Buick Lucerne Problems

The Fuel Pump May Fail Causing the Engine to Stall or Crank Over But Not Start on Buick Lucerne

Problem Description and Possible Solution

The fuel pump may fail causing the engine to stall and not restart.

(118 people reported this problem)

Buick Lucerne Vehicles With This Problem

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Average mileage: 85,328 (10,000–185,000)
Engines affected: 3.8L V6, 3.9L V6, 4.6L V8, V6
6 model years affected: 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, more2010, 2011
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Viewing 1-20 of 61 comments
Fuel pump stopped pumpimg without warning. Had car towed to my garage wgere they advised me fuel pump was defective. after replacing fuel ump it was discovered the fuse box under the rear seat was fried. Car was then toewd to the local dealer where fuse bx was replaced and reprograming was necessary. i checked for a recall and was told there was none.
Car wouldn't start, checked fuel pump it stopped working also relay was burnt & melted a little. Replaced fuel pump and relay. Drove for @20 miles the car cut off and the new relay had melted. Put in another relay and the car started but i noticed the fuse box and relay was very hot to the touch. May have to replace fuse box before my fuel pump blows again
car cranks but no fuel to engine got towed dealer says fried fuse box I have read many people with same issue GM should racall Dealer charging me $530.15 to fix I think GM should pay what does anyone else think.
Fuel pump relay overheating and burning up. repeated failures after replacement. What is causing this? Must be getting to many amps
2 weeks ago, went to start vehicle and it was not getting gas. Had it towed and diagnosed as fuel pump. Had pump and relay replaced (relay was melted). 2 weeks later, I went to start the vehicle, same problem. Had car towed again and once again the relay is fried. Mechanic opened up fuse box and seems to be an electrical problem where too much power is going to the relay causing overheating and pump failure.
same issue. would crank but not start. The fuel pump and relay were replaced and not even a month later, the relay melted from who knows what. i talked to the mechanic that fixed it again and he stated that the fusebox or module has problems with it that may be an engineering flaw.
Fuel pump failed and replaced. One month later it failed again. Turned out the fuse panel under the backseat was overheating and meeting causing short to the fuel pump. Mechanic said that box should never need maintenance. Buick refused to speak to me about problem.
Fuel pump relay burnt out twice in 30 won't start...need new fuel pump
Stop and tried to start the car and it would not. It was traced to a bad fuel pump- car has abt 66,000 miles
Went to start car, didn't start. fuel pump drew down too many amps and burned fuel pump module had to replace fuel pump, fuel pump module and electronic injector.
Went to start car after work, wouldn't start, wasn't getting gas. Dealer changed fuel relay. Next morning went to start car, wouldn't start. Dealer then told us fuel pump sending out to much voltage, and frying fuel relay. Replaced both. Drove car for a day or two. Now it won't start....again.
Going to shop today. Engine cuts out driving down road. After a couple minutes and trys car will start.
Followup June 8 2016 for fuel pump/relay/fuse box problem....

Same symptoms occurred a third time after spending ~$1100 for 2 visits to the local dealer and towing charges. This time I got a bit smarter and had some improved results (so far).
When I flicked the key as always to start the engine and the cranking continued for about 3 seconds without the engine starting I knew the symptoms from before and shut the engine off as fast as I could.
I then removed and checked the fuel pump fuse (# 1 in the owner's manual on the page showing the diagram of the fuse block under the rear seat - page 6-114 in my manual) and fuel pump relay (#59 in the same diagram).
The relay has four prongs sticking out below the relay body and one of them was blackened and a small area of the relay body around the base of that prong had melted. The fuse was good.
I went to the dealer to get a replacement and found out by accident that there were 2 possible relays for that spot on the fuse box (GM part no. 1350-2754 or part no. 1350-2752). They are both universal relays and have the same ladder diagram on their sides but the 2752 is taller and appears to be a bit better made. They are both available on ebay and amazon for less than I paid at the dealer. The existing relay in my car was the 2754 so I bought a 2752 relay. I put back the original fuse that was undamaged and the new 2752 relay in the fuse block and the car started. I have started the car 4 times since then and it started normally every time.
However after 2 failures and hefty repair/towing bills I am now leery of getting caught with a dead car in an inconvenient location so am planning to carry spare fuses and relays. I ordered several relays from ebay.

