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When you reach 50 mph there is a noise that sounds like the speedometer cable binding up.
During the recent hot weather experienced in the Sacramento, California area, (upper 90s, low 100s), my Mercedes-Benz ML350 began cranking, but not starting. After letting the vehicle sit, (sometime for about an hour after it failed to start), the vehicle would then start. It cranked fine each time, but just didn't appear to be getting fuel. Talked to a local Mercedes-only repair shop owner that had recently retired and closed his shop. He suspected either the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) or fuel pump issue. Because his shop closed, I took it to a trusted mechanic, who advised that he'd experienced quite a bit of this lately on Mercedes' and found each of those to be the CPS. Replaced the CPS and all was fine for a day. Next day, it failed to start again. Returned to the shop where he discovered he then wasn't getting fuel to the engine and replaced the pump, after putting the old CPS back in. He advised that it started fine during all his tests, drove it, shut it down, came back later, no issues. Upon picking up the vehicle, (shop was already closed), it didn't initially start. After a few attempts it did. Failed to start the next day so informed him, and he suggested taking it to Mercedes. He also advised that each time he bypassed the fuel pump relay, the vehicle would start each time. Oddly, he stated there wasn't such a relay to replace in the vehicle. Took it to the dealer who I advised of all the foregoing so we didn't have to go through all of this again. Dealer had the vehicle 4 days and kept telling me they were waiting for the vehicle to fail. Upon advising I was just going to come pick the vehicle up, they concluded it was an "M.E." module that needed to be replaced and that it would cost $2200 out the door! They stated that the module must be faulty since the vehicle wasn't getting fuel. I explained about the fuel pump relay bypass and they said that yes, that would work. I asked if they checked to verify that the relay wasn't faulty, they said there's no way to check it. I asked if the ME module produced any error codes or other indications that it wasn't putting out voltage at the point of failure. They said the module doesn't do that, because it doesn't monitor those actions. I asked if they tested for current or voltage at the input to the relay at the point of failure and they simply stated that the module was faulty. I then asked that they simply replace the relay and fuel filter and I'll take responsibility for that. They told me it wouldn't solve my problem and wasn't what their technician arrived at, instead opting to sell me on the $2200 repair. I asked what the process was, if that didn't solve my problem. They said, "they'd have to make it right, as they provide a 2-year warranty on the repair". I asked exactly what that meant in terms of me paying $2200 and my vehicle still displayed the same condition? He said worst case, I "might be able to get SOME of my money back" and that there may be additional costs if other issues were found. Got the vehicle back and out of 5 start attempts, it failed once. So, the issue still exists. I'm trying to find out, if there is a fuel pump relay and if so, where exactly it sits in the fuse panel, what its part number is and if it's a pluggable device I can just put in myself to test "my theory" that the relay is faulty, before agreeing to a $2200 repair that I'm not convinced is my issue. There's no particular frequency or condition under which the startup fails. It occurs more often after it started successfully, the vehicle has been driven and sits, off, for a while. Additionally, upon trying to start it, at the time it fails, if I release the key, the vehicle does continue to crank briefly then stops. I'm okay with accepting the "M.E." unit as faulty, after I know the devices in the path, (relay, wiring, connections) aren't faulty. To my knowledge, based on my conversation with the service manager at Mercedes and the mechanic that troubleshot the issue, these 3 items haven't been tested or eliminated. I also don't know enough about the wiring to test this all out myself. So, some honest, professional, technical input from a Mercedes-knowledgable mechanic would DEFINITELY be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
I'm trying to start my van that has been sitting for 6 months. Usually I could just put in the battery and it would start. Is it safe to put starter fluid or a little gas in the carburetor to try to start because the engine is inside the vehicle once the doghouse is off.
The heat does not come on shows hi but blows only cold air
I tried to turn off the alarm but couldn't. I finally got the car started, but I want to know what to do if it happens again
I have been having stalling and dying problems. Someone suggested to check and clean the MAF. I would if I could find it.
After getting off the highway. My 93 acura legend stopped like someone pressed hard on the breaks. It starts back up but once I put it in drive it revs up but isn't moving. Could it be the transmission.
My Mercedes c300 4matic has defective rotors. I have 45k miles and every service was done through the dealer. The front end shutters when breaking at high speeds (over 50mph). The brake pads are hardly worn. There was one other time I heard about this happening and it was with a ford, but they said it was defective since the brake pads were not worn.
I ran the air on heat mode for about a mile until I realized it, and when I switched it to cold it now only blows hot! air, it worked just fine before that
When I put my car in reverse it will go back a bit then seem like it's stuck on something. The first time it happened I even got out of my car to see if there was something under my tire to which there wasnt. Other than that the car works great. What could this be?
It turns over 6-7 times then starts rough then smoothed out and going up hills it slows down
I was driving the car with air on and all of the sudden there was a power surge and it started blowing hot air is this a fuse or relay that blew? The blower motor is working fine and I know there is freon just no cold air blowing anymore.
Its been low on radiator fluid but resivour is full and now it pours out under car as soon as I fill it also when I take radiator cap off no pressure. Running ruff and abs and brake like come on an wants to die. Oil is fine an trans fluid is fine
When I use my fog to lock the doors, all but the passenger front locks. When I open the passenger door it starts to chirp. Another problem, it does not start on the first try on a consistent basis. I can go for a week or so with no problem & then it wont' start until after 4 or 5 times of trying to turn it over.
What cause a engine to shut off without warning and want start back up nothing. It has done this twice but first time after battery it ran for 2 days.