Rookie cbe0621eac06868b3efe0d8d1d3611e23c60d3114864ea2ec19a68cfbd3eebabRookie
35 points
2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible 2.7 V6 Touring Platinum
Recent Activity

Question Asked: Convertible Touring Platinum The seat belt warning light continues for 2 minutes, even though the seat belt is buckled. How to fix, or how to disconnect?
May 29, 2016, 12:22 PM
Although the seat belt is properly buckled, the seat belt warning light *always* continues to ring for two minutes as if the belt is not connected. Occasionally and intermittently, the Air Bag warning light also lights, and seems to somehow be related to the constant seat belt warning problem.
Question Asked: After about 30 sec, chugs, loses power, Check Engine Light on; only 2 cylinders
March 04, 2014, 12:27 PM
Still trying to get my 1992 Ford Explorer 4.0L 4dr Auto 4WD VIN X to run properly. Here's the current situation: It starts fine, runs about 30 seconds, then chugs, loses power, and Check Engine Light comes on. What we've discovered: It is running on only 2 cylinders now. When I pull the the wires off the coil, here's what I find: Cylinders 1 and 5 do not spark at all. Cylinders 2 and 6 spark but do not fire. Cylinders 3 and 4 spark and fire. When I first got this Explorer, the engine ran fine. These problems occurred after it failed a smog test. (It probably would not have failed had anyone noticed that a 1' piece of tailpipe was missing between the catalytic converter and the exhaust pipe, which I've since installed). After making many attempts, codes were pulled but were random so I replaced O2 sensor, crankshaft position sensor, MAF, cleaned the Idle adjust sensor, replaced vacuum tubes, repaired a few broken ground wires, re-installed the 'retard timing' octane jumper. I base the cylinder numbers on this diagram: 3 4 -- sparking and firing 2 6 -- sparking, not firing 1 5 -- no sparking, no firing (Coil looking from the front) Cylinders on the engine are numbered 3 6 2 5 1 4
Question Asked: Vacuum line needs plugging in, but where?
February 06, 2014, 07:36 PM
My 1992 Ford Explorer XLT 4dr 4wd Auto 4.0 V6 has begun suddenly running rough and the check engine light comes on. It happened after I replaced the O2 sensor, when I was reaching behind the engine to get the O2 sensor wiring, and ended up pulling up that AND a vacuum tube from alongside the transmission fluid tube. Here are links to pictures. I cannot find where this vacuum tube should be plugged in. Does anyone recognize it and have suggestions about where it should be connected? [url=][img][/img][/url] [url=][img][/img][/url] [url=][img][/img][/url] [url=][img][/img][/url] [url=][img][/img][/url] [url=][img][/img][/url]
Question Asked: After changing O2 sensor, car eventually (15 mins?) quits running smoothly
February 06, 2014, 05:30 PM
Took my 1992 Ford Explorer XLT (4-door, auto 4WD, auto tran, 4.0 V6) for smog test (California) and it failed. It seemed to run fine, and indeed everything passed EXCEPT "NO (PPM)" -- Max 699, measured 2342! So, it's a "GROSS POLLUTER." (I now suspect this was caused by an unoticed missing 8" "intermediate" pipe in the exhaust system.) I'm over a barrel (very broke, NEED to get the Ford running and licensed), so the tech suggested it probably is a bad Oxygen Sensor (the primary one, before the catalytic converter). I coughed up the $50 for a new one and replaced it. After replacement, as always, the Ford ran fine ... until about 15 minutes later, while driving. Suddenly, a clunk, power drops, engine runs rough and smells of fuel, and the "check engine" light comes on. I nursed it home. The next morning, I try the Ford again. It starts, runs okay, then after about 15 minutes of idling, the same bad thing happens: sudden clunk, power loss, rough running, fuel smell, 'check engine' light. I then re-installed the original oxygen sensor, hoping to solve the problem. Now the same problem, after another day: it starts, runs, then after a few minutes, loses power, check engine light comes on, it chugs and knocks. Summary: I put in a new O2 sensor, and this problem began. I removed the new O2 sensor and put the original one back in, and the problem continues. BEFORE I changed any O2 sensor, the vehicle ran good and was reliable. Anyone have any idea what I probably did wrong, and how to fix it? Could it have something to do with the computer not recognizing the sensor?
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