GMC Jimmy Questions

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1993 GMC Jimmy SLS 4X4
94k original miles

Just put in new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, new fuel filter, coolant temp sensor and switch, and a few more things. Can't figure out why I am having an idle only issue/misfire. Also pop noise from tailpipe.

Hello, I am at my wits end tearing my hair out over this. Been a mechanic for quite a few years now but i cant seem to figure this one out. Its my personal vehicle and time is limited to get it finished.
I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy 4.3
It has come a long ways since i first purchased it but theres something left i cant seem to figure out on my own. It didnt run when i got it, however with alot of work its going now.
So far i have replaced:
-Spark plugs and wires. (Plugs AC Delco / Wires i believe are house brand since they were out of the ACDelco brand wires)
- Cap and rotor (both AC Delco)
- Fuel pump
- PCV valve
- Intake Airtemp Sensor
- Catalytic Converter
- Water pump
- Cleaned the MAF very well and it works properly.
- Few other things...
I will note that when i got it, it had a blown head gasket. However i fixed that with two seperate rounds of Blue Devil Head Gasket sealer. One time to fix it, and the second time just to be sure.

Problem is that i cant get it registered because i cant get the check engine light to go off. only thing left that comes up varies. Sometimes its either a P0300 (multiple cyl mifsire), or a P0302 (Cyl #2 misfire). But never at the same time, its always one or the other.
The Check engine light stays on solid, but then when i get up to around 30 to 40 mph the light will start flashing. I am leaning towards it possibly being the Spider fuel injector malfunctioning? Besides that the damn thing runs perfect and you ould never know anything was wrong!
Any help or input would be much appreciated thank you!

makes a loud popping noise what could it be?

My Jimmy starts most of the time but at least 3x a week it's a hard start.Once I get it started it runs fine all day. It just does it in the am. Someone told me it was the spider in the manifold. What should I do.

My body is all beat up

car turned off after driving about ten miles with no water in it we put water after pushing it to the side of the road and it was bumpy the whole way home. now i cant drive it because it keeps stalling on me what is wrong with my car???

happens only on hot start up. mass flow good, plugs good, runs good otherwise

when I put it down the whole front end. What could it be.

& makes a strange slipping noise when i hit the brakes hard ---ABSdoesnt seem to engage , i have replaced all pads & master cylnder and booster allready any help or advise whould help

Problem ongoing for about a year and ½ and only after heavy rain. Not throwing codes, all dash lights and security check work like they are supposed to. Covering the hood during rain seems to prevent the problem.(I have some minor front end damage that may be allowing rain to enter where it shouldn't). One of my low beam headlights doesn't work, so I've been just using the high beams...Hi-Def bulbs are $$$ and that is what the shop recommended). The only other light that's out is the right side license plate light.

Tired of shops wanting to throw parts at it when they can't figure it out, nor can I afford to, so picked up a test light, a DMM, signed up for Alldatadiy, and started keeping good notes and have been researching this myself. Trying to keep this short, but have a lot of info that I could share if needed. I have replaced the battery and the cap and rotor recently, but problem continues.
I''ve focused on checking fuses when this happens, but most sites aren't clear/specific on what the readings mean & I haven't focused on relays yet.

The next time it wouldn't st art after rain I checked fuses in the engine fuse block with the test light to negative on battery and noticed these didn't lite it, until it dried out & started....then they did light it..
TRL TRN, TRR TRN, TRL B/U, VEH B/U, ECM1, ENG1, B/U LP, OXYSEN, and IGN E (not sure about BTSI fuse – missed that).
(It began starting again before I could check the Body fuse block in side of dash...Did check those when it was starting and all were fine).
The only fuse I've ever had to change was the one for the cigarette lighter/Obd2 port, but that hasn't gone out since replaced about 4 mths ago.

I notice that the schematic on Alldata shows the ECM1, ENG1, B/U LP and IGNE all in the bottom row on the “IGN RUN & Start BUS BAR Schematic. These fuses all show nothing on my DMM when it won't start, but battery voltage when it drys and starts. From what I've read, these will prevent spark at the coil, and I think the fuel pump too. Is there something I could check that would affect all of these fuses? I don't think it's the security, since the light on dash does as it should.
Thanks for any help I can get!

I replaced the fuel filter and pump 8 months ago. I replaced the plugs and wires 3 months ago. PCV and EGR recently replaced. Today I installed the spider injector assembly. The truck still acts like it is fighting for fuel. It stalled out on me while driving and idling. When I have been able to rev it up, it sounds strong, but when put in gear it is sluggish. I also replaced the fuel filter again today thinking that it must have been dirty. I also noticed condensation in the throttle body. I'm stumped and going broke trying to find the problem. Any advice?

After driving several miles, the light comes on and usually stays on until the engine is shut down. At restart, the whole process takes place again. Is this an ABS sensor problem or something else. What repairs need to be considered? Thanks

Termed on stick. Red oil started running out above middle to right side above right wheel. Pouring. What is causing this

I have a hole in the top of my oil pan that I can't repair so I need it replaced. I'm getting rid of this car on the near future so I'm not wanting to sink much $ into it.

battery light flashes on and off and will die overnight. Replaced battery and it is still doing this. took to advance auto and got readings of: starter test voltage 11.17v, amps 0.0a time 937ms. Charging syster test no problems : no load 14.64v and loaded 14.66vwith ripple at 38mv. However; it says to replace battery; voltage 12.87v measured: 538cca, rated d50cca and temp was 110f. New Alt and new battery???????

My 98 engine overheated and I tried to save it. I have a 2000 jimmy 4x4 engine that looks almost the same but will it fit in my 98?

I been told I have to remove the entire dash also been told to cut a small hole in the plastic glove box an it is located behind there. and yet when I turn the temperature to cool I hear a clicking sound located below the glove box on the passenger side, I have the actuator, but where the factory one is located I can not find any location in Chilton's manual or any other manual.