CheesyID

Technician
104 points
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Question Answered: transmission not shifting properly
February 01, 2011, 08:14 PM
With an unknown history, that would be a good place to start. I have had this help other auto trans vehicles I have owned...
Question Answered: low or no oil pressure
February 01, 2011, 08:13 PM
I have a 2004 with the same engine, but fewer miles. I have read in many sources that the designed-in life expectancy for the engine was 150,000 miles.....
Question Answered: engine maintenance
February 01, 2011, 07:56 PM
The 4.7 in the Ram (at least for 2004 model year like I have also) calls for copper spark plugs only, that need to be replaced every 30,000 miles. It's easy and I did it myself in about 90 minutes. I have read mutiple threads that warn NOT to use anything else, as does the owners manual, no platinum, etc. I don't know why, my aunt's 2004 Jeep with the same engine DOES use platinum plugs. All eight copper plugs were $12 at the dealer. I only have 31,000 miles on my 2004 but every time it moves it is hauling something or pulling an enclosed trailer or a landscape trailer for a property company. I just changed both diffs, the transfer case, transmission, and coolant out for the first time, going by age over mileage. I would think these should be done every 40,000-60,000 miles, though the manual says the coolant can go 60 months or 100,000 miles I think. I change oil and filter every 5,000 miles or about once a year, and use Mobil 1 5w30.
Question Answered: 4x4 indicator light will not come on
February 01, 2011, 07:42 PM
My 2004 Ram 1500 just started having no indicator light either, but the 4WD works fine. The owners manual says nothing about lack of a light being a warning of any sort. There is a separate "SERVICE 4WD" light that warns of a problem. So, I think I am going to ignore the lack of a light.....
Question Answered: Cabin Air Filter
January 31, 2011, 05:02 PM
I have a 2000 S500. There are four cabin filters total, two fresh air, and two charcoal filters. They are accessed be removing the trim panel under the passenger side of the dash, the plastic panel up under the dash past the carpet trim under the glove compartment door. The charcoal filters are behind one door, and the fresh air filters behind another. You have a W220 chassis. If you google "w220 cabin filter replacement" or something similar you will find lots of good instructions from do-it-yourselfers.
Problem Reported: Front Door Seals Tear Due to Interference From Door Sheetmetal
February 01, 2011, 07:35 PM
<p>The drip rail door seal may become torn form contact with the lower A-piller. A revised secondary door seal is available to correct this concern. This is not a recall but a <a id="ce_10733" class="ct_selected" href="/technical-service-bulletin-or-recall">technical service bulletin</a> (TSB) which means the failed part will be replaced at the customers expense once the warranty has expired.</p>
Problem Reported: Exhaust manifolds crack and make loud noise on acceleration
February 01, 2011, 05:56 AM
<p>It is not uncommon one or both of the exhaust manifolds to crack resulting in an exhaust leak. Symptoms will begin as a ticking type noise noted on&nbsp;acceleration&nbsp;when the engine is cold.</p>
Problem Reported: Water Leak Due to Faulty Rear Window Seal
September 15, 2010, 10:09 PM
<p>On some models a void in the rear window seal may cause a water leak. Water may be present on or under the carpet. The seal will need to be replaced if that is the source.</p>
Problem Reported: Analog Tele Aid Units Are no Longer Supported
September 15, 2010, 10:08 PM
<p>Analog Tele Aid units are no longer supported and must be updated to digital, preferably at a dealership or a well-equipped independent shop. The update and all related factors should be completed at the same time.</p>
Problem Reported: Engine Performance Problems Due to Crankshaft Position Sensor Failure
September 15, 2010, 10:08 PM
<p>The <a class="ct_glossary tooltip" href="/crankshaft-position-sensor"><span class="ct_glossary tooltip">crankshaft position sensor</span></a> may fail. Symptoms of this are: The engine will crank&mdash;but not start&mdash;especially when the engine is warm. The car may start again if it is left to cool off, but it may run roughly or have poor performance.</p>
Problem Reported: Wire Connector on Transmission May Leak Fluid and Damage Control Module
September 15, 2010, 10:08 PM
<p>The electrical connector at the automatic transmission may leak fluid. Over time leaking fluid could migrate through the wiring harness and damage the transmission control module. If that happens a new harness and control module may be necessary to correct the problem.</p>
Problem Reported: Oil May Leak From PCV Vent Housings and Inspection Plates
September 15, 2010, 10:08 PM
<p>An engine <span class="ct_glossary tooltip">Oil</span> leak may develop from the <a id="ce_93" class="ct_glossary tooltip" href="/pcv-valve">PCV</a> vent housing on the valve cover and/or the inspection plate on the front of the engine.</p>
