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Question Asked: Should upper ball joint be replaced or sleeve re-adjusted if the top stud moves?
January 13, 2015, 07:23 PM
1983 K5 full size Blazer, 4X4, GM 10 bolt axle. Drivers side upper ball joint stud, and nut move back and forth 1/8th inch as the hub is lifted, and lowered. Axle is supported and wheel is removed. Can the adjuster sleeve be re-torqued to remove play, or do both upper ball joint and adjuster sleeve need to be replaced to correct this problem? Thank You for your assistance!
Question Asked: Inexpensive fix for code P0491 secondary air injection diverter valve problem!
August 11, 2014, 09:22 AM
I replaced a failed OEM diverter valve Motorcraft part number 6S43-9F491-AA (Dealer cost $180.00) with an inexpensive universal exhaust system check valve, and plugged the vacuum hose that attached to the diverter valve with a fine thread screw. I then cleared the code and did a couple drive cycles so the ECM could relearn the fuel trim and run all the monitor. All the monitors including the "AIR" monitor ran and set OK. The cost for the universal exhaust check valve, and two hose clamps from Autozone parts store, galvanized npt thread to barb hose adaptor from Ace hardware store, and screw was less than $20.00. The Ford Fusion is working great with the $20.00 replacement madification. I also replaced the brittle vacuum hose from the manifold to the vacuum switching valve that controls the diverter valve.
Question Asked: Help with diagnosing slipping clutch.
July 30, 2014, 04:54 AM
All wheel drive, manual transmission, 2.0 liter engine, 200,000 miles. Acts like the clutch is slipping especially on inclines. Ne visible fluid leaks, and the slave cylinder functions when the peddle is pressed. Peddle linkage and bracket look ok. Bled the clutch slave cylinder which helped with peddle feel and engagement, but it doesn't engage well if the clutch is let out slow. Takeoff is better if the engine is revving and the clutch is dumped. Could anything like the master cylinder, slave cylinder, transfer case or differentials also be the cause? How would I verify the clutch is needing replacement myself? Thank you for all assistance!
Question Asked: What would cause the windshield washer fluid to continue to spray?
July 22, 2014, 05:36 PM
1983 K5 blazer full size. The wipers work on low and high switch setting. When I push in on the switch for washer fluid to spray, it will spray until the wipers are turned off. If I turn the wipers back on, the washer will still spray without activating the washer. It will continue to spray until the wiper switch is cycled on and off three times then stop spraying. The wiper motor/washer pump unit has been replaced 3 times with re-manufactured units. The wiper/washer dash switch has been opened and cleaned internally. The wiring harness terminals at the firewall have been cleaned and di-electric grease applied. None of the above measures have fixed the continuous washer spray. Any ideas on testing and/or repair would be appreciated!
Question Asked: Why would left front strut rod pull out of upper strut mount.
April 28, 2014, 03:31 PM
A friend had 4 new tires installed by a tire shop and afterward noticed vehicle pulling to the side, and front end noise. Upon inspection, the strut rod and nut had pulled out of the upper mount hole (most likely when it was on the lift)and was way off center under the mount "hat". The big nut was still on the strut rod, so we jacked up the vehicle, positioned the rod back into the mount hole, and lowered the vehicle. The struts had been replaced a couple years ago with aftermarket ones. Should the threaded rod, and nut actually be attached to the upper strut mount somehow, or does it just set in the hole with room to move? Thanks for any assistance.
Question Asked: What causes OBD1 code #26 "injectors 1,2,3 peak current not reached"?
April 20, 2014, 03:43 PM
1989 Dakota Sport V6, manual trans. No fuel from injectors, have spark to plugs, Truck has old fuel in the tank from sitting for 10 years so I rigged a container with new fuel pump and fresh gas straight to throttle body, and direct off battery. Also replaced the fuel pressure regulator. I don't hear the old fuel pump still in the tank running, just the new one running continuously. Engine cranks fine and starts when primed. the three codes were #12, #26, and #55. Does this mean the two throttle body injectors are bad? I appreciate your assistance with this no start issue! Thank You!
Question Asked: Options for keys not working in doors.
April 19, 2014, 05:21 PM
When I purchases the truck used some years ago, only one well worn aftermarket key came with it. I made copies from that one, but these keys are having trouble with opening the two doors. I don't know if the truck has remote keyless entry since I did not get a remote with the purchase. The keys I have all work in the ignition, and do not have a chip. The electrically operated door locks work with the pull up knob, and door switches. The keys will lock the drivers door but won't unlock it, and will unlock the passenger door but won't lock it. I use graphite with a liquid carrier to lube these locks with no improvement in operation. What options would you recommend to fix this door lock/key issue? Can I get a code for a new key from the manufacturer using my VIN number? Thank You all for the awesome assistance you provide!!!
Question Asked: TSB's, or known fixes for engine not starting till second try?
February 28, 2014, 08:01 AM
Two wheel drive with auto trans. throttle body injection, Mileage 150,000 - idles, and runs good, no odd sounds. Cap, rotor, and wires just cleaned and less than 10 k miles old, new coolant temp sensor due to thread leak, and one connector pin discolored black, new Denso oxygen sensor, replaced loose vacuum lines, cleaned PCV valve, cleaned IAC passage, Tested EGR valve by pulling vacuum on port with engine running and engine stumbles. The fuel pump and intake manifold gasket had been replaced a few years ago. I am guessing the no start on first try is fuel system related, and has been affecting this C1500 since the truck was new according to my friend who owns the truck. Recently the truck doesn't readily start on the second try. I don't presently have a fuel pressure test set, or an OBD 1 code reader but the service engine light does come on, then go off momentarily at times. The data link connector looks like an upside down top hat. Before replacing the vacuum lines, the old oxygen sensor was black, and when replaced it was light grey. Thank you in advance for any thoughts on cause and solution.
