1997 Toyota 4Runner Problems
RepairPal has identified the most common problems with the 1997 Toyota 4Runner based on complaints from actual vehicle owners. We'll tell you what the problem is and what it'll take to fix it.
At 125,000-150,000 miles, the Master Cylinder may need replacing. It is critical to adjust the brake pedal to Master Cylinder pushrod clearance or the brakes will drag and over heat.
The Throttle Position Sensor can get out of adjustment due to wear in the throttle body or due to carbon build up. This will cause the idle timing to advance more than 30 degrees which will cause very high HC and NOx emissions. Conversely, the Throttle Position Sensors can wear out and not properly advance the timing which causes a lack of power and poor fuel economy.
The 1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner with the automatic transmission may develop an issue which is commonly known as the "strawberry milkshake".
The name is based on the color and consistency of the fluid found in the coolant reservoir, transmission, and radiator.
The radiator on these models has an isolated portion for cooling automatic transmission fluid(ATF) that is pumped in and out by the transmission. This area of the radiator is known to rupture internally, and the following occurs:
- Transmission overheating warning light
- Transmission slipping (engine revs high and vehicle moves slowly)
- Engine overheating
- ATF and engine coolant mix in the radiator, engine, and transmission
Engine coolant in the transmission can cause severe damage, and if not caught immediately may require replacement or rebuild of the automatic transmission.
To correct the situation, the radiator must be replaced, and the engine cooling system must be flushed thoroughly. Also, the transmission will need to be professionally flushed, inspected, and possibly repaired or replaced.
To prevent this from occurring, proactive replacement of the radiator is necessary and recommended.
Loud rattling or loud slapping may be heard from the engine on the 1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner with the 2.7L I4 engine.
These noises has two known causes: a failed balance shaft bearing, and a failed timing chain tensioner.
The balance shaft, also known as the counter rotating assembly, is installed to reduce engine vibration, and counter the rotational force of the crankshaft and camshafts. When the bearing fails, it will rattle loudly, and the timing chain will produce a metallic slapping noise. The rattle has been described as shaking a can of marbles.
The timing chain tensioner is also known to fail, allowing the timing chain to contact the timing chain housing. This produces a metallic slapping noise coming from the front of the engine, but there is no "can of marbles" sound associated. This would not indicate balance shaft failure, but the timing chain may need to be replaced.
To repair these issues inspection of the entire timing chain system will be necessary, and replacement of the timing chain, timing chain guides, balance shafts, timing chain tensioner, and associated seals may be necessary.
Avoiding these issues may be possible by early oil changes, and using the factory specified engine oil.
Vehicles equipped with rear passenger heating may have issues with the engine coolant lines that supply warm coolant to the rear heater.
These lines frequently leak, causing engine overheating and coolant dripping on or around the passenger side rear wheel.
To correct the leak, the hoses must be replaced.
To prevent the leak, the coolant should be flushed and replaced every 24-36 months.
The Toyota 4Runner with the 2.7L I4 engine has a known issue with the valves that if left unchecked, will cause burned valves and engine performance issues.
The engine ‘breathes’ through valves that are pushed open by the camshaft, and closed by springs. When valves are closed, they seal against a valve seat. In this vehicle, the valve seat is too soft, so after the valve contacts it thousands of times, it becomes crushed. Once it is crushed, the valve can no longer make a proper seal, and the valves erode due to extreme temperature (burnt valve).
Symptoms related to this issue:
- Rough idle
- Backfiring through exhaust or intake
- Illumination of the check engine light
- OBD Trouble Codes P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304
- Loss of power
- Engine Stalling
To repair the burnt valves, the cylinder head must be removed and rebuilt, which is a costly internal engine repair, however, this issue can be prevented through inspection and adjustment of valve clearances every 40,000 miles.
Owners frequently complain of leaking rear axle seals, which leaves gear oil on the inside of the rear tires and on the ground near the wheels.
The leaky seals allow gear oil to drip onto the rear brakes, and anti-lock brake (ABS) speed sensors causing poor braking and illumination of the ABS and Traction Control lights.
The correction is to replace the axle shaft seals, and clean all brake components in the rear of the vehicle. Replacement of wheel speed sensors has been necessary if the issue was unresolved for extended periods of time.
The EGR System tends to get restricted or blocked with carbon after 100,000- 125,000 miles which will cause an emissions test failure for NOX. If the EGR system is equipped with an EGR temperature sensor it will trigger a Check Engine Light for improper EGR flow. The repair is to clean out the EGR passages and the EGR Temperature sensor. Our technicians tell this repair is pretty straight forward and takes about 1-1.5 hours. It is also wise to verify the EGR system components i.e. the Transducer, EGR Valve and VSV Solenoid at this time.
At higher mileages, an anti-lock brake system wheel speed sensor may wear out and illuminate the ABS warning light. It is recommended to replace the sensor with a factory part and be sure to clean all rust and debris from the mounting area because the mounting distance is critical. Failure to do so may result in the new sensor setting false trouble codes. Be sure to check the condition and runout of the front wheel bearings on the 2WD and 4WD vehicles and the CV joints on the 4WD vehicles since worn wheel bearings and/or CV joints can cause the ABS trigger rings to rub against the ABS sensors and damage them.
If the car will not start, the most likely problem is worn or corroded solenoid contacts in the starter. Usually, these parts can be replaced without purchasing a new starter.