Problem Description and Possible Solution
Debris can get into the idle air control valve. This will restrict the air flow into the engine, causing idle speed and/or stalling when cold. The valve can be cleaned or replaced to correct this concern.
Problem DataRepairPal Verified
Average mileage: 137,197 (18,300–319,000)
Engine affected: 3.0L V6
37 people reported this problem
feels like its going to cut off when in idle. Car starts shaking and have to hit the gas to keep it running. Once moving at a decent speed in drive it feels fine.
Poor idling, engine lights on as is VSC
Willnot idle. Engine dies if dont rev engine. Ok when engine gets warm. Have to power bake to drive.
Have had problems with engine running rough for a long time replaced coil packs censors now the engine idles down the brakes feel like you have none it's not the master cylinder it's like the break buster quits working and when driving if your not giving it gas it's like it's comes out of gear when you mash the gas again it jumps back into gear
idle control needed to be replaced. My car kept idling low and kept stalling. Took it the repair shop and paid $325.00 to get it fixed. Check engine light has come back on though and now it will not start at all. Headed back to the repair shop.
I continue to add a quality fuel system cleaner monthly and the problem goes away! Most of the time it would happen during the cold months, not so much the rest of the year. I would replace or clean the IACV but I have given up the back yard mechanic repairs (just don't have need to do it). If the problem gets to the point that fuel system cleaner fails to do the job the RX300 will go to the shop for replacement. Current milage is 240,000 (approx).
Would not idle and jumped around at stop lights to the point other drivers would stare at me. High dollar repair shop said it had to be replaced at $600 area. Went on line and saw where some were being cleaned. Went to another shop and they cleaned it overnight. Soaked it in cleaning fluid( build-up of carbon) and had no problems since with that part.
When cold or warm, try to start the car, the engine immediately stalls. Have to give it gas and hold it at 1,000 rpm for about 10 seconds for it to not stall.
First time had this problem what car was about three years old and still under warranty. Dealer replaced the intake air control valve (part number 22270-20050) and gasket (part number 22215-20010). They tech took 0.9 hour to perform.
Six years later, having problem again. Will try cleaning the IACV.
Several times starting, and stalling at intersections.
Very low idle, could not drive gave P1150 code.Had to replace valve.
Just had both knock sensors replaced, the thermostat and gaskets, resealed center valley plate because of a leak. Now the car is back home we are experiencing the car stalling out when you start the car. Once you let it idle for a few minutes and keep your foot on the gas it will start and go until you stop, then you go to start again the same thing happens. This was not happening prior to the engine light going on and having these repairs done!!!!
My VSC and Engine light pops on at same time. When I push the gas pedal it hesitant to take right off. Took to my mechanic he first tried reset but came back on later that day. After rechecking it came back the IAC Valve is going bad. He blowed it out good and the lights went off but said it may come back on anytime. The IAC valve need to be replaced eventually to clear the problem for good. Cost given $420 that include labor and parts but not tax. I will drive for a few weeks until I can pay to replace. Hope it works for years to come once fixed.I love my Lexus!
Car wouldn't stay "on". Had to pump the gas pedal just to get it started. Idle valve was replaced; cost me over $800 for part and labor.
Engine turns over, but will not idle. Car stalls.
Debris in idle air control valve.Something keeps causing battery to die.My battery and alternator was replaced and battery still going dead.It stopped going in reverse as well
as others said, when start cold, intermittently sounds like going to stall, so I rev gas and then seems OK. Repair shop wants to do a cleaning which sounds right from what others have said; costs seems high (~$300). Partially attributed it to using 'cheaper gas'; also recommended fuel cleaner
Car tries to restart it self after I've shut it off and removed the key drone the ignition. It also starts and then shuts off unless I hold the gas to a 3-4 rpm for a short amount of time. It will run fine after that until I put it in park then it shuts off.
I clean the IACV with carburator cleaner. Solves problem for about a year when problem starts happening again. I pretty much clean it every year.
Car would stall out shortly after starting, worse when cold. Held idle when accelerator pedal fully compressed at time of ignition, per vehicle's manual. First time fixed with a full can of SeaFoam additive with next full tank of gas, second occurrence the IACV was cleaned by my Lexus mechanic, who I'd mentioned the problem to (this is a known issue in this make and model, and any specialty mechanic worth his salt should recognize it when it occurs).
It would idle very low and make the car shudder at red lights. It was easy to clean with instructions from Club Lexus online.