Question Asked: Please help with no start issue 1989 dakota 3.9l throttle body injection.
January 12, 2014, 03:58 PM
The truck sat for 10 years outside, gas tank was close to empty. Installed a battery, replaced clogged air filter with new air filter, added two gallons fresh gas to tank, removed the return line from throttle body and gas shoots out for two seconds with key in run position. With the return hose reconnected, and engine cranking over, no gas spraying from the two injectors in the TB. The engine spins ok with the starter, no odd noises. Battery voltage 12.47V from bat ground to plus pins on injector connector from pcm. One neg pin pegs analog meter, and the other neg pin has no continuity with key in run position. Key on chk eng light obd1 codes are 1 space 2 space 5 space 5. The injector resistance is 0.00 for both on ohm X 1k setting. Distributor has rust on rotor rivet, and inner cap terminals, but spark is jumping from coil wire when I hold the terminal close to engine ground. Any thoughts on what to check next, or what is causing the injectors to not spray. Thank You!
Question Asked: Vibration while stopped with shifter in 3rd, possibly torque converter lockup?
October 25, 2013, 04:27 PM
Actually 1983 K5 Blazer. 300,000 miles I'd guess, 6.2l diesel, 700r4 auto transmission, Motor is military take out and Trans was rebuilt some 12 years ago by the place I purchased it from. drain and fill twice in last 4 years on transmission fluid with one quart of Lucas fluid conditioner added, recent oil change, tv cable adjusted today after repair on throttle cable connector at db2 injection pump due to excess play. The vibration has been ongoing for a few years so I replaced the TC lockup wire connector at trans due to bare connector wires touching earlier this Summer, and replaced the brake light switch also. The vibration is present after a short drive when I am at a stop light with the brake peddle depressed, but if I momentarily shift to neutral then back to 3rd the vibration goes away. A mechanic adjusted the tv cable this last summer and stated that he thought the tc is staying locked up, and also recommended a new throttle valve cable. Any thoughts on the cause and solution would be appreciated!
Question Answered: Have been hearing some engine noise under the hood
April 06, 2015, 07:15 AM
Have a mechanic listen to the water pump with a mechanics stethoscope. The water pump bearings are likely failing, and it is probably way overdue for a new timing belt, and idler pulleys! Both are behind the timing belt cover, and should be serviced at the same time. Cost should be at least $700.00 to replace all if indeed that is the issue. .
Question Answered: What are the problems I should look for when the timing belt, tension control need to be replaced?
March 09, 2015, 08:19 PM
Don't wait for symptoms to start appearing with the timing belt, have the timing belt, tensioner, idler pulleys, waterpump and thermostat replaced at the recommended time so it doesn't break and leave you stranded. The timing is adjusted by the ECM so you probably won't see any problems until it is too late.
Question Answered: 5.7 with 47K codes P171p upon warm-up and then p171 & 174p next warm-up
March 09, 2015, 08:11 PM
P0171 lean bank #1, and P0174 bank #2 indicates a problem that is affecting both left and right banks run too lean as you noted. You should look for things that would impact both banks equally such as dirty air filter, MAF sensor, a loose or cracked air tube from air cleaner to throttle body, IAC valve clogged, throttle body or intake manifold dirty, vacuum leak, plugged exhaust, ,clogged fuel filter, clogged injectors, Low voltage or bad ground to ECM, etc. Start with the simple things such as checking air tube and cleaning the IAC valve and throttle body. Then look at live data with your scanner while an assistant drives to get more clues.
Question Answered: the location of thermostat on engine of Lexus ES300
February 24, 2015, 07:27 PM
Located below the throttle body. Follow the upper radiator hose, and it will connect to a metal coolant tube, then the coolant tube connects to the thermostat.
Question Answered: what is causing the death wobble in my front end
February 10, 2015, 04:57 PM
The death wobble is usually caused by a worn out track bar especially on the earlier Dodge 4X4s with solid front axle. Check both ends of track bar for any play at all while an assistant turns the steering wheel both directions back and forth. (ENGINE OFF)
Question Answered: 1997 dodge 2500 is cut ing off
February 05, 2015, 05:41 AM
Have the crank position sensor tested.
Question Answered: Will not shift back into hi
February 05, 2015, 05:40 AM
Try shifting transfer case to 2wd high with the truck moving at a slow speed. The front axle will engage better if the truck is in motion.
Question Answered: Why is my check engine light flashing and car won't go over 30mph?
January 28, 2015, 07:54 PM
The PCM has detected a condition that will cause damage to the engine, or catalytic converter and has put the engine in limp home mode! Have a qualified mechanic check for codes stored in the PCM for further diagnosis of problem immediately. If the check engine light was steady, you could still drive, but for a flashing light, it will cause damage upon further driving!
Question Answered: p0115
January 28, 2015, 07:43 PM
Have a qualified mechanic diagnose the issue with your "engine coolant temperature circuit"=p0115!
Question Answered: Starter motor runs with key off. What could be cause relay failure?
January 23, 2015, 09:47 AM
Most likely the starter solenoid contacts are sticking, sometimes due to low battery voltage, or just usage over time.
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