2010 Mazda 3 Pre-Purchase Car Inspection Cost

Pre-purchase inspections usually take about an hour, but can range from as short as 30 minutes to as long as a couple of hours, depending on the technician and the condition of the vehicle. In some cases, the PPI technician may request that the car be left overnight, so that he or she can observe the vehicle when it’s cold.

Pre-purchase inspections are recommended any time you buy a used vehicle. It’s cheap insurance against many potential expensive problems. While a PPI is valuable when buying a used car locally, it becomes even more important if you but one that’s outside your area, through an online auction, for instance. You’ll want some assurance that the vehicle is worth paying for before you seal the deal and have it delivered. Look for someone who can take a look at the car and then report back to you. Or, if you’re buying a classic or special interest car, the national owners’ club for that brand might be able to help you out. 

After the technician has completed the PPI, review the report carefully. There are usually three possible outcomes:  1. The vehicle is essentially problem-free, and you can buy with confidence.  2. The vehicle has some minor problems that can be easily fixed and won’t affect its long-term reliability. You can use the cost of repairs as leverage to get the seller to lower the purchase price, or you can walk away if you don’t want to deal with it. 3. The vehicle has one or more major problems that will be expensive to repair. You can ask the seller to make repairs, offer a much lower price, or simply walk away and find a vehicle that’s in better condition.

If a seller won’t allow a pre-purchase inspection, there’s a good chance they’re hiding a serious issue. Consider this as a big red flag and walk away. There will be plenty of other suitable vehicles worth your hard-earned money.

While pre-purchase inspections are relatively affordable, there are a few things you can do to weed out some cars before getting that far, thus possibly saving you some money.  Research the vehicle thoroughly: Check reliability ratings for the year and model of car you’re considering, and look at owners’ reviews of the vehicle. Stay away from troublesome cars that require expensive repairs. In addition, research the potential insurance cost for the car. You can find this out from your insurance agent.  Run a vehicle history report: This is done by submitting the vehicle’s VIN to a service that provides these types of reports. You can usually find your VIN on the driver-side top of the dashboard, or on the driver-side door jamb.  A vehicle history report will usually include information on when and where the vehicle has been purchased and sold, service history, any accidents, smog tests passed and failed, and open recalls. The is no guarantee that the vehicle history report is complete, but it’s a good place to start.  Find out everything you can from the seller: Ask for service records, which can prove that the vehicle was properly maintained. If you are in a state that requires smog inspections, ask to see the most recent smog certificate.  Get a good look at the pink slip or title to verify that the seller has clear title to the vehicle, without any liens. A “salvage” title is a red flag, indicating that the vehicle was previously totaled, and may have severe problems. Also ask why he or she is selling it now.  Do a basic visual inspection: Check under the hood, under the vehicle, inside the trunk and around the interior. Look for excessive wear, rust, and any signs of an accident. Make sure that the tires have adequate tread, that all the lights work, and that all features operate as they should. Drive the vehicle yourself: Start it up and let it idle for a while. Walk around the vehicle, listening for odd noises and a smooth idle. Keep an eye out for any smoke or dripping fluids. Next, take it for a drive. Make sure that it accelerates, brakes and corners well, without any problems or odd noises. It should stay straight, without pulling to one side. Hit a few bumps or potholes — the suspension should be able to handle them without crashing or bottoming out.  Take it on a highway, where it should be able to achieve and maintain a normal cruising speed without complaint. Do a few lane changes to verify that it handles well at highway speeds. Be sure that you are satisfied with the vehicle’s seating position and comfort, the all-around visibility from the driver’s seat, and the setup and operation of the controls.  After your test drive, park the vehicle on a clean section of pavement. Let it idle, checking for any leaks or noises that may only appear once the vehicle is warm. Shut it off, then check back several minutes later for additional leaks. If everything seems fine, get a PPI: If the used vehicle in question still appears to be in good condition, without any apparent major flaws, you can now arrange for a pre-purchase inspection.

Your best option is to have an ASE certified technician perform your PPI. While many repair facilities allow all their technicians to conduct these inspections, not all of them may be ASE certified. Ask that the work be done by someone with an ASE certification, or even better, by an ASE certified master technician. In-shop or mobile? There are two basic ways of doing a PPI. One is done in a mechanic’s shop, and the other is done by a mobile inspector, who comes to the vehicle’s location, inspects it there, and produces a report for you. If you already have a good relationship with a mechanic that you trust, then having the PPI done at the shop is your best option. A mechanic will have all the specialized equipment needed to diagnose any problem areas. The shop will also have a lift, which lets your mechanic get a good look at the underside of the vehicle.  A mobile PPI is more convenient and quicker, but it may not be as thorough as the PPI done in a shop.  Still, it’s a good option if the vehicle is a long distance away from you.