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Check your brake switch. Failure of the switch will not allow the selector to move out of the Park position.
Idle air control valves are know to have high failure rates. Throttle body plates get gummed up and stick. You can try cleaning the throttle body.
A professional service center can perform a cooling system flush for you but first find the cause and repair the oil leak.
Without knowing more information it is difficult to give you a definitive answer to your question. Your strut mounts do have some wear, your springs are weaker than when they were new, your sway bar links have worn. I would generally suggest a complete strut assembly and new sway bar links, but without inspecting the vehicle I do not know.
They have trouble with the Integrated Wheel End Vacuum Solenoid.
The tire size should be on the door sticker. A good VIN decoder will give you most of the information as to the sub model of your car. Try NAPA's on line parts look-up.
Possibly have a wheel bearing or differential bearing going bad. You are probably going to need to have a technician diagnois this for you.
Around 2 hours.
I have to disagree with the other responses. Toyota wants you to have low cost of ownership for 100k miles. If they have recommendations to change the fluids before the 100k mark it ups the calculation for that figure. Toyota wants to sell you another car at 100k, not help you to maintain the car for 200k plus miles. I would suggest changing the transmission fluid at 50k, depending on how the vehicle is being used. Change your fluids and keep the car longer, it's a better financial deal in the long run.
We do see many heater cores get plugged in these cars. Disconnect the hoses from the heater core and GENTLY blow air through the core to dislodge some of the sediments. Flush clean water through the core to flush out any loose sediment. Installing a new thermostat is a good idea. It is also possible that the water pump is not circulating the coolant, but that would normally have other (overheating) symptoms.