MShaw

Technician
111 points
Shop Owner last 4 yrs of mobile auto repair/service company. Have been thru the mill, starting as oil change boy in '74, worked at dealers & independents over last 38 yrs (has it been that long?). ASE Cert Mast w/ L1 Cert.
Recent Activity

Question Asked: This is aimed at some shop out there that still has OLD labor time guides...
August 25, 2012, 10:54 AM
Ignore the veh listed. Need FRH's for oil pump & starter, as independent jobs, on 76 Eldorado, a/t, a/c, 8.0L. Thanks.
Question Answered: Shifting problems
November 09, 2015, 05:36 AM
dirty fluid, plugged trans oil filter, locked shift solenoids, faulty front pump... I could go on. Change your fluid and filter first and see how it goes.
Question Answered: What would be the major problem for car from starting when it ran befor problem
November 09, 2015, 05:32 AM
Did the dash lights illuminate (ie: ABS light, check engine light, oil light, etc) when the key was turned to the "on" position? If not, probably a battery or connection issue. If on, then when key turned to "start" position did the starter engage (make the engine turn over), do nothing, or did you only hear a 'click' sound? If the engine turned, probably a fuel or ignition prob. If not, may still be a battery or connection issue. Check battery terminals for tightness/corrosion & clean/tighten as needed. If no change, and you think it's a battery issue, prob a poor ground connection (engine-frame or battery-frame). After that, may be starter, switch or wiring issues.
Question Answered: Would the camshaft sensor be affected if the car was ran low on oil?
November 09, 2015, 05:25 AM
Actually sounds like you have internal engine damage if it's knocking. the cam sensor code sets because there is something loose inside the engine creating a slight deviation in the synch between the crank speed and the cam speed.
Question Answered: leak from differential.
November 09, 2015, 05:22 AM
I'm not sure if you're asking if you have a front pinion seal leak or an axle seal leak; two entirely different things. My suggestion would be to take a couple cans of brake parts cleaner and clean off the excess, put the vehicle on a lift, or on jack stands, and run it in gear for a few minutes (in gear at idle should be sufficient if it's a major leak) to find where the fluid comes out. If not a major leak, may need to clean it off then go for a drive for 30 min and re-check.
Question Answered: Lift gate has been unlocked for years then all of a sudden it locks can't unlock
November 09, 2015, 05:15 AM
My guess would be the plastic end connector for the lock rod (inside the door) has failed, allowing the rod to swing down and create a 'locked' condition.
Question Answered: Still cant get the speedometer to work.
November 09, 2015, 05:11 AM
Can we back up for just a sec... Was your ABS failure light on when the speedo wasn't working? If not, neither the rear end ABS sensor, nor any front wheel ABS sensor, is at fault. You said you replaced the sensor on the tail of the trans. Did you check the wiring there for power and ground first? Our shop has had the misfortune of chasing a similar issue on a 97 model Ram 1500 only to find the ECM at fault; rare to replace a computer, but it happens.
Question Answered: What do I change next? Car just stopped while driving
November 09, 2015, 05:03 AM
I'm going from memory here, but I believe your engine has something called a Mass Air Flow sensor at the air filter housing. Disconnect that and see if it changes the idle issue. If yes, replace sensor. If not, you may want to check the throttle plate itself for carbon build-up. The engine is designed to have a certain amount of air flow, even with the plate in the closed position; carbon on the plate edge reduces that air flow and may cause a no-idle issue. The carbon can be cleaned with an old toothbrush and carb cleaner. There's a possibility of a Throttle Position sensor issue, but try the other two first.
Question Answered: Thanks for your help... I have a 1990 toyota truck, won't start, losses power
August 26, 2012, 08:22 PM
My first guess would be your fuel pump is failing. It can be difficult to check fuel pressures w/o the right tools - and dangerous to try to check for fuel w/o the tool. It's also possible the fuel filter may be restricted. If you want to replace the filter first, might be a good idea - its fairly easy to do and the part is inexpensive.
Question Answered: Justhad 2000 Intrepid detailed, including engine shampoo. however, when the
August 26, 2012, 08:16 PM
The first question is, do you have a "check engine" light on? If so, have you gone to someplace to have the code(s) read? If so, what were they? Moving forward not knowing the answers to those questions, I wil tell you my "best guess". Best guess would be you have small cracks in your spark plug wires, water got into the wire(s) under the insulation, and its misfiring due to inability to carry higher voltage loads under acceleration & at higher engine RPM's. Sometimes they dry out on their own - takes a couple days - sometimes they don't. If not, you'll have to replace the wires. Vacuum lines that are disconnected/broken usually cause a slightly higher idle, if the hose was small; the engine would not start/die if it was a bigger hose.
Question Answered: WHen I first tried to start my car this morning I turned it over and none of the
August 26, 2012, 08:05 PM
I know ziptie responded first, and if I'm stepping on toes, due to some kind of protocal, I apologize, but I figured getting the 'customer' (what is a good term for folks with problems we try to assist on here?) taken car of was the priority. Based upon your answer to ziptie, and I believe they may agree, it sounds as though your ignition switch needs replaced. If there's some kind of "follow-up" you get to fill out later, give ziptie the credit.
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M Shaw's Shops