I also looked into purchasing a spare fuse block since that often fries with this problem. I think it often fries because drivers keep on turning the key in an attempt to start the engine and heat up the relay and fuse box even more.

I found on ebay a company that sells 3 slightly different fuse boxes new for $70/$80). None of the 3 models matches perfectly the one in my car. (The one in my car doesn't even match perfectly the diagram in my manual) but one of the models on ebay is very close. Main difference is the location of the 25 amp fuse for the sunroof (which we never use) so I ordered that one and will look at having it modified when it arrives so I or someone more knowledgeable can install it when needed faster and cheaper than a car dealer. To get as close to the unit in your car I suggest taking a photo of your fuse box in the car with the top removed and comparing carefully to the units shown at this ebay store site

To find other suppliers just search on ebay for 'gm fuse block' All the units that came close to mine were not new so to minimize risk I bought new.

Hope this helps...remember to turn off the engine asap if it keeps cranking without starting.
Original posting.....
engine cranked and seemed to start then quit within a second. Dealer put the scope on my engine and reported fuel pump and relay needed replacing....
Followup June
car won't start turns over but thats all. replaced fuel pump drove from shop turned car off would not start again fuse relay fried
My car well not start. Fuel pump relay burnt and fuse box hoping fuse box is ok. replaced it and I started up the car and let it ran for 10 min and the new relay got hot. fuel pump was pulling 10 amp. now I am going to replace the fuel pump. Fuel pump going to cost me $230.
In July (2016) the car wouldn't start - cranked just fine, battery was ok, electrical seemed fine - just wouldn't start. After reading online I checked the fuse box underneath the backseat (behind the driver's seat) – I could see the fuse was fine, and the relay appeared to be ok as well. I could not see any thing that would indicate damage from a faulty connection, no melting plastic for example. When I turned the key (not to ignition, just enough to turn the electrical system on) I could not hear the fuel pump in the trunk making any noise.

I had the car towed to the mechanic and he confirmed – it was indeed a faulty fuel pump. So the first week or second week of August he replaced it with a new one (GM certified parts he said). After the first day of driving, the fuel gauge stopped working, but I needed to use the car so I drove it for about 6 weeks carefully tracking mileage and frequently filling the tank. Soon enough however, I got same symptoms, no start.

Took it to the same mechanic he diagnosed it again and said it was yet again, a faulty fuel pump - which he thought was strange, but he replaced free of charge. I drove the car for one day, and guess what? It happened again. This time I also confirmed no fuel was getting to the engine by checking the fuel pressure (under the hood fuel pressure valve/fuel rail). UGH !!!!

Had the car towed to the same mechanic a third time – this time he diagnosed that only the relay was bad and he swapped it out free of charge. I drove the car home BUT this time I noticed when I turned the car off, the fuel pump was still making noise (it was the same noise as if the keys were in the ignition and turned, but not turned far enough to start the car).

I waited an hour and a half and then came back out to the car to run an errand - I opened the trunk and I could STILL HEAR the fuel pump running – I checked the relay under the backseat again – it was VERY HOT. Too hot to touch. I quickly removed the relay, it was too hot to touch with my bare fingers. I was very concerned there could of been a melted fuse box, or even worse, a fire. I noticed too that the Fuse box had a little melt/damage where the relay fits into it. I bought a new relay from the auto parts store and put it in – and that did not help at all. Car is still inoperable, and will have to be towed yet again. Will likely take it to dealer and talk about options.

Just letting everyone know of what happened to me - hope it helps. (Seems like there could be some sort of class-action brewing. I am not confident that Buick will even consider paying for this sort of thing without some strong arming – I'm not a lawyer, but these types of things are happening to many Buick owners).
car stopped without warning, had to be towed, replaced the fuel pump, then later found that the relay was fried, after replacing the relay at the same time I replaced the fuel pump
Turning over but won't start on the first try, starts on the 2nd try. Engine light is on.