Problem Reported: Evaporator Temperature Sensor Failure
September 15, 2010, 10:07 PM
<p>The evaporator temperature sensor can fail, causing the <a id="ce_3" class="ct_glossary tooltip" href="/air-conditioning-compressor">AC compressor</a> not to cycle. If the AC compressor does not turn on, the <a id="ce_8277" class="ct_info tooltip" href="/heating-ac">AC system</a> will not blow cold air. If the compressor is stuck on, the air will be very cold at first, before warming up.</p>
Problem Reported: Flush Brake Fluid Every Two Years
September 15, 2010, 10:06 PM
<p><span class="ct_glossary tooltip">As brake fluid becomes dirty over time, it can cause a failure of </span><span class="ct_glossary tooltip">the <a id="ce_9706" class="ct_selected tooltip" href="/anti-lock-brake-system">anti-lock brake system</a> (ABS) modulator assembly. Our technicians recommend a complete brake system <a id="ce_5534" class="ct_selected tooltip" href="/brake-fluid-replacement">flush</a> </span>every two years to help prevent this issue.</p>
Problem Reported: Replace Brake Rotors When Pads are Worn and Squeaking
September 15, 2010, 10:06 PM
<p>The brakes may begin to squeak at about the 50 percent wear point. This is due to the size and material used for the brake <a id="ce_5550" class="ct_glossary tooltip" href="/brake-pads">pads</a> and <a id="ce_5551" class="ct_glossary tooltip" href="/brake-rotor">rotors</a>.&nbsp; The <span class="ct_glossary tooltip">brake rotor</span> surfaces become uneven, causing a lip to form at the outer edge. This will generally require replacement of the rotors when the <span class="ct_glossary tooltip">pads</span> are worn (pad life varies depending on driving style and terrain).</p>
Car Review: 2004 Dodge Ram 1500
February 01, 2011, 08:06 PM
2004 Ram 1500 4x4 quad cab SLT, white with grey interior, 4.7 and 5 speed auto, original owner, only 31,000 miles but they are hard miles pulling or hauling something every mile. I pull an enclosed trailer, a 22 foot boat and a landscape trailer with it. No problems, very quiet and comfortable, dirt cheap to run and maintain except for the gas mleage of course. I probably could have used a 2500 diesel to also properly snowplow with, but the maintenance and purchase cost was so much higher it wasn't worth it to me. It sits outside and I wash it a few times a year but always pressure wash off the underside right away after any salt. I don't recall ever waxing it. It looks new and gets COMPLIMENTS from strangers which always surprises me, it's not lifted or chromed out, it's just a clean 7 year old truck. People just seem to like them.
Car Review: 2000 Mercedes-Benz S500
February 01, 2011, 06:42 AM
I have a 2000 S 500 with 91,000 miles. I am the second owner and have owned it for 3 years and about half it's mileage. It has been a great car. This body style, built from 2000-2006, gets an unfair bad rap in many online forums. The early models especially 2000-2002) are cited as being unreliable. Mine is very early, being built in May 1999 and sold new in July 1999. It has not been without repairs at all, but they are consistent with what I would expect from a car now almost 12 years off the production line, and it has been less troublesome than the 1997 S Class I had before it. The key to this body style is to find one with the fewest owners and the most maintenance records you can afford. I have the records since new and the car still looks new, despite the abuse three kids and no garage can inflict. If you like to do your own routine maintenance like I do, fluids, oil, fuel & air filters, spark plugs, cabin filters, crank and cam position sensors, and the serpentine belt are all very easy to access. If you don't want to do this, find a GOOD independent shop if you have one locally that will probably charge half as much per hour of labor over the dealer, but still use MB parts. Stay away from independent shops that claim to work on Mercedes but don't have any satisfied customers you can talk to. Change the coolant every three years and the brake fluid every two. Use only synthetic oil and ignore the dash indicator saying you can go 10-12,000 miles, change it every 7,500. Replace the transmission fluid every 40,000 miles or so, do not leave it it permanently like Mercedes initially claimed you could.
Car Review: 2005 Infiniti QX56
February 01, 2011, 06:19 AM
I have a 2005 I bought new. It now has 98,000 miles. We have pulled a 32 foot travel trailer up to NY state and down to Florida multiple times. It has been a very good vehicle and we are very happy with it. The only significant problems we had were cracked exhaust manifolds and front brake warping, which were all fixed under warranty and improved or corrected on later model years. Despite the abuse three kids, two dogs, and no garage can inflict, it still looks new inside and out. It burns no oil between 7,500 mile changes. I have always used Mobil 1 5w30. Gas mileage is not great but it will get 20 mpg on the highway without the trailer. My soon to be teen drivers argue over who will get to drive it, they still love it.
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