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I have having trouble locating this part on my vehicle. Can you help me locate it?

When the check engine was on it gave me a code (410). I needed to get my catalyc converter fixed due to air escapeing a defected pipe. I had the pipe repaired but not the catalyc converter itself. My check engine light did go off but now my monitors will not clear, How can I clear them?

When i first noticed the problem it would finaly work if i kept pushing the button but now it wont work at all.

I have had this issue checked 3 times so far and again the check engine light came back on after having the issue "fixed" by the dealership. They said it was a faulty part at first. What the heck is going on here. I just purchased the truck 3 weeks ago?

Trying to find the coolant sensor on a 95 Volvo 850 2.4 engine

burning oil

Also the fuel gauge and speedometer with flucuate. The running of the truck doesnt change just the above is noted.

just ahose on each side with what looks like compreesed fitings that slide on to fuel filter how do they come off

and after some few seconds it picks ups again.what may be the cause

Car has 97,000 miles on it. Last week, the oil pressure light went on. Checked the oil and it was dry - just had the oil changed 2,500 miles ago. Have not had any leaks, nothing pooling on the garage floor. I am guessing the oil is burning through the turbo, but don't know for sure. I put 3 qts of oil in it and have been checking every other day, and have not seen any oil loss as of yet.

This is the second time this has happened. The first time happened when it was overdue for an oil change. Now it seems to be a bigger issue.

I don't believe there is any damage to the engine, but do not know for sure. Not sure what else could be the problem.

If it is my turbo, how much will it cost to fix?

My HONDA 2008 CRV has only 30,000 miles but battery drains after sitting in the driveway for the night. I took it to MIDAS and they said that is not mechanical (the starter is fine). They said it is electrical. Has anyone experienced this?

thank you very much will stay in touch













The gears shift very easily upon start-up. As the engine gets warm shifting becomes harder. When the ambient air is hot the shifting gets harder faster. Mechanic sprayed rusted linkage but had no change. Put the gear shift in 1st let clutch out with brake on and engine stops dead. Repeated this in every gear with same results. Clutch is not slipping. The car has 117000 miles on it. I do hear a little clutch noise when the car is first started and the clutch is out and the shifter in neutral.

Truck vibrates in front end at 70-75 miles per hour. Just driving does not vibrate when breaking. I have had the breaks checked and they are fine as well as had front aligned. What would cause this? Only vibrates it feels like in front end at this speed. I have had tires balanced and rotated.

My colleague told me to change `Bearing hub assembly' for both sides (driver and passenger). Is it correct?
It cost $167 for two and how much should I pay for replacing the hubs. One of local mechanic said he would charge $150 for both.
Please advise
Thanks