lubricant and was able to make it close about 1/5. So I called the dealer and was told there was no recall. I then called Toyota directly and was told that there was an "enhanced warranty" for 9 years/120k miles. But mine is expired since it was bought 11/2003 even though it has only 58400 miles on it. I had no choice but to take it to the dealer today. Driving with side door open was no fun. I chose the earliest appointment possible so I won't get caught by a police (Will I be in trouble if caught?). Dealer asked for $1500 and I was able to get it down just a little over $1350. It is hard to swallow. I had bought 3 Toyota cars before and will never buy it again!
Following one of reporter's example, I filed complaints to both FTC (www.ftccomplaintassistant.gov) and NTSB (safercar.gov). All customers who experienced this problem should file complaint to those government agencies. Hopefully we can make Toyota to recall.
Last year the cable broke and cost $1600 to repair at the dealer. Now more than a year later it is acting up again. Sounds like the motor is going.
Driver side sliding door broke when rusty fraid cable snapped. Called dealer and they said there were extended warrenties/recalls on models from 2003-2007 but not 2008 and above. Told me that it could cost between $1300-$1900. Told me it would take a day to take the door apart. Crazy they would design a part that is so labor intensive to take apart when using cheap, and week components. What kind of reliabity testing do they do. Thought Toyota was a good car. Have heard good things but not trusting the brand now. There should be a recall on this or a class action suit.
the passenger rear sliding door 1/16th(yes that is the diameter)frays and breaks. When it breaks the entire cable is pullied into the motor housing inside the door and bursts the mechanism. The dealer quoted $2200.00 after fighting with Toyota and the dealer the cost came to $989. This occured July 8, 2014 Just today the Driver side door cable broke and i hear the motor pulling the cable into the housing and heard the casing burst. I beleive this is a serious design issue that needs to be recalled. The part is about $800.00 since it is one integral unit. All this for a 1/16 inch thick cable. Infuriating!