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Q: car stalls while in operation on 1993 Mitsubishi Expo LRV

replaced idle motor, distributor, plugs, now running ok except idle is shaky. three repairs were caused by car stalling in driving and not starting again. cranks but no start. each repair got it started, but what is really wrong. not sure it is really fixed.
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Another possibility may be the ECM unit. The ECM controls both ignition and fuel injection. These cars had problems with the ECM electronics as there is a known problem with the Electrolytic Capacitors on the circuit board. With time, these capacitors are known to leak caustic electrolye which can eat away at the circuit board. Unfortunately, the ECM is under the dash on the passenger side up against the kick panel...not to easy to get to...not a lot of space to work. Removal of the passenger side dash speaker grille assembly helps a least you can sorta see into the area.
BEFORE YOU GO SPEND A LOT OF MONEY... Why not try something a little easier that you can do on your own first...

These cars are known for the rough idle and stalling... I know I own one!
Follow these steps and it should help... I fixed mine in one day with just one run to Napa and it runs great now!

1. Check your grounds! almost all the sister vehicles have bad grounding issues! Battery, Motor, Transmission, ECU. If there cracked or you cant find them add one in! there is no down side to having a well grounded setup.

2. Dump a thing of "HEET" fuel stabilizer into a small gas can along with a can of "sea foam" and a can of octane boost, then poor it into the gas tank.

The "HEET" will remove the excess water from the fuel and reset the chemical balance back to where it should be. the "Sea Foam" will clean the tank, fuel line, injectors, and carbon out of the combustion chamber. PLEASE NOTE: you may need to change the fuel filter after you do this because it will clean out the system and the crap has to go some where... and it's a good idea anyways...

3. Get a can of foaming cleaner / degreaser and remove all the plastic on your intake until you get to the metal inlet. spray the foaming agent inside and let stand for 3 to 5 minuets and reaching inside with a small rag wiping clean as far as you can reach. repeat until a mostly clean rag is removed. then clean each piece of the intake as you reassemble it.

Go ahead and start it...
bring the idle up to 1500 to 2000 and let it sit there for about 10 minuets. let the idle back down and wait 3 to 5 minuets, if it dose not stall then take it around the block a few times to make sure.

If it did stall then turn it off and let it cool down until you can touch the exhaust with out getting burned, You'll need a O2 sensor and gasket for this next step so while it's cooling is the time to go get it. ( I went a little over board and bought one with out checking and changed it before starting mine) Go ahead and change it then try starting it again.

At worst if this dose not work for you then your out about 80 to 100 and you have done some probably much needed maintenance... but if it dose work then you just saved a whole lot more then taking it to the mechanics.
it could be alot but I'll try to help you check the dist cap under the bottom look very good to see if you see any cracks by the electroads. also check your fuel for WATER.
I have had new Dist. with a CHEAP rotor cause this problem you may want to change the ignition rotor also make sure the the wires are in the proper firing order
hawkfix, the new distributor had a new cap attached, and the fuel thing is something else. might try alcohol or fuel dryer. what about that??

tried to get to fuel tank, to see filter in pump, must remove back seat to get to trap door which is almost under front seat. will have to get someone to pull seat
my 1993 expo needed a new distributor, cap, plugs, wires,points due to a bad O ring letting oil into the distributor. Also revs up and they said might need a new mass air flow sensor and/or throttle sensor.
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