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Mazda B3000 Questions

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301
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All failed at once, horn, Central locking, indicators, AC, tail lights, brake on 2004 Mazda B3000
Lights, radio, right hand window, clock, hazard lights. Most are on the bottom row of fuses which are still all good, battery is fine terminals are clean, any clues?
by Vintrudyute perth w australia

Lights, radio, right hand window, clock, hazard lights.
Most are on the bottom row of fuses which are still all good, battery is fine terminals are clean, any clues?

My wipers, dome light, cargo light sometimes don't work, then they will work. The dome light will stay on when I get out of the truck and sometimes I'll have to get in the truck and move it before the light will go out. The door ajar light does the same thing but it stays one more than off. Driving down the road a beeeeeep alarm will go on for no reason and then go off. I have owned the truck going on 6 years now and this has always been like this. Anyone have any input on something like this?
I have checked fuses, relays and wires, and nothing. Signed HELP PLEASE

I replaced key cylinder , now I need new keys programed . I didn't realize this could be so complicated . I don't have a lot of money . I don't understand why you can buy the cylinder replace it but you can't program the keys to it . Please help

The shop manual list the specified fuel pressure range as 56-72. My fuel pressure is 31!

I need either a picture and or a diagram it would help out a lot thanks

This is a 1994 model with a 6 cylinder engine, air cond', and a standard transmission.It appears that the head on that side will have to be removed to get the water pump out. Thanks Ben

When trying to start truck it 1) cranks right up perfectly, 2) turn key and start is slow like starting with a bad battery but kicks over and starts 3)has a contious clicking noise, won't start 4) does not start have to push/ or jump start fires right up though. Have check most of the normal starting problems already battery Ect ect

i have replaced the battery, and cables, alternator,and fan belt. every time i press my clutch petal and prepare to stop my battery needle plummets, my lights dim. engine almost stalls..any ideas no body i have asked semms to know

I have an elbow that comes out of the lower thermostat housing and connects to the lower radiator hose. There is a line that runs out of the air compressor and right across the elbow. Ive already loosened the line but Im having trouble getting the elbow to clear everything that is still in the way such as the bracket that holds the top pulley which sits next to the air compressor. Surely I'm not going to need to disassmble the entire front end just to get this one small pulley screwed in. Im replacing it because I had a pin hole leak. Can anyone help me? I can describe everything needed to know including part numbers and schematics. and even photos. Im getting desperate here.

Just replaced front left wheel bearings for a previous noise (grinding like) problem... it fixed it for a week (150 miles), now it's making a humming noise... it gets loudest at 40 MPH...
Could it be a cheap after-market brand bearing causing it? made in China, for O'Reilly's Parts Store...

is the linkage bad are what ps help

week. was told to clean wires on starter. thats what computer came up with. checked for fuel and spark and have both. new battery so cranks fine.

While working on my mazda the accelerator cable came off the accelerator I put the cable back in the slot at the top of the accelerator. Does it nnnd anything else done to secure it.
thank you

Any way runs rough when cold worms up smoths out but still has small miss like carb. With no choke

I was driving down the road headed home when I noticed a light sounding knocking noise that knocked faster when I sped up and slowed when I slowed down. At home I put my truck in neutral and revved up the motor and the knocking noise went up with my rpms. It seems to becoming from around flywheel, clutch, pressure plate area. It has a brand New flywheel and pressure plate they were replaced about a month ago and everything has been running smoothly besides it grinds shifting into 2 gear which started right after I replaced everything. Any ideas? Also if it helps diagnose the issue the slave cylinder has been replaced 4 times in 3 years. Once with me and 3 times with the previous owner

I am a Saturday mechanic. My truck has been on the fritz for a few months now so I let it sit for about 3 months with not starting it.

I had problems with my truck running rough and a cylinder misfire. I replaced the dist. cap and plugs and cables but still giving a misfire. I also had chocolate milk in my oil which I believed was a leaking head gasket. I put a fresh oil change in and still problems.

Today I decided to work on it 3 months later. I was planning on using Blue Devil head gasket sealer. First I did a radiator flush with prestone flushing agent and water. After 30 minutes of driving it around and letting the engine reach temperature, the truck is running like the day I bought it. No more white smoke, no water in my tailpipe, no idling rough, no misfire, and no check engine light. Was this a cure? or am I just driving a ticking time bomb?

I plan on taking out the water and flushing agent and filling it back up with 50/50 solution later